How can you tell how good a restaurant is based on sampling just a handful of dishes from a menu?
What if you luckily pick all the best dishes? Or, even worse, you choose all the duds.
It’s a question that is particularly pertinent in the case of Golden Corner, a city centre Chinese restaurant with a menu of biblical proportions spanning from anglicised Cantonese classics (e.g. sweet & sour pork) to obscure regional Chinese dishes (e.g. Szechuan pig blood & bean sprouts in hot soup).
Crisp and grease-free prawn crackers (£0) and a refreshing pint of Cobra (£3.95) were hoovered up whilst we struggled to decipher the menu's vast selection. Thankfully, there are accompanying pictures to guide you through the more mysterious dishes. In the end, we played it pretty safe.
Salt and pepper spare ribs (£6.80), tossed with mixed chillies and onions, were ultra-crisp, tender and well-seasoned.
BBQ roast pork buns (£3.50) were comfortingly soft and filled with a sweet and sticky pork mix.
For mains, a Cantonese roast meat mix (£8.80) contained generous portions of crisp pork belly, char sui pork and roast duck drizzled with a sweet and deeply-savoury sauce. It didn’t hit the same level as Birmingham’s New Sum Ye, but that’s a very high benchmark indeed.
The other main, a sizzling beef fillet hot plate (£7.80) lived up to its description as it spewed chilli oil onto the table. Soft meat, bitter peppers, onions and a good kick of chilli and ginger combined to make a very good dish.
A bowl of egg-fried rice (£3) was delightfully fluffy.
Last but not least, a complimentary plate of orange and melon helped ease the carbo-protein bloats.
On the basis of our selection of dishes, Golden Corner is a very good restaurant. However, it’ll take me a lifetime to work my way through every single dish to give you a definitive judgment.
Address - Golden Corner, 23 Churchill Way, Cardiff CF10 2HE
Telephone - 029 2023 2769