“Each
new recipe may be likened to the discovery of a new continent. Science is there
not only to guide us but also to help us exercise our innate capacities for
discovery and invention.”
Herve
This, Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the
Science of Flavor
In the case of chocolate orange chicken
tikka, I believe it’s a continent which would have been best left
undiscovered.
At its best, the principles of molecular
gastronomy introduce the palette to unexpected and new flavour combinations,
textures, smells and sights.
At its worst, it’s the tailor for the
emperor’s new clothes, resulting in dishes which are gimmicky, pretentious and
detract from the quality of the component ingredients.
Moksh is the brainchild of
Chef Stephen Gomez. His multi-award winning restaurant (Good Curry Guide – Chef
of the Year 07/08 + 08/09) recently re-launched its menu with the proud
acclimation that they’re the first Indian restaurant in the UK to use the
principles of molecular gastronomy.
So, are the experiments carried out in the
kitchens of Moksh Nobel prize winning?
Our table at Moksh was booked for 6:30pm on
a Thursday. We were the first customers to arrive at the rather funky, graffiti
adorned, amber coloured restaurant. Within an hour it was a full house.
Whilst we waited for our friends, we got
cracking on some excellent poppadoms and chutney.
An interesting amuse-bouche of crisp deep
fried bread sticks and a subtle pot of green tea jam raised my hopes about the
weird and wonderful sounding dishes on the menu (it’s worth noting that there
are a host of more traditional Indian dishes on Moksh’s menu, but I was there for molecular gastronomy)
However, a shot glass of a “palette
cleanser” was indistinct in flavour (mixed spices and menthol?) and unappealingly
fluorescent in appearance due to the glassware in which it was served.
To start, I couldn’t resist the Moksh
Delight (£6.30) as it gave me the opportunity to sample a selection of the more
unique sounding first courses.
A piece of tender pork served in a mild
tomato based curry sauce was spoilt by a rice paper wrapper which clagged as
soon it hit the tongue. Naming issues aside, a Hyderabadi mince cupcake was a
very good Indian take on Shepherd’s pie; spiced mince, smooth mash and a
beetroot foam all complimented each other well. Lastly, chocolate orange
chicken tikka tasted exactly how it sounded - tender poultry infused with the
taste of Terry’s chocolate orange. I’ll move on quickly.
Mrs G’s Avatar Aubergine (£5) was
relatively successful but tasted a lot less complex than billed. Described as “an
incarnation of baby aubergines”, this attractive looking dish was served with
green tea cinnamon jam, spiced tamarind, pine nuts, mint foam and seasonal
berries. Except for the soft aubergine, mild spicing and sweetness of berries,
the other flavours were lost in the background.
A smooth and sharp pink grapefruit sorbet
arrived as a palette cleanser.
I ordered
Raan-e-Royals (£14) for main. If I
had eaten the dish described on the menu then I’m sure it would have been
excellent. A tender, tandoori cooked lamb shank was marinated in a lovely blend
of green chilli, saffron, yoghurt, ginger and garlic. Unfortunately, the menu
made no mention of the combination of oozing, sharp cheese and nondescript
spherified fruit which clung to the meat. The dish
was accompanied by a delicious mild curry sauce and an undressed salad of
rocket and tomberries.
Mrs G’s Ratnagiri Mango Lamb (£13) was a
delightful blend of spice and sweetness. Lamb pieces were served in a sauce
made from mango pulp, coconut milk and chilli. This was a banging dish except
for the reappearance of some more of the non-descript tasting
spherified fruit and a damp squib of a dry ice generated cinnamon aroma
(compare it to Casamia’s successful smell of the Amalfi Coast).
Garlic butter (£2) and peshwari naans (£3),
and pilau rice (£3) were absolutely delicious.
If Mrs G hadn’t ordered the Gajar ka halwa
Yorkshire (£4) then I would have done out of sheer curiosity. A warm grated
carrot dessert flavoured with cardamom and nuts was served in a Yorkshire
pudding and accompanied by vanilla ice cream. Mrs G rated it highly but I felt the Yorkshire was a little limp.
I ordered a traditional Indian ice-cream known
as Matka kulfi (£4), flavoured with a mix of fruit and nuts. Whilst the huge portion size and flavour were good,
ice crystals had developed on its surface as it had been frozen in its earthenware
pot.
The bill was accompanied by some lovely
miniature Welsh cakes.
Based on the Scientific evidence, what conclusions can I draw about Moksh?
Get rid of the wacky gimmicks, and it’s
clear Moksh can serve some excellent food.
The Details:
Address - Moksh, Bute Crescent, Cardiff Bay, CF10 5AN
Telephone - 029 2049 8120
Web - http://www.moksh.co.uk/
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