Lee Skeet, Bones Supper Club, Cardiff review

Serving only one table for lunch and dinner seven days a week from his flat in Cardiff Bay, Lee Skeet’s Bones Supperclub isn’t like any other restaurant in Cardiff.

Lee singlehandedly cooks your meal, serves it, pairs the wines and does the washing up too. 

Having trained under Marcus Wareing, Gordon Ramsay and Tom Aikens, Lee subsequently headed up the kitchen at Michelin-starred Hedone. He left the hospitality industry to move into hip hop music promotion and it was only as a result of the pandemic that he returned to cooking in 2020.

Offering a six course meal with canapes for £65, there’s also the option to add a lobster course for £30 for two as well as six generous pours of highly gluggable paired wines for £30 a head. We knocked back delicious glasses of cremant, muscadet, sauvignon blanc, muscadet, pinot noir and port.

Flavour-packed snacks kicked off the meal - a deeply savoury beef tartare on a tapioca crisp and oil rich mackerel pate cut through with granny smith on a rye crisp.

The freshest of white Cornish crab meat (it had been alive in the kitchen until two hours before lunch) was joined by chopped ripe sweet tomato, fronds of fragrant dill and a crystal clear tomato consommé. It was the perfect dish for a bright summer's day.

Meaty and tender as heck lobster tail was accompanied by a buttery and silky cauliflower puree, glossy chicken sauce and the refreshing hit of white grape pieces. This was classical cooking of the highest order.

A bonus course of wild mushroom stuffed pasta were gloriously savoury with a good bite. They were sat in an umami-rich mushroom, seaweed and dried tuna broth punctuated with pickled mushrooms.

A tranche of courgette scaled turbot, bathed in a rich and buttery sauce, was studded with courgette and apple pieces which provided a crucial richness balancing counterpoint.

New season salt marsh lamb was as good an advert for Welsh meat as there is. A blushing pink flavour-packed chop, crispy tender mint fragranced belly, roast asparagus and tangy goats curd sauce all combined brilliantly.

Pre-dessert number one, which was impressively created on the hoof as one of the intended pre-desserts was dropped, saw beautifully fresh raspberries and strawberries joined by a killer herb granita heady with mint, tarragon and coriander. Its savoury fragrance was a great match for the sweetness of the berries.

Fortunately, we were still able to try one of the planned pre-desserts which saw more of those excellent raspberries paired with the silkiest and creamiest of lemon possets and a drizzle of grassy olive oil.

Dessert combined a crisp yet pliable, buttery and slightly salty chocolate chip cookie sandwiched with pistachio twanged custard and sweet and delicately tart poached cherries.

This was an absolutely killer meal and no doubt one of the best I’ve ever had in Cardiff.

I’d tried to moderate my expectations based on rave reviews from fellow bloggers and twitterers. But, Lee Skeet’s cooking more than lived up to the hype. If you haven’t booked a table for a Bones Supperclub yet then I seriously recommend doing so.

The Details:

Web - https://bones-entertainment.com/collections/supper-club-reservations
Twitter - https://twitter.com/leeskeet
Address - A flat in Cardiff Bay