Saturday 28 May 2022

Tapas Brindisa, Battersea Power Station, Spanish restaurant review


When I visit London I usually meticulously plan every meal out down to the last after dinner mint.

With so many restaurants in the Big Smoke that I’d like to visit, there's just too much risk in inadvertently strolling into the newest branch of Salt Bae’s steakhouse or a sister establishment to the Rainforest Cafe.

Having found ourselves near the rather magnificent Battersea Power Station redevelopment, and with an unforeseen lunch slot on our hands, I was rather relieved to see some familiar names calling the area home, including Tonkotsu, Roti King and Cinnamon Kitchen.


Another big name which is part of the Battersea redevelopment is Tapas Brindisa, a wholesaler of Spanish meats, cheese, olives and nuts, and restaurant group, with a history that dates back over 30 years.

Brindisa were also one of the first shops in Borough Market when it was establishing its reputation as a magnet for food lovers; I still have fond memories of queuing up for one of their chorizo rolls when I lived in the area during the mid-noughties.

On a sunny Sunday lunchtime we were clearly lucky to snag a walk-in at Brindisa’s buzzing Battersea branch as there was barely a seat available in their outdoor terrace or indoor dining area, which is dominated by a handsome counter which runs almost the full length of the restaurant.


With a menu divided up into cheese and meat boards, eggs, grilled and braised dishes and salads, there’s a strong representation of classic tapas dishes as well as larger dishes including a txuleta of rubia gallega beef and arroz negro (squid ink rice with prawn and alioli).

We mostly stuck to the classics and felt vindicated when a Spanish couple sat next to us ordered almost identically.

A just set piece of room temperature tortilla (£6.50) was all yielding spud and sweet onion with a delicately honky blob of alioli.


Textbook croquetas (£7) were crisp of crumb and stuffed with a nutmeg scented bechamel flecked with salty nuggets of jamon.


Pan con tomate (£4.50) was also great - the thin toasted bread laden with a fresh as you like fruity tomato sauce, a judicious poke of garlic and drizzle of quality olive oil.


Excellent lomo iberico was melty of fat and rich and sweet of flesh. At six quid for nine slices, I didn’t *really* feel like I was missing out on the twenty two quid jamon iberico de bellota.


A densely meaty, spicy and smoky chorizo (£9.50) served with toasted bread, sweet roasted red pepper and peppery rocket brought memories flooding back of their Borough Market chorizo sandwich stall. It really is a top tier sandwich filling combo.


Finally, a salt cod salad (£9) deftly balanced a number of intense flavours - salty and meaty cured fish, sweet and cleansing blood orange, tangy sour cream, floral honey and green leaves.


We finished off the meal on a high with a first rate peach and almond tart (£6) with thin and crisp buttery pastry, nutty and citrus-fragranced frangipane and soft pieces of fruit.


Whilst the thought of an impromptu lunch in London had brought me out in a cold sweat, I needn't have worried with Brindisa’s excellent tapas, booze and service on hand. 

The Details:

Address - Tapas Brindisa, Battersea Power Station, 25 Circus Road West, Nine Elms, London SW11 8EZ
Telephone - 020 8016 8888

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