Malaga is our happy place.
Located on the Andalucian coast in the south of Spain, it’s got everything we look for in a holiday destination. There’s amazing food, cracking wine and beer, sunny weather most of the year, regular flights from Cardiff and Bristol, stunning architecture and well-priced city centre hotels.
We’ve visited multiple times over the last few years, and well as the more obvious tourist sights of the Cathedral, Roman theatre and Moorish castle, we love pootling around La Concepción Historical Botanical Garden, a green oasis on the fringe of the city, and the Rio Guadalhorce Nature Reserve, where you can see wild flamingos and black-winged stilts.
Many of our food and drink recommendations come from Malaga regulars Paul Bobo, Bar 44's Owen Morgan and Edible Reading, so we’re always armed with new places to eat and drink whenever we visit.
Taberna Uvedoble
Calle Alcazabilla, 1, 29015 Málaga
Taberna Uvedoble is the top spot on our ‘to guzzle list’ whenever we visit Malaga. They serve some of the most creative, good value and flavour-packed cooking that we've had in the city.
Squid ink vermicelli is as moreish as it gets. This bowl of toothsome noodles has a lovely umami fish stock intensity and is adorned with tender baby squid and potent allioli.
Their ensalada is one of the best around. It’s essentially a bowl of tuna mayo flecked with a few spuds and topped with sweet prawn. Their truffle scented oozy tortilla, jamon croquetas and oxtail meatballs are exemplary too.
Meson Iberico
Calle San Lorenzo, 27, 29001 Málaga
Situated on a side street in Soho, a little bit away from the crowds, this traditional restaurant and tapas bar is permanently busy. I’d strongly recommend queuing up before they open if you want to snag one of their coveted seats in the bar.
Highlights always include their lovely riff on an ensalada rusa flecked with pieces of plump sweet prawn.
Ruby red slices of jamon iberico de ballota melt in the mouth and have a lovely intensity of flavour.
La Cosmopolita
Calle José Denis Belgrano, 3, 29015 Málaga
This restaurant just screams class – Dani Carnero’s high end Spanish cooking combines traditional flavour combinations with modern technique yet manages to steer clear of any gimmicky bells and whistles. In addition, their service is immense and they have excellent wines by the glass.
A toasted sandwich combines the lightest of crystal bread stuffed with vibrant red fatty tuna belly and a gently warming spiced mayonnaise.
Their crab omelette elevates this most humble of dishes to the greatest heights - oozy eggs are topped with a whopping amount of earthy brown crab meat and soft sweet onions.
El Cortijo de Pepe
Plaza de la Merced, 2, 29012 Málaga
The logo of a man chasing a pig at this old skool tapas bar feels rather fitting. Char-licked chorizo de Ardales and cumin-spiced pinchitos morunos, both of which are cooked over their open grill, are a pair of porky tapas which need chasing down.
Their crisp yet tender pulpo a la brasa, which is also finished over the flames, is served on top of soft buttery spuds and peppers.
El Carpintero
Calle Beatas, 32, 29008 Málaga
El Carpintero is such a mood. Surrounded by religious iconography, it certainly ramps up the guilt you feel when guzzling the indulgent snacks at this great value back street tapas bar.
On numerous visits, we’ve worked our way through hulking pieces of chorizo, spiced liver morcilla, light textured salt cod fritters, aged manchego, gambas pil pil and excellent earthy mushroom croquetas.
La Cosmo
Calle Císter, 11, 29015 Málaga
The younger sibling of La Cosmopolita, La Cosma has a more modern vibe but is still grounded in big flavoured Andalucian cooking without any gimmicks.
A riff on a gilda, the iconic pintxo inspired by actress Rita Hayworth, adds sweet roast tomatoes and fatty tuna belly into the mix whilst an ensalada is zhushed up with soft mashed potato and meaty flakes of hake.
Birras Deluxe
Plaza de la Merced, 5, Distrito Centro, 29012 Málaga
There’s a vast array of Spanish and international craft beers crammed into the fridges at this exceptionally friendly bar. Over multiple visits we’ve enjoyed Spanish wild beers from local brewery Attik and Barcelona’s Cyclic Beer Farm as well as beers on tap from Basqueland.
Gastroteca Can Emma
Calle Ruiz Blaser, 2, Málaga-Este, 29016 Málaga
This little neighbourhood restaurant in Malagueta does a cracking value three course set lunch menu with drinks (€22,50 on weekends and €20,50 on weekdays).
On our most recent visit there was an excellent arroz with chicken and chorizo, hake with soft spuds, and a wobbly flan with dulce de leche.
Casa Mira
Calle Marqués de Larios, 5, 29015 Málaga, Spain
There are massive queues in the evening at this first-class ice cream parlour but it seems to be a lot quieter in the daytime. Take a ticket from the dispenser and wait for your number to be called.
We particularly enjoy their boozy Malaga flavour made with the province’s sweet dessert wine dotted with soft raisins.
Meson Astur
This Asturian outpost in Malaga city centre is tucked away in a back street so it’s often a fair bit less busy than some of the more touristy spots.
A bottle of sharp and funky natural Trabanco natural cider is an essential order and it’ll either be poured from a great height by the barman or using one of their clever self-aerating gizmos.
On the snack front, highlights include a comforting bowl of fabada asturiana, a bean and pork stew. Their cider is also put to good use as a poaching liquor for a plate of chorizo.
La Cheesequería and La Tarta de la Madre de Cris
Calle Carretería, 44, Distrito Centro, 29008 Málaga and Calle Granada, 56, Distrito Centro, 29015 Málaga
If toasty and tangy Basque cheesecake is your bag then you should make a beeline for La Tarte de la Madre de Cris, which is located just around the corner from the Picasso Museum.
Taberna Alaska
Calle Reboul, 37, Carretera de Cádiz, 29006 Málaga
With a few branches dotted around the suburbs of the city, Taberna Alaska serve excellent fish-focused tapas. Killer langoustine skewers, slathered in herby oil, are the highlight. We’ve also really enjoyed super crisp fried boquerones and a smoky pepper salad.
Chiringuito Nuevo Mediterraneo
Paseo Marítimo Pablo Ruiz Picasso, 29016, Málaga
Dotted along the seafront of the city, chiringuitos specialise in fish cooked over charcoal and are lovely spot to dine al fresco.
Dotted along the seafront of the city, chiringuitos specialise in fish cooked over charcoal and are lovely spot to dine al fresco.
They all seem to compete over who serves the cheapest sardine skewer. It's 5 euros at Chiringuito Nuevo Mediterraneo (by no means the cheapest) but it still feels rude to not order two portions at this price. With their salt-crusted skin and a squeeze of lemon juice, they’re compelling eating at whichever chiringuito you visit.
Ryma’s Gastrobar
Calle las Navas, 24, Carretera de Cádiz, 29002 Málaga
An enthralling picture of Ryma’s patatas bravas on social media led us to make the 40-minute walk out of the city centre to their home in Carretera de Cádiz.
It was well worth the walk as they’re some of the best patatas bravas we’ve ever eaten. Hyper crisp thinly sliced golden potato stacks (like Quality Chop House) are served alongside a smoky bravas sauce and a savoury mushroom mayo. It’s the ultimate finger food.
This gastrobar also specialises in arroz dishes and soupy rice with lobster is the house speciality. However, we had a deliciously meaty arroz seco with nuggets of iberico pork, slices of jamon, and fat schnubbins of smoky chistorra.
La Guacamole
Calle Cárcer, 1, 29008 Málaga
The margaritas served at this Mexican bar are worth the visit alone - served with a salty, citrusy and spicy Tajin rim and poured at the table into a glassful crushed ice, they're just the ticket on a balmy night.
There are plenty of other tasty spots to get tasty Mexican food in the city. We’ve enjoyed fiery tacos al pastor from Nina Bonita Cantina and a bargainous €1 version from Los Tacos.
On our most recent visit to Alebrije, which is located en route back from the botanic gardens, a giant platter of eight tacos, tortillas, guacamole, and two beers set us back a mere €23.
La Tranca, Bodegas Tranca and Colmado 93
Calle Carretería, 92, 29008 Málaga
La Tranca is a dive bar that oozes charm with its retro record sleeve-adorned walls and singalong playlist. However, it always seems rammed whenever we walk past, meaning it can be a challenge to elbow your way to the bar.
Due to their popularity, La Tranca has recently opened a smaller offshoot, Bodegas Tranca, which is located just around the corner. Here you can enjoy vermouth and Malaga sweet wine poured straight from the barrel.
Colmado 93, which is another buzzing bar where you enjoy barrel-poured booze, is also located just a few yards away.
La Barria Inka
Plaza María Guerrero, 5, Distrito Centro, 29012 Málaga
Whenever we crave a bit of spice and respite from the deep-fried stuff, we head to La Barria Inka for their Peruvian cooking.
Their white fish ceviche is excellent, with buckets of fresh fish, texture contrast, and a marinade which zings with citrus and spice.
Casa Aranda
Calle Herrería del Rey, 2, 29005 Málaga
If you’re looking for churros then this traditional café is the place to head. Served piping hot from the fryer with a mug of thick hot chocolate, they’re a real treat.
Bolo
Calle Madre de Dios, 41, Distrito Centro, 29012 Málaga
Bolo is a lovely little kiosk which serves excellent coffee and bolo do caco. These super soft and squishy Portuguese bread rolls are cooked daily on their hotplate and served slathered with either garlic butter or peanut butter and jam. They really remind me of a stottie, so of course I’m a big fan.
Hamburguesería Asador Padilla
Avenue del Dr. Marañón, 47, Palma-Palmilla, 29009 Málaga
If you’re in the mood for roast chicken then you can have one hell of a feed here for less than 20 euros. For this poultry sum (badoom tish) you’ll bag yourself a whole golden-skinned rotisserie chicken, paprika dusted crispy potatoes, fresh salad, crusty bread and fresh beers.
La Esquitina de la Gamba
Calle Beatas, 19, Distrito Centro, 29008 Málaga
I’ve got a big crush on berenjenas con miel, i.e. crispy aubergines served with sticky and toasty molasses. In our non-exhaustive search, those from La Esquitina de la Gamba are the best we’ve had in the city (those from Taberna Mitjana are also very good too).
At this city centre tapas bar, they also happen to give you a free tapa with each drink - on our visit it was a hearty chickpea and pork-laden stew.
Central Beers
Calle Cárcer, 6, 29008 Málaga
This craft beer bar really captures an American vibe but there are plenty of great Spanish craft beers on tap from breweries like Basqueland and Peninsula.
Their burgers kick ass too. An American combines a sturdy soft-crumbed bun with a seriously juicy and well-flavoured pink patty, crispy bacon, oozy cheese and barbecue sauce.
Los Patios de Beatas
Calle Beatas, 43, 29006 Málaga, Spain
We enjoyed some excellent wines by the glass at this wine-focused bar and restaurant, including a particularly memorable stone fruit-packed La Ola del Melillero made with a blend of Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel.
Modern tapas was mostly very tasty. Meaty pulpo a la brasa was accompanied by smooth mashed potato and a pokey paprika spiked mayonnaise.
Vertical
Calle Juan de Padilla, 13, 29008 Málaga
Spanish natural wines are the focus at this contemporary bar where we’ve had some delicious varieties by the glass, including an apple-packed La Vie y Sone viognier from Barranco Oscuro, Andalucia's oldest Natural wine maker. But, service was painfully slow on our visit.
Spanish natural wines are the focus at this contemporary bar where we’ve had some delicious varieties by the glass, including an apple-packed La Vie y Sone viognier from Barranco Oscuro, Andalucia's oldest Natural wine maker. But, service was painfully slow on our visit.
Places to stay
We’ve had excellent stays at H10 Croma Málaga and Hotel Molina Lario, both of which have rooftop pools. But our favourite place to stay is the regal Gran Hotel Miramar, which overlooks Malagueta beach and has a big pool area where you can sleep off all that food and drink.
You really can't go wrong in Malaga, food-wise. I'm there 3 or 4 times a year. From cheap and cheerful through to really fine, high-end dining, I've never had a bad meal.
ReplyDeleteI totally agree! Such an awesome city.
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