Lahore Kebabish, Grangetown, Cardiff Pakistani restaurant review

Pound for pound, what’s the best snack in Cardiff?

There are few strong contenders in my book, including Pooja’s legendary paneer roll, the excellent pizza by the slice from West and RomEat, the £1 panelle from Bacareto, the spinach and cheese borek from Four Seasons on City Road, Welsh cakes served warm off the bakestone from Cardiff Market, and the deep-filled steak pie from Rees the Butchers.

However, one acclaimed snack which hadn’t passed my lips until last week is the keema naan from Lahore Kebabish in Grangetown, and now I’m rueing all those missed munching opportunities.

It’s another recommendation from the same knowledgeable Cardiffian who brought City Road’s Hadramowt to my attention. When I last raised the subject of the best bites to eat in Cardiff, I was informed in no uncertain terms: “Don't want to cause an intra-city diplomatic incident, but the best snack in Cardiff is Lahore's keema naan.”

Located on the busy thoroughfare of Penarth Road, Lahore Kebabish’s bright and basic dining room has a fridge full of curries and fried snacks as its focal point. On offer are starters of pakoras and samosas, a selection of curries, and Lahori specialities such as haleem and paya (a breakfast dish made with trotters).

Having ordered at the counter, a pair of fragrant and tangy mango lassis (£3) were the first to appear.

I'll talk about the keema naan next as it really was the star of the show. For £3, it was a meal in itself; the crisp and pillowy bread filled with an equal quantity of spiced minced lamb which peered through its crust. A brush of glossy butter completed the first rate snack. 

Nihari (£10) delivered on the promise of its long cook. Exceptionally tender pieces of lamb were bathed in a well-spiced sauce that was enriched with meaty marrow and cooking juices. Batons of ginger and pieces of green chilli meanwhile brought fresh fragrance and spice to the dish.

Saag paneer (£6.50) saw soft pieces of cheese coated in spinach, onion and spice which had cooked down into one thick sauce.

Sizzling harayali chicken tikka (£5) had a vibrant green herb marinade and was pleasingly juicy and smoky of flesh. Soft and sweet charred onions accompanied each mouthful.

Accompanying side salad was a little lacklustre, the lettuce most certainly having seen better days and raw onion dominating the plate.

Tandoori pratha (£3) wasn’t anything like the flaky layered paratha I expected, but it was still excellent. The thin, crisp and soft bread was brushed with a liberal amount of fat and was a great mop for all those curry sauces. It's clear that breads are definitely one of Lahore Kebabish's strengths. 

We had a delicious lunch at Lahore Kebabish and I really enjoyed their curries and sizzling meat. But I’ll be making a special detour for that keema naan anytime I’m within a 1km radius.

The Details:

Address - Lahore Kebabish, 160 Penarth Rd, Cardiff CF11 6NJ

Web - https://lahorekebabishcardiff.com/

Telephone - 029 2022 1354

Casa, Bristol Italian restaurant review

It's indicative of the way hospitality is going that Bristol's Michelin-starred Casamia transformed earlier this year into Casa, a more casual Italian restaurant.

In are a lot more covers, a bright and minimal dining space, and a menu of technically accomplished yet less tweezery food.

Out is the £180 a head no choice tasting menu and a concept, which despite its acclaim, had become unviable due to increased costs. 

It's a challenging time for hospitality and re-inventing to survive is clearly the way forward.

And even I have to admit that I've grown a bit weary of worshiping at the alter of fayne dayning where the last dish of a 20 course tasting menu is served on the stroke of midnight. 

Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, the brains behind Casa, has most certainly got form when it comes to high-end takes on continental cuisine. His tapas bar, Paco, is located just next door and is a Michelin-starred corker of a restaurant. 

Casa's expansive menu is divided into antipasti, cured meats, cheese, pasta, fish and meat dishes. It's the kind of place it would be possible to visit regularly and order something different every time. 

Having asked for advice on the must order dishes, our fabulous server enthusiastically and knowledgeably talked us through a bunch of recommendations. We followed every tip except for one and the result was superb. 

A glass of skin contact Slovenian Vipava Roza Pinot Gris (£13) was very grown-up with some sherry-like oxidative qualities. A 'Barbabianca' Garganega blend (£11) was complex yet very gluggable; its acidity and bit of funk reminding me of the wild beers which I love so much. 

Focaccia (£6.60) was beautifully soft crumbed and rich with olive oil - it took a lot of restraint to save it for use as a mop for all the sauces yet to come. 

The standout of the entire meal was a high-end take on a Smiths Cheese Moment (£4 each) - super crisp and fine semolina shells were filled with a light and silky cream which delivered an intense wallop of funky and salty Parmesan cheese. I'd love to see what this kitchen can do with their own take on a Bacon or Scampi Fry.

Another great beer snack were olives all'ascolana (£8). Served straight from the fryer, vibrant green olives were stuffed with chicken mince with a good hum of chilli and coated in a light batter. These were a recent special on the menu at McDonald's in Italy and I'd fully endorse them being added to the menu in the UK.

Mortadella (£10) was the only dish that wasn't explicitly recommended - whilst it was a very enjoyable example of my favourite luncheon meat, it was no better than other shop bought versions I've had and certainly wasn't a patch on the stuff from London's Manteca. 

Double agnolotti (£19) was a masterclass in pasta making technique. Paired pockets contained sweet and smooth pumpkin and walnut puree on one side and ricotta twanged with the funk of gorgonzola on the other. Dressed with a mix of brown butter and parmesan, I was a big of its savoury-sweetness but Mrs G felt it was a bit too saccharine. 

Penne-like garganelli (£18) were topped with coarse fennel sausage meat, crisp breadcrumbs and another rich and buttery sauce - if there was a trend starting to emerge in the meal it was one of decadence. 

A fillet of gurnard (£20) was bang on point - meaty, juicy and flaky of flesh with perfectly crisp skin, it was dressed with a zingy green herb sauce. 

Braised beef cheek (£26.50) reminded me more of the kind thing I'd have expected to see on the menu at Hang Fire rather than an Italian restaurant. In fact, a bowl of bread and butter pickles on the side would arguably have provided some welcome acidity. The spoonably-tender low and slow cooked piece of meat was bathed in a thick meaty sauce with a good thrum of chilli. 

'Not quite chicken Milanese' (£28) was the kind of dish which makes me see why people bother with chicken breast when there's always thigh. A gloriously juicy brined breast had been cut in two and the top half turned into a light garlicky mousse which was scattered with a flurry of crisp golden breadcrumbs.

A side of wilted spinach (£8.50) was as rich as vegetable dishes come; it was probably equal parts fat and greenery. A big hit of seasoning was delivered by a pesto with plenty of parmesan funk and throat-tickling garlic. 

Desserts were riffs on two classics.

The thinnest and crispiest of cannoli shells (£6.50) was filled with a smooth mix of ricotta, mascarpone and rhubarb puree. The tart and fragrant fruit cut through the richness of the cream cheese beautifully. 

Tiramisu (£9.50) was as light as it comes but also delivered a seriously boozy kick of marsala wine. 

We had a fabulous meal at Casa and their indulgent, skilful yet unfussy Italian cooking is the kind of food which I could eat time and time again. However, with a bill for two coming in just shy of £250, it's a restaurant which is still very much in special treat territory.

The Details:

Address - Casa, The General, Lower Guinea St, Redcliffe, Bristol BS1 6FU
Web - https://www.casabristol.co.uk/
Telephone - 0117 959 2884

Sopra 73, Whitchurch, Cardiff restaurant review

How many times should you visit a restaurant before reviewing it?

At least three times whilst wearing a disguise and booking under a pseudonym like former New York Times critic Ruth Reichl?

Or maybe just once, like most national restaurant critics in the UK?

I understand the argument for multiple visits, as it allows you to judge a restaurant’s kitchen and service on its consistency.

But at the same time, this blog is a hobby and I’ve got a lot of restaurants that I plan to visit before my arteries clog up.

It’s in this context that I found myself back at Sopra 73 in Whitchurch, a French-Italian-Welsh restaurant which I gave a glowing review to after one visit in its early days last year whilst working at WalesOnline. Mrs G has subsequently been back for two further excellent meals without me.

This time we visited on a Saturday night for a friend’s birthday and we got off to a shaky start after being sat for ten minutes without any offer of a drink or a menu. 

When Mrs G finally retrieved some for herself (menus not drinks), I was pleased to see it was packed with the kind of gutsy cooking you’d expect from head chef Padrig Jones, who previously led the kitchen at the legendary Le Gallois in Pontcanna and also worked under Marco Pierre White and Stephen Terry. Gorgonzola souffle, Italian fish soup, pigs cheek cacciatore and a refined take on a cassoulet were just some of the rib-sticking dishes available.

Sopra 73’s wine list steers away from the pedestrian and an excellent bottle of biodynamic Ruiz Jimenez white rioja 2018 (£29) had plenty of citrus and a little bit of nuttiness.

Service picked up after our initial hiccup and starters arrived fairly promptly. A bowl of steaming mussels (£9) was bathed in a sauce of big flavours – savoury shellfish liquor, honking garlic and white wine. But the mussels themselves had lost their plumpness and a few were on the gritty side.

Rosemary-twanged focaccia was a little bit tight and dryly crumbed and a disc of Netherend butter was fridge-cold.

 A whole burrata (£9) took some encouragement to give up its creamy inner. Accompanying rocket, caponata, pomegranate seeds and chocolate oil were all excellent accompaniments, but Mrs G wanted more of each.

Things got back on track in a big way with our mains and it’s an early contender for the coveted title of “Best Lamb Dish of 2023”.

A colossal Le Creuset pan cocooned a beauty of a Forch Farm lamb shoulder for two (£45). Slow-cooked for 8 hours, its tender and flavoursome flesh nudged off the bone with ease. 

Glossy gravy, rustic pieces of soft and sweet root vegetable, buttery mash and a clever mint sauce twanged with the earthy spiciness of cumin were dream accompaniments for this rustic yet refined dish. Pleasingly, it was such a generous portion that I had enough to take home for my dinner the next day too.

A side dish of vibrant cavolo nero (£4) was topped with a thick tomato sauce with a massive hit of anchovy and whiff of chilli. It was a great accompaniment to the lamb.

Desserts were more of a mixed bag.

A superb silky, sweet and sharp lemon posset (£7) was topped with nuggets of crisp almond brittle, light meringue pieces and passionfruit pearls.

A bargainous sticky toffee (£5) promised so much with its toasty dark sugar-twanged sauce and dollop of creamy ice cream. But the sponge itself sadly leaned towards the dry side.

So, what can I say about Sopra 73?

After two meals of differing success, I’m still willing to stand by my original verdict that it’s a great addition to Cardiff’s restaurant scene. But, perhaps I need a third, fourth or fifth visit…?

The details:

Web - https://www.sopra73.com/

Address - 73B Merthyr Rd, Cardiff CF14 1DD

Telephone - 029 2061 1222