Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias, Colwyn Bay, North Wales restaurant review

Despite Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias's credentials as a former AA Restaurant of the Year for Wales, I was still a little bit sceptical about how good it was going to be.

Firstly, because restaurants with great views in tourist destinations are often mediocre. The reason, tourists don’t tend to be repeat customers, and a pretty view is enough to draw anyone in.

Secondly, because celebrity chef-owned restaurants sometimes trade off a star name that only ever pops their head in once a year.

I was immediately proved wrong on the second count because we were informed that Bryn visits the restaurant two or three times a month as well as making regular visits to his other gaffs in Penarth and Switzerland.

The proof would be in the pudding on the first charge…

Situated on Colwyn Bay’s seafront, Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias’s industrial dining room was a striking venue for an Easter Monday lunch. Other people clearly agreed as it was pretty much a full house.

Understandably, the menu is well populated with fish, with most starters costing around £9, mains in the low twenties, and desserts about £9. It’s surprisingly well-priced compared to other bistros we’ve visited lately.

The first bite of a meal is so often an indicator of how good things are going to be and in this case soda bread (£5) was a beacon of hope. Served hot from the oven, the sturdy sliced loaf had lovely sweet caramelised notes and was excellent slathered with whipped salted butter.

Mrs G kicked off with the Scottish scallop (£19.50), a behemoth of a bivalve with caramelised edges whose accompaniments all packed a punch. There was creamy cauliflower puree, earthy pieces of black pudding and a warming curry oil flecked with sweet sultanas and crunchy pine nuts. It was a delicious riff on a classic.

My crab rarebit (£9.20) was a simpler yet equally delicious proposition. Sourdough toast was laden with a thick mustardy cheese sauce enhanced with an earthy hit of brown crab. On top, a mound of sweet, allium-flecked white crab provided a counterpoint to the richness.

Much like the starters (and us), Mrs G went classy and I went basic.

A beautifully cooked whole plaice (£24.50) flaked off the bone with ease. Sat in a pool of beurre noisette with addictive sweet and toasty caramelised notes, pickled shimeji mushrooms, cucumber and capers all brought welcome pops of acidity.

I went for the fish fingers (£18.50) which were served in anything but a kiddies’ tea-sized portion. Three breadcrumbed fillets of coley were commendably crisp and meaty and served alongside a big pot of golden fries and sweet crushed peas.

The kicker, however, was a mahoosive bowl of homemade creamy tartare sauce that was fragranced with dill and zingy pieces of pickle.

We also shared a Caesar salad (£4.10) on the side, which was a naughty little treat. Crisp leaves were coated in an umami-charged anchovy mayo and topped with a flurry of parmesan cheese and crisp Sourdough croutons.

The baked Alaska (£8.70) has been on the menu at Porth Eirias since day one, so it sounded like a sensible order. Light sponge was topped with a dollop of tangy berry jam, a big dollop of smooth vanilla ice cream and coated in light and silky baked meringue which was soft and mallowy in parts and crisp and caramelised elsewhere. This cast iron skillet of indulgence is definitely for those with a sweet tooth and I reckon it could easily have served two people.

Mrs G ordered the lemon curd parfait (£8) from the specials board and it was the winner of the two desserts. A soft, thick and creamy frozen parfait with a lick of lemon acidity was served with a bevy of treats - zingy blobs of lemon curd, freeze-dried sour cherries, crunchy granola and a toasty black sesame tuille.

Despite my trepidation, we had an excellent lunch at Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias. Their technically accomplished and well-priced classical cooking, served in beautiful setting, makes this a celebrity restaurant which most definitely deserves its reputation.

The Details:

Address - Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias, The Promenade, Colwyn Bay, Conwy LL29 8HH

Web - https://portheirias.com/

Telephone - 01492 533700 

The Jackdaw, Conwy, North Wales restaurant review

As a keen twitcher, any restaurant that has a bird for its name is already predisposed to be my kind of place.

Such is the Jackdaw in Conwy, or Jac-do in Welsh, which takes its name from the smallest of crows that nest in the town’s walls and the nickname for someone born in the local area.

It's owned by Nick Rudge, who originally hails from Llandudno, and was a former junior sous chef at Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck. The Jackdaw has been high on my list of places to visit ever since it opened back in 2021.

Hidden away above a derelict bingo hall and signposted by just a low-key brass plaque on its door frame, the Jackdaw’s narrow staircase opens into a modern and classy dining room. Several design features are familiar from other contemporary fine-dining restaurants, including fur-lined seats, jars of pickles and dried flower hanging wall decorations.

But the Jackdaw still feels distinctly Welsh, with local influences scattered across the menu and distances from Conwy denoted on the drinks list. Unlike some chefs that take pride in flying in the most expensive ingredients from across the world, Nick tries to use as much Welsh produce as possible.

I started off with a Wild Horse Nokota pale ale (£6.50) from just down the road in Llandudno – it’s always a juicy easy drinker at 3.8% ABV. Mrs G sipped a distinctive yet comforting meadowsweet scented gimlet (£13.50). We also had belting glasses of Ancre Hill pinot noir (£9) from Monmouthshire before finishing up with a slightly further flung Chateau Guiraud 1er cru Sauternes (£15) and Patricius Tokaji (£17 - we both agreed the Tokaji was much better).

But, onto the food and I've rarely come across such confident cooking that shows Wales (and the chef's personality) on a plate instead of the usual fine dining by numbers. During evenings there’s a single ten course tasting menu on offer (£125) whilst on Friday and Saturday lunches, six courses are available for £60.

First up, there was a pretty trio of snacks.

Lady Llannover's salt duck was based on a historic recipe from a classic Welsh cookery book that dates back to the 19th century. Kind of like a duck jamon, its fat melted in the mouth and the flesh glistened.

A delicate AF tart case was filled with clean tasting cured gilthead bream and slices of raw asparagus.

Lastly, a crempog Gwanwyn (Spring pancake) had Welsh taco vibes. The soft and airy pancake was filled with the sweetest of langoustines draped with smoky cured pork belly, as well as vibrant leek and intense langoustine emulsions.

Next up was one hell of a good Welsh rarebit. Crisp, fat rich fried bread, a potent Hafod cheese sauce and tangy Conwy brown sauce all made for a killer mouthful.

After all those decadent snacks it was time for a green juice cleanse. A vivid green nettle and apple marigold broth was garnished with slivers of Wye valley asparagus, creamy goat curd and the funk of Welsh truffle.

The Welsh classics were coming thick and fast at this point and I was fully invested. Especially when the Jackdaw's cawl is the best I've ever eaten by some distance. Amongst the depths of an intensely meaty and rosemary scented broth bobbed sweet and tender salt baked swede, carrot and leek and a cuboid of ridiculously tender lamb.

On the side, more fried bread, this time caraway scented, was topped with a fat rich lamb head mince and slices of zippy pickled onion.

Mrs G had an Anton Ego moment with the next course and was transported back to her days at the Welsh seaside as a kid. A gorgeously flavoured-packed sea lettuce dashi was the essence of seaweed in a bowl. In it nestled the meatiest of caramelised scallops and a variety of briny sea vegetables.

Melt in the mouth, buttery confit trout was paired with a creamy smoke-twanged sauce that was split  with dill oil. A variety of richness balancing accompaniments all played their part - sharp salted rhubarb, pickled mustard seeds, and salty trout roe pearls.

Lastly, a guinea fowl dish was the ultimate chicken dinner. The crisp-skinned juicy slice of bird was served with a glossy truffle fragranced gravy, silky wild garlic puree and earthy morels.

The sweet stuff was just as good as the savoury. Finely diced sweet Anglesey rhubarb jelly was accompanied by smooth and sharp rhubarb ice cream. Nostalgic yet modern, it was a belter of a pre-dessert.

Legend has it that the original recipe for Guinness was inspired by a Welsh tavern in nearby Llanfairfechan and our main dessert took inspiration from this folk story. 

A deeply toasty barley and chocolate ganache, yeast caramel, crunchy barley and malted ice cream all gave the effect of a distinctly Guinness-esque dessert. It was superb.

Finally thick, sticky, liquorice twanged treacle toffee with a scattering of sea salt was a dreamy last mouthful.

The Jackdaw’s combination of epic Welsh cooking without a single misstep, warm and friendly service, and a charming, relaxed setting made it one of the best meals we've ever eaten in Wales. I would say it’s surprising that it doesn’t have a Michelin star but then nothing surprises me about the tyre people anymore.

Book a trip to North Wales on holiday, walk the coast path, spot some seals and mountain goats, drink local beer, visit a few castles and most importantly eat dinner at the Jackdaw. You won't be disappointed.

The Details:

Address - The Jackdaw, High Street, Conwy, LL32 8DB

Web - https://www.thejackdawconwy.co.uk/

Telephone - 01492 596922

Thomas the Brasserie, Pontcanna, Cardiff restaurant review 2026

I’ve always been a big fan of Tom Simmons’ refined cooking that combines precision technique with familiar and comforting flavours.

But, Thomas by Tom Simmons, his eponymous restaurant in Pontcanna, always felt like a special occasion kind of place rather than somewhere you’d pop into on a regular basis. That is unless you’re an international rugby player or a member of the cast of Casualty. 

What with the ongoing cost of living crisis putting a strain on people’s wallets and nearby competitors offering more accessible pricing in relaxed settings, I wonder if it’s been the catalyst for the relaunch of the restaurant as Thomas the Brasserie. 

Alongside a lick of paint, crucially there’s been a reworking of the menu. Whilst many of Tom’s signature dishes thankfully remain, there’s now more of a focus on crowd pleasing dishes like roast chicken and chips, charcoal grilled steaks and pork chops, and short rib suet pudding. 

Most interestingly, there’s a rotating selection of well-priced daily specials with dishes including Welsh beef wellington (£20) on Wednesdays and steak frites (£20) on Mondays. So, it's a much more tantalising prospect for regular repeat visits. 

On the Saturday night we visited as a group of 8, both the upstairs and downstairs dining rooms were already buzzing when we arrived at 6.30pm, and it didn’t let up until we left at 9.30pm after a well-paced leisurely meal. 

On the booze front, we kicked off with a round of cracking cocktails – a clarified rum punch (£12) with a big hit of passion fruit and pineapple and a lovely creaminess was just the ticket on the sunniest day of the year so far. Mrs G was equally impressed with a hermosa (£13) that had major margarita vibes. We followed it up with a pleasingly crisp Villa Cosmiana Trebbiano (£47) and a Stone Castle Kosovan red (£40), which whilst very gluggable didn’t really have much complexity. 

To start, Mrs G ordered the tuna carpaccio (£15) from the raw section of the menu. Super fresh and meaty slices of tuna and ripe avocado were bathed in an absolute whopper of a marinade that combined citrusy ponzu, truffle, sesame and basil oil. Whilst it sounds like there was the potential for some flavour clashes, the sauce was very well-balanced and had us reaching for a spoon to scrape up every last drop. 

Having heard rave reviews about Tom’s mushroom parfait (£14) for a few years, I thought it was time to finally give it a go. 

A dome of super silky and creamy umami-rich mushroom pate was accompanied by dinky zingy pickled shimeji mushrooms and golden buttered toast. It’s no exaggeration to say this was every bit as good as the best chicken liver parfait I’ve eaten.

Thankfully Tom’s fried chicken (£8) is still a mainstay of the snack section of the menu so we ordered a portion for the table. Ridiculously crisp crumbed and juicy chicken pieces were topped with the zip of lime mayo and leaves of fresh coriander. 

Onto mains and Mrs G ordered the fillet of beef (£35) served rare as I’d poo-poohed her suggestion of the very well-priced chateaubriand special for two (£35pp including sides). Deep in flavour with a bang-on tenderness and dark crust, it was accompanied by a pot vivid green sauce with a good hit of herb (tarragon, I think). 

Another of Tom’s signature dishes that I’d still somehow never tried was his fish and chips (£26). A hunk of meaty and flaky pan-fried cod was accompanied by a bevy of tasty things – crisp batter scraps with a warming hint of curry, crushed sweet peas and a warm tartare sauce that was a essentially a beurre blanc flecked with salty pearls of fish roe and the balancing acidity of pickles and capers. 

On the side, a portion of Tom’s chips, were addictive little bricks of crisp and tender golden confit potato. 

A friend ordered the Brasserie Burger (£18), which was topped with melted Monterey jack cheese and Lyonnaise onions. He declared it to be a triumph that reminded him very much of a posh Big Mac. 

We ordered a couple of sides to share, and creamed spinach (£7) was as decadent as I'd hoped with a lovely richness of dairy and a hint of garlic and nutmeg.

A cauldron of creamy and well-caramelised Dauphinoise potatoes (£7) was a gargantuan portion. I thought it could have done with a twist of salt but Mrs G disagreed. 

Onto dessert, and a beauty of cheese selection (£14) was a cut above the usual predictable varieties. A lot of thought had gone into the accompaniments too – truffle honey, fig chutney, membrillo and an interesting array of crackers. 

I was laser focused on the salted caramel custard tart (£10) and it was absolute belter. A super fine and crisp pastry crust was laden with warm, thick and wobbly set custard that was heady with notes of toasty salted caramel.

We had an excellent meal at Thomas the Brasserie. With its more accessible pricing and menu of crowd-pleasing dishes, its relaunch can be chalked up as an unmitigated success. 

Tom’s comfort food is the type that you can enjoy without having to think too much about. But, if you do, then you can really appreciate the amount of thought and effort that goes into each dish. 

The Details:

Address - Thomas the Brasserie, 3 & 5 Pontcanna Street, Cardiff CF11 9HQ
Web - https://www.thomas-pontcanna.co.uk/
Telephone - 02921 167 800

Ogof, Pontcanna, Cardiff restaurant and wine bar review

Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Pontcansas anymore.

Of all the restaurants to open in Cardiff in the past few years, Ogof reminds me the most of places I’ve visited in the Big Smoke like Cafe Deco and 40 Maltby Street.  

It’s understandable really, as Ogof is the debut restaurant from Alex Vines, Zanna Clarke and Siôn Iorwerth. Alex, a big talent, who’s previously run a series of delicious pop-ups in Cardiff, has stints at 40 Maltby Street and Rochelle Canteen on his CV. Siôn, meanwhile, previously owned one of Vancouver’s first natural wine bars. 

Located in the Pontcanton hinterland, Ogof is based in the former home of Patagonia, La Cuina and latterly Poca. With its chalkboard menu of produce-led seasonal cooking, shelves laden with natural wines, modern minimalist interior and hulking retro hi-fi system, it’s a venue which radiates trendiness. 

Ogof, which means Cave in Welsh, takes its inspiration from the French “cave à manger” tradition of wine and food focused businesses. At lunchtime Ogof serves a pared back menu of sandwiches, salads and bakes. Whilst in the evening, there’s more substantial cooking on offer. 

With a lunchtime to spare on Christmas Eve, Mrs G and I took the opportunity to give their lunch menu a run for its money. 

But first, the wines. If you’re into all things funky and natural then Ogof’s selection will be very much up your street. There’s a trio of house wines on tap, a few specials by the glass and a big range of bottles to choose from. 

I really enjoyed a glass of cloudy Cerreto Malvasia di Candia (£8), which had plenty of fresh citrus. We also had glasses of Bovin Gamay d’Auvergne (£6.50) and a Domaine Einhart Pinot Blanc Chardonnay blend (£6.50) that Mrs G thought were highly quaffable. I liked them, but felt they were both a touch barnyardy for my taste.

Soft drinks really impressed. A fig leaf and lime cordial (£4) had a wonderfully coconutty and zingy thing going on. Whilst an excellent L'Antidote sparkling spiced Gamay grape juice (£5) was slightly reminiscent of chilled mulled wine. 

Onto the food, and a buttermilk fried pheasant sandwich (£12) saw a deliciously crisp and light crumbed focaccia stuffed with hunks of tender boneless bird coated in golden batter. Fresh slaw provided an excellent counterpoint. This was a corker of a sarnie.

An excellent riff on a Caesar salad (£9.50) combined a tumble of crisp radicchio and sprout tops with toasty-edged roast sprouts and sweet caramelised onions coated in a potently rich and creamy Caesar dressing. A snowdrift of savoury cheese and a scattering of crisp croutons completed the interesting and delicious salad. 

Alex Vines's veg cookery always impresses and a celeriac and apple gratin (£13.50) was no exception. Soft cubes of earthy celeriac and apple pieces were baked in a rich and savoury sauce made with cider, mushroom stock and cream that was topped with caramelised breadcrumbs. Leaves of radicchio, slices of cleansing apple and nuggets of funky Trefaldwyn blue cheese provided excellent contrast. 

Impeccably crisp, salty and fluffy fried potatoes (£5) were accompanied by a pool of golden aioli which delivered just right level of garlic honk.

Finally, a quince pie (£5), which was sat in a pool of cream, delivered festive vibes on Christmas Eve. A super short pastry case was filled with soft and fragrant pear like quince, sweet sultanas and winter spice, and topped with a buttery crumb. 

It was lovely washed down with cups of Welsh Brew tea (£2.50) and Hard Lines filter coffee (£2.50). 

We had a belter of a festive lunch at Ogof and I can't wait to return to try their dinner menu. It's great to see Alex Vines's precisely executed rustic seasonal cooking find a permanent home in Cardiff and Ogof is a great addition to the city’s restaurant scene.  

Update - 22/06/2026

When it came to deciding where to go for my birthday lunch this year, Ogof was the clear winner.  

After all, I can’t think of many more exciting menus in Cardiff at the moment and, since our last visit Ogof has deservedly been named one of Conde Nast Traveller’s Top New Restaurants of 2026. They've also just been added to the Michelin Guide. 

On a Saturday lunchtime, Ogof serves their full a la carte menu. So we were able to eat some more elaborate dishes than on our previous visit. 

Perched at the bar and supping a few ice-cold Kernel Table Beers, we kicked off our lunch with fresh out the oven focaccia (£3.50) with a seam of umami-rich laverbread. 

It was ace slathered with earthy beetroot borani (£5.50).

Golden cheddar fritters (£7.50), which sat in a pool of decadent fermented sweetcorn mayonnaise, were scattered with lightly pickled red chillies, grated cheddar and fresh corn salsa. I'll be ordering this every time I see it on the menu at Ogof. 

Charred and tender asparagus (£19), creamy manteca beans and wilted green garlic leaves were enrobed in a vibrantly herby green goddess sauce.

Herb-scattered and blushing-pink pork collar (£23) was served with braised baby broad beans and charred bok choi. The smoky grilled meat and stewed bean combo had major Greek taverna vibes.

For dessert, an old skool ricotta cheesecake (£9) with an amaretti biscuit base and toasted almonds was accompanied by harmonising fragrant and fresh poached rhubarb.

This was one hell of a birthday lunch. If you haven’t managed to visit Ogof yet then I’d highly recommend it. Alex Vines is a wizard when it comes to vegetable cookery - the local and seasonal produce he sources and the layers of flavour he adds, inevitably makes for a compelling meal.

The Details:

Address - Ogof, 11 Kings Rd, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9BZ
Web - https://www.ogofcardiff.co.uk/