The Gaff, Abergavenny restaurant review

In the current circumstances, a restaurant with a decent outside space holds a trump card.

Even more so if they’ve got shelter from the rain and outdoor heaters to boot.

In fact, I predict the hottest restaurant guide in 2021 will be "The UK’s best restaurants with outdoor seating".

A dead cert for inclusion will be the Gaff in Abergavenny which is located in a pretty courtyard just off one of the town’s main streets. It’s a calming idyll and a lovely place to enjoy a leisurely lunch on a sunny weekday in August. 

The Gaff has been on my to do list since before they even opened last year. Owned by a former head chef of the legendary Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, it was always going to be my kind of place (much like Parva Farmhouse, which is also owned by a former Shaun Hill acolyte).

Their menu of small plates is divided into snacks, fish, meat and vegetables - everything sounds delicious with interesting international flavour combinations strewn across it. 

As we were on holiday, Mrs G sank a glass of citrusy and floral Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs English sparkling wine (£9). I enjoyed a juicy and piney Tiny Rebel Cali pale ale.

We kicked off with a couple of snacks.

A plump, light-battered oyster (£3) served with parma ham, chilli mayo and lime was comforting yet full of zip and zing - as far as first mouthfuls go it was a very good indicator of things to come.

 
A bobbydazzling scotch egg (£5) combined an uber-crisp crumb, well-seasoned juicy sausage meat and a perfectly oozy golden yolked egg. 

Accompanying triple mustard mayo delivered a sinus warming kick. 

The richness of meaty, fatty and sweet lightly-soused mackerel fillets (£6) was balanced well by the acidic hit of pickled carrot, radish and onion. 

Onto the mains where we were veg-focused dishes in our ordering.

Tender, crisp-battered cauliflower pieces (£6) were bathed in an addictive as heck bang bang sauce of well-judged sweetness, saltiness, savouriness and spice. 

A lightly-charred tranche of hispi cabbage (£7) had just the right amount of bite. Joined by the classic Caesar accompaniments of a poky dressing, crisp bacon lardons and croutons, and a dusting of parmesan, it made for a compelling interpretation of the celebrated salad. 

Crisp and cleansing courgette shavings (£7.50) were luxed up by a liquid-centred burrata and a fragrant dressing packed with mint, first rate oil and a whiff of chilli.

 
A juicy buttermilk marinated chicken piece was coated in a crisp and intensely seasoned Southern fried crumb. A creamy mustardy slaw, a light and citrusy red cabbage slaw and perky pickles were a trio of delicious sides. But, at £14 for a single chicken leg it was the only dish in the meal that stood out as poor value. 

Last up, an overflowing pot of seriously chunky duck fat chips (£6) were joined by a lightly-spiced ketchup.

Sharing puds are always the kind of thing which grab my eye - I still think longingly of the trifle for two we had at Rochelle Canteen.

The Gaff’s sticky toffee pudding (£15) was no exception. A hillock of light, sweet and sticky sponge was joined by jugs of thin creamy vanilla-fragranced custard and toasty dark sugar and salt-twanged caramel sauce as well as scoops of thick, subtle banana-flavoured ice cream.

 

Why argue about whether custard or ice cream is better with a hot pud when you can have both? 

Mrs G and I had a cracking meal at The Gaff. With it’s flavour-packed small plates and lovely courtyard setting, it’s another great addition to Abergavenny’s culinary riches.

The Details:

Address - The Gaff, Unit 4 The Courtyard, Lion St, Abergavenny NP7 5PE

Web - https://www.thegaffrestaurant.co.uk/

Telephone - 01873 739310

Parva Farmhouse, Tintern, Monmouthshire restaurant with rooms review

It’s been just over twelve months since our last visit to Parva Farmhouse in the Monmouthshire village of Tintern.

It’s a meal which lived long in the memory thanks to the hearty dishes of technically accomplished food we ate and the warm and homely welcome we received.

With husband and wife team Roger and Marta Brook’s years of experience as head chef and restaurant manager at the brilliant Walnut Tree, it’s unsurprising we had such a great experience.

This time around Mrs G and I booked into Parva Farmhouse for the night. Having settled into our swish room (£120 bed & breakfast) with beautiful views over the River Wye, we set to work on a jar of freshly baked chocolate chip cookies and biscotti before heading downstairs for aperitifs.

Whilst I knocked back an Aperol spritz and Mrs G guzzled a glass of fizz we enjoyed uber-cheesy parmesan biscuits topped with the tang of cream cheese.

Parva Farmhouse’s daily changing evening menu (2 courses £36 / 3 courses £45) consists of a reassuringly concise two options per course. Despite the menu’s brevity there wasn’t a single dud sounding dish. Of course, we ordered everything and divided the spoils.

A textbook warm, soft and crusty mini white loaf was delicious slathered with soft golden butter.

A perfectly flaky fillet of John Dory was bathed in a broth of perfect poise, deftly balancing salt, chilli, savoury, sesame and sourness. Added texture and interest was brought to this South East Asian influenced dish in the form of pickled mustard greens, and salted radish.

A pretty terrine of beautifully soft and sweet leeks was daubed with a zingy vinaigrette and elevated by Middle Eastern inspired accompaniments of delicately charred, crisp and soft sesame bread, creamy and tangy labneh and a mix of crunchy hazelnuts and fragrant parsley.

Mains smashed it out of the park and then some.

In fact, the first dish was the best ‘barbecue’ I've had in Wales save for the legendary Hang Fire. Ridiculously tender and flavoursome fillet steak and spoonably soft beef cheek were coated in the stickiest of bbq sauces.

A thumpingly mustardy and parsley-fragranced slaw provided balance whilst uber crisp roasties dialled the filth back up another notch. Finally, a scattering of funky chanterelles reminded us that we were in a fact in a high end restaurant and not eating the ultimate comfort food on our sofa back at home.

Across the table a sweet and crisp skinned fillet of sea trout was joined by a clever velvety chickpea sauce studded with more of the soft beans. Crisp and smooth textured chickpea fritters, baby courgettes and earthy roast beetroots all added extra interest to the delicious proceedings.

Desserts were both lovely but didn't quite hit the same levels as the other two courses.

A black forest ice cream was so much more than its billing. Light chocolate mousse, gooey brownie, juicy tart cherries, smooth vanilla ice cream and intense cherry sorbet were sat on a chocolate brownie base which was just a touch too firm to make easy work with a spoon.

A deceptively light blackberry and nectarine trifle saw fragrant juicy fruit, light vanilla custard and whipped cream sat on soft and sweet soaked sponge which could have taken a slightly larger whallop of sherry.

Breakfast the next day was just as good as the night before.

Plump syrup-bathed Agen prunes and apricots fragrant with honey, cinnamon and vanilla were delicious topped with pecan and fig granola.

A fry up was a cornucopia of delights including soft black pudding, plump sausages and a fried slice. Team #NoBeans would be pleased by the absence of any soggifying bean juice.

Crumpets were soaked in butter and beefy bovril and topped with golden yolked poached eggs. It’s the first time I’ve come across this killer combination but it most certainly won’t be the last.

We had an awesome stay, dinner and breakfast at Parva Farmhouse; hearty and homely but with bags of technique, this my kind of place.

The Details:

Address - Parva Farmhouse, Tintern, Chepstow, Monmouthshire, Wales NP16 6SQ
Web - http://www.parvafarmhouse.co.uk/
Telephone - 01291 689411

The Black Bear Inn, Usk, Monmouthshire restaurant review

I hate social media.

I love social media.

I hate the fake news, fake followers, lack of nuance in any discussion, blaggers, bots and undisclosed freebies.

I love how it can help you find out about hidden gems which don’t have a PR machine behind them.

A few nights ago I disappeared down a social media rabbit hole when I saw a local food writer had posted about a meal they’d eaten at the Black Bear Inn in Usk.

A swift trip over to the Black Bear’s Instagram and I was sold by the snaps of their lush looking seasonal food and a message from the acclaimed Coombeshead Farm team exclaiming they were looking forward to a visit.

A few days and a 40 minute drive from Cardiff later and Mrs G and I found ourselves sat in the cosy dining room at The Black Bear.

Under new ownership since November last year, it’s run by a couple with plenty of restaurant experience; chef patron Josh was most recently at Bristol’s Bar Buvette.

The Bear’s chalkboard menu is enjoyably compact with just 3 starters and 3 mains alongside snacks and desserts.

The wine list is interesting too (unsurprising given Bar Buvette’s wine focus). We drank a bottle of Slobodne Jantara Slovakian orange wine (£42) with lovely citrus and mineral notes.

Delicious house sourdough was enjoyably tangy and soft of crumb with a caramelised crust. The butter, however, would have benefited from sitting out of the fridge a little longer.

Snacks were both crackerjacks.

Such was the runniness of the filling of a quartet of ham and cheese croquetas (£3.75) that I couldn’t tell if it was a ridiculously cheesy bechamel or just a ridiculously large amount of melted cheese. It was the former and they were delightful with their flecks of salty ham and golden crumb.

Welsh rarebit (£3.75) with a thick oozy slick of a savoury mustard and beery cheese concoction was very tasty indeed.

An overflowing bowl of mussels (£7.50) were perfectly plump and juicy without a shrivelled bivalve in sight. Soft and sweet leeks and a slightly boozy, buttery and shellfish-twanged cider broth completed the lovely combination.

A mound of tender purple sprouting broccoli (£8) were coated in a tempura style bubbly and super crisp batter. By chance or design, some of the leaves had extricated themselves from the batter and become crunchy giving the effect of crispy seaweed. A liberal dusting of funky Welsh truffle shavings and savoury cheese whacked up the luxury levels whilst a vibrant dill, parsley and sage mayonnaise brought freshness and acidity.

Onto mains and a meaty and golden-tinged fillet of cod (£18) was upstaged by a pair of beautifully crisp and caramelised yet perfectly tender cauliflower pieces. They were accompanied by herby green lentils with just the right amount of bite and a butter sauce which could perhaps have done with a bigger hit of the richness balancing punch of caper.

A gloriously pink Madgett’s farm duck breast (£18.50) was tender of flesh, well-rendered of fat and full of flavour. The skin could have been crisper but it was still a top drawer piece of meat. Alongside moreish braised red cabbage it was joined by a pair of genius accompaniments. Pear mustard was the lovechild of apple sauce and mustard - sweet and warming in equal measure. A fried potato cake was ridiculously crisp on the exterior with soft buttery thin layers of spud on the interior.

Onto the home stretch and dessert didn’t let the side down.

Apple and cider sorbet (£3) was as light and airy a sorbet I’ve eaten with a luxury cider lolly vibe.

A pear and almond tart (£6) ticked all the boxes. Thin, crisp and golden pastry - check. Light and moist frangipane - check. Soft and fragrant fruit - check. A big jug of double cream - check.

With its warm welcome and delicious seasonal cooking, the Black Bear is a lovely addition to the gastronomically well-endowed wilds of Monmouthshire. I seriously recommend a visit.

The Details:

Address - The Black Bear Inn, Bettws Newydd, Usk NP15 1JN
Web - https://www.theblackbearinn.co.uk/
Telephone - 01873 880701

Parva Farmhouse, Tintern, Monmouthshire restaurant review

The Walnut Tree in Abergavenny is more important to me than any other restaurant.

It’s not because of their unfussy Michelin-starred food or because it’s owned by Shaun Hill, one of the legends of British cooking.

It’s because it’s where I proposed to Mrs G whilst she had her face buried in a fridge full of freshly baked ham and smoked salmon.

So, Mrs G and I hotfooted it to Tintern when we heard the news that two key members of The Walnut Tree team had struck out on their own.

Tintern Abbey

Parva Farmhouse Riverside Guesthouse was opened in March by Roger and Marta Brook. Roger was head chef at The Walnut Tree, having worked there for 15 years under Franco Taruschio, Stephen Terry and latterly Shaun Hill. Marta was restaurant manager.

To say they’re an experienced duo therefore is an understatement. It’s put to very good use as they run front of house and the kitchen without any other support. With just six tables, service is cleverly staggered to allow for a smooth experience for all guests. 

 
Understandably too, there are only two options available for each course on the menu (two courses £34, three courses £42 and four courses £48). Mrs G and I gave all of them a go. 

Pre-dinner drinks in the lounge were accompanied by a pair of fine complimentary snacks.

Golden brown homemade crisps had a pleasing rustle and a generous scatter of salt. 

Crisp, squidgy and protein-packed fishcakes were served with a dollop of beguilingly smokey paprika mayonnaise. 

 
White and seeded rolls were good but made even better as they were served piping hot so the slathered butter melted into them beautifully. 

Starters set the tone for the rest of the meal, one of high end heartiness.

A handsome courgette flower was loaded with a creamy, tangy, chive-flecked, melty cheese mix and coated in the lightest of batters. Lush accompaniments comprised of finely diced baby courgette, al dente broad beans, baked provencal tomato with a herb crumb and fresh pesto which didn’t dominate. 

My dish was simple by comparison, but just as delicious. A sweet fillet of sea trout was topped with a mound of umami-rich anchovy butter which melted into the flaky fish. Peppery watercress and cleansing radish provided balance to the plate. 

 
For main, Mrs G loved a beautifully pink and crisp skinned breast of Challans duck. It was served with a whopping pastilla filled with a coarse mince of duck and warming sweet spices, french beans, a glossy meat sauce and a sweet and sharp apricot sauce which cut through the dish’s richness. 

A generous fillet of meaty halibut bathed in a creamy mustard sauce was just as impressive. It was served with precisely cooked sugar snap peas, spears of asparagus and tender new potatoes. Lightly pickled cucumber slices and pearls of salmon roe provided a good counterpoint. 

 
Onto dessert, and a big creamy bowl of vanilla-fragranced rice pudding was made doubly indulgent by a scoop of strawberry ice cream. Crunchy mixed seeds, fresh strawberries and coulis completed the lovely dish. 

A pistachio cheesecake was a fine bit of comfort food too. The crisp base was topped with an intensely fragranced pistachio cream cheese mix and a lighter layer of pistachio cream. A ridiculously smooth cherry sorbet and lightly poached cherries were the perfect match. 

 
Happily stuffed, we passed on a cheese course and coffee and petit fours. I’ll definitely have a lighter lunch and make room for them next time.

We had a lush meal at Parva Farmhouse. Their generous yet refined cooking make it another must visit amongst Monmouthshire’s already impressive number of destination restaurants.

The Details:

Address - Parva Farmhouse, Tintern, Chepstow, Monmouthshire, Wales NP16 6SQ
Web - http://www.parvafarmhouse.co.uk/
Telephone - 01291 689411