Pane Olio, Rhiwbina, Cardiff Italian restaurant and deli review

Rhiwbina doesn’t exactly have a reputation for being one of Cardiff’s liveliest suburbs.

Well at least it never did when Mrs G grew up around there.

Until fairly recently, the Juboraj and Deri Inn were about as exciting as it got when it came to places to eat and drink.

But, over the last few years there’s been a string of exciting independent hospitality openings.

First, the Rhiwbina Tap opened in 2021, followed by Mesen in 2023, and a branch of Pettigrew Bakery in 2025.

And just last month, the long-awaited Pane Olio finally opened its doors.

This Italian restaurant and delicatessen is owned by chef David Thomas, a Rhiwbina native with an impressive CV to his name. He initially trained under Stephen Terry at the Hardwick before working in top kitchens in Tuscany for eight years. Returning to Cardiff during the pandemic, David then cooked at the brilliant Casanova for five years before finally striking out on his own.

By day, Pane Olio’s deli serves freshly baked bread, cold cuts, and pantry items whilst the next-door restaurant offers a set lunch menu with three courses for less than thirty quid.

When we visited on a Wednesday evening, the outside terrace was humming with people enjoying aperitivi. The classy dining room, which is less pile-it-high pizza pasta joint and more classy Tuscan trattoria, quickly filled to capacity.

Pane Olio’s compact focuses on a tight selection of antipasti, primi and secondi. Dishes include panzanella (£10), fresh taglioni pasta with king prawns and chilli (£21) and sirloin steak with rocket and parmesan (£30).

On the booze front, a red-focused all Italian list, includes a few well-priced house wines by the glass. Fruity Fiano (£7 for a medium glass), super gluggable Chianti (£7), and prosecco (£7.50) all very much did the job.

Airy crumbed focaccia and toasty crusted sourdough (£5.50) were accompanied by a bowl of grassy olive oil.

A golden arancino (£7), which was sat on a pool of fruity and creamy tomato and mascarpone sauce, was the standout of the starters. Beneath its hyper crisp exterior was a layer of courgette-flecked and mint-scented rice surrounding a core of compellingly molten cheese. Classy yet hearty, it was a sign of things to come.

Caponata (£8) saw soft aubergines and crunchy celery bound together with a palate enlivening sweet and sour tomato sauce. Nuggets of crumbly ricotta cheese and toasted almonds provided flavour and texture contrast.

I can’t see mortadella (£9) on a menu and not order it. Here, the thin slices of luxury Billy Bear sausage were nicely flecked with pistachios. Each mouthful transported me back to last year’s guzzling trip to Bologna.

Wild mushroom risotto (£18) was a decadent bit of comfort food with a bang on texture that balanced intense umami and funky mushroom flavours with luxurious cream and cheese notes. I suspect a background kick of booze might have added even more complexity.

Coarse and meaty sausage ragu (£18) was accompanied by al dente trottole pasta and a generous dusting of fresh parmesan. It was very tasty but less memorable than the risotto.

A lot of care had gone into a side salad (£5) too – mini cucumbers, baby plum tomatoes, thinly sliced shallots and an interesting mix of leaves all had plenty of flavour, were properly dressed and precisely plated.

Just the two desserts were on offer on our visit during our meal as they’d run out of panna cotta.

Thankfully, there was no shortage of tiramisu (£9). Light yet decadent, it was very good indeed. A big dollop had just the right ratio of coffee-soaked sponge, mascarpone cream, and bitter cocoa.

 A ramekin of rich and thick chocolate mousse (£9) dusted with crushed hazelnuts hit the spot too.

We had a lovely meal at Pane Olio and their classy yet big flavoured Italian cooking is another welcome addition to Rhiwbina's restaurant scene. This North Cardiff suburb has most definitely found its groove when it comes to independent hospitality.

The Details:

Address - Pane Olio, 2B Heol y Deri, Rhiwbina, Cardiff CF14 6HF
Web - https://paneolio.co.uk/

Bohémien, South Wales, French pop-up review

Having enjoyed Tom Martin’s cooking whilst he was head chef at Llanerch Vineyard, I’ve been keen to visit one of his Bohémien supper clubs, which roam across south Wales on a weekly basis.

A keen Francophile, Tom’s cooking lives by the mantra of “more butter, less bullshit”. It’s the kind of indulgent food that sounds right up my boulevard.

At each event, Tom serves a menu of between four and seven courses of French cooking that ranges in price from £38 and £50. Riffs on classics include paté en croute, braised beef cheek with potato fondant and tarte au citron.

With a Saturday night free and an event conveniently taking place at Snail’s Deli in Rhiwbina, we took along Mrs G’s mum as an early Mother’s Day treat. The seven course dinner (£50 a head) kicked off at 6pm and ended at 9pm - just the kind of timings that suit me and Mrs G who operate on the same meal and bedtime schedule as the average 10-year-old.

Snail’s bright yellow exterior and cosy and eclectic interior give it the ideal vibe for a French pop-up. Squint your eyes and you could almost be in Montmartre.

On the booze front, Snail’s has a well-priced selection of wines by the glass and bottle with nothing costing more than £30. We knocked back a couple of bottles of fruity and easy-drinking Villa Rossi Sangiovese (£22.95).

Each course was delivered in quick succession by the friendly front of house team with Tom providing a brief introduction to each dish.

First up, was a slice of beautifully soft and tender smoked ham terrene with a hint of mustard. It was topped with a good dollop of decadent Russian salad made with tender potatoes, peas, carrots, grated egg and pickles coated in a silky mayonnaise. No one I know appreciates a good Russian salad as much as Mrs G and this one very much passed muster.

The second course was the most underwhelming of the night, partly because it was served lukewarm – an issue which affected a couple of other dishes due to the lack of a heat lamp in the kitchen. I guess that’s one of the challenges of running pop-ups in different venues.

A French onion risotto was made with a base of long-cooked caramelised onions which provided a good sweetness, but it lacked the layers of stock-rich umami intensity that I typically associate with this French classic. Instead, truffle oil provided the dominant note with a decent grating of nutty comté providing a welcome second fiddle.

Next up came my standout dish of the night, an absolute stunner of a slow-cooked piece of rolled lamb breast. Tender, seamed with fat and intensely meaty, it was topped with soft flageolet beans and sweet confit garlic, and brought together with a drizzle of rich cooking juices and the vibrancy of a green herb oil.

Tom introduced the fish course by saying that you don’t see trout on enough restaurant menus and I firmly agree. A beautifully cooked piece of sweet chalk stream trout was garnished with a light almond crumb and served alongside tenderstem broccoli, silky broccoli puree and a decadent beurre blanc with a balancing zing of lemon. However, once again this dish suffered from a lack of heat… nobody wants a tepid broccoli puree.

Things hit their stride again with a refined take on a pot au feu. A meaty rolled chicken thigh was stuffed with a flavour-packed herby chicken mousseline. The skin on the outside was a little flabby, but this was easily removed. Garnishes were all bang on, including an intense chicken consommé, a savoy cabbage leaf stuffed with rich shredded chicken, and hefty chunks of toothsome root vegetable.

The second rice dish of the night was the other weakest link of the meal. A rice pudding bavarois had a lovely creamy and cinnamon scented flavour going on but it was a little too set with gelatine and the rice still a touch chalky. However, I was fully on board with a gorgeous condiment of vibrant macerated pineapple cut with the fragrance of fresh mint.

We rounded off the meal with a scoop of dense and creamy chocolate orange ice cream which very much hit the mark for a Terry’s devotee like me. It was billed as being served alongside spiced French toast but as it wasn’t made with egg and was super crisp instead of squidgy, it was more reminiscent of a caramelised melba toast.

Overall, we had a really fun evening at Bohémien. Whilst there were some real highs and a few disappointments, Tom is clearly a chef that can deliver big flavoured French cooking, something I think we need more of in south Wales. Add the cosy vibes at Snails and their well-priced wine into the mix and it makes for a thoroughly enjoyable night out.

The Details:

Address - Snails Deli, 6-8 Beulah Rd, Rhiwbina, Cardiff CF14 6LX

Web - https://bohemien.uk/

Telephone - 07468 427284

Mesen, Rhiwbina, Cardiff Sunday lunch review

I don’t think I’ve ever opened a review by talking about a restaurant’s cocktail selection.

But, then not every restaurant has a mixologist of the calibre of Matthew “Welly” Jones like Rhiwbina’s Mesen. The former general manager of Cardiff’s Lab 22 was part of the team when it was named best in the UK in the Top 50 Cocktail Bars in 2022 and won Best Cocktail Menu in The World’s 50 Best Bars in 2021. Not a bad CV then.

Welly has firmly put his stamp on Mesen’s cocktail menu with understated sounding creations like WKD Spritz, Old Fashioned, and Lowball. But, you can be assured that each one has its own twist, using ingredients like ash baked beetroot juice, pickled peach and toasted honey.

A stellar raspberry daiquiri (£11) was far removed from the saccharine red fruit slushy most places serve up. Combining rum, sweet and creamy cacao blanc, the sharp fragrance of raspberry and the added complexity of white miso, it was so good that Mrs G’s mum had one for starter and one for dessert. 

A fresh and fragrant gimlet (£11) was equally impressive. Combining gin and Lillet Blanc with the clever aroma of apricot and grape, it was extremely well balanced and dangerously gluggable.

But, enough about the cocktails… I should probably talk about Mesen’s food.

Since opening in 2023, Mesen (which means Acorn in Welsh) has built a strong reputation for its globally influenced flame cooking. Sharing dishes on their weekly changing blackboard include sweetbreads with turnip and prosciutto; prawn dumplings with rib broth; and padron peppers with blue cheese and panko crumb.

Their Mariachi band soundtrack, live fire cooking and Palace streetwear inspired merch, certainly brings something hip to the traditional suburb of Rhiwbina.

On a Sunday lunchtime, Mesen serves a compact menu of one starter, four mains and three desserts. When we visited, there was a choice of three meats for main, a T-bone steak for two to share (£70), pork belly (£35) and chicken (£27), all of which included the usual Sunday roast trimmings. 

A minor frustration, but it shouldn’t be impossible to track down a restaurant’s menu in advance of visiting. Whether it’s on the website or social media, it’s one of the main things that prospective customers are looking for… still at least I’m going to get some good blog traffic for people googling “Mesen Sunday lunch menu”.

We passed on starters in anticipation of hefty main course portions.

A T-bone steak was a handsome beast. We weren’t asked how we’d like it cooked but thankfully there was absolutely no need. 

Served a beautiful medium rare with a uniform pinkness throughout and a good salty crust, it was nicely beefy with a good tenderness. This was an excellent piece of meat and thankfully Mrs G and her mum had a few spare slices that I could pilfer. 

Two pieces of pork belly appeared generous, had excellent shatteringly crisp skin and deliciously juicy and tender flesh. But, around half of each piece of meat was comprised of fat, meaning that its value for money was certainly questionable in comparison to the whopping steak.

Sharing sides were very good, with a few real standouts.

Sweet roast carrots had a bang on amount of bite and were topped with a savoury flurry of cheese and sat in a pool of vivid pesto. They were excellent.

 A heaped plateful of roasties were commendably crisp and light and fluffy on the inside.

A large jug of steaming thick and meaty gravy ensured that there was no rationing required.

Cabbage had a nice lick of smoke; it was a good reminder that we were in a flame cookery restaurant.

Yorkshire puddings were crisp and soft, but I must admit that I rather craved their giant sharing version that I’ve seen doing the rounds online.

We washed it all down with glasses of a red fruit and liquorice twanged Negroamaro and Malvasia blend (£11 for 250ml) and coupes of prosecco (£8) before moving onto a pair of honeyed Cerons (£6.50) and Tokaji dessert wines (£9) to accompany dessert.

Oaty, salty and sweet hobnobs (£8) were lovely paired with creamy brie and a drizzle of truffle honey. It was a corking combination that I’ll certainly emulate at home.

Toasty, smooth and creamy Basque cheesecake (£8) was lush too. But it didn't need the accompanying dollop of creamy crème fraiche as it was better on its own.

We had a delicious and generous roast dinner at Mesen with very good service. However, whilst it’s hard to fault the value for money of such an excellent steak with sides for two for £70, I’m really not so sure about the pork.

Judging by the full house on a Sunday lunch, Mesen has clearly been embraced by the local community, and for good reason. I’d be very keen to go back for dinner to work my way through some of their more exciting dishes. Of course, I’ll be going ordering a clutch of their cocktails too.

The Details:

Address - Mesen, Heol-Y-Deri, Rhiwbina, Cardiff CF14 6HF

Web - https://www.mesenrestaurant.com/

Juboraj, Rhiwbina, Cardiff Indian restaurant review

The Juboraj group is undoubtedly one of Cardiff’s best known and longest standing restaurant institutions. 

With restaurants in Rhiwbina, Mill Lane and Lakeside amongst others, this chain of Bangladeshi / Indian restaurants has a history which dates back to 1989 when they first opened in Cardiff Bay’s Bute Street. 

I’ve previously visited the Lakeside and Cardiff Bay branches where I’ve had perfectly decent yet unremarkable meals. So, when I ate at the Rhiwbina restaurant it’s unsurprising that I had a very similar experience. 

Poppadoms and chutneys were on the mark. A lime and mixed vegetable number was the standout with a good level of spice and sourness. 

A mixed starter (£6.25) comprised of a deep-flavoured keema samosa, crisp onion bhajis and a curiously dense and dry breadcrumbed chicken pakora. 

Machli biran (£6.55) saw salmon coated in a lightly spiced marinade. However, the use of a fillet instead of a slightly boney steak would have improved the dish immeasurably. 

Masala chicken wings had a good level of char and spice. But, £6 for three half wings seemed over ambitious in price. 

Onto mains, and tandoori chicken (£11) was tender and generously portioned. A mound of caramelised onions were equally compelling. 

Murgi massala (£12.55) saw heaps of tandoori chicken slices in a keema flecked sauce. It was an enjoyable curry but it would have benefited from a bigger hit of spice.

Salan-e-ghost (£13.60) was intensely flavoured but the pieces of beef in the curry were disappointingly dry. 

A peshwari naan and pilau rice both did the job. However, an off-menu garlic keema naan was a revelation which I’ll certainly adding to my regular curry regime. 

With slightly higher pricing than other high street curry houses, I'd expect more than the average from Juboraj. On this occasion, it was just average. 

The Details:

Address - Juboraj Rhiwbina, 10 Heol Y Deri, Rhiwbina, Cardiff CF14 6HG

Web - http://www.juborajgroup.com/rhiwbina/

Telephone - 029 2062 8894