When it comes to the distribution of Cardiff’s high-end independent restaurants, the city centre and the west side of town have all the fun.
Thomas by Tom Simmons, Heaney’s, The Heathcock, Pasture, Asador 44, Purple Poppadom, Parallel and Poca are just a few of the places which I wish were closer to my doorstep on the east side of the city.
So, I’ve always felt there’s been a gap in the market (if there is such a thing during this perilous time for the hospitality sector) for something a bit swanky on Roath’s Wellfield Road.
Enter Silures, which opened on the former site of the Cameo Club in May last year and is named after an ancient tribe of warrior people who occupied Southeast Wales during the first century AD.
With owners who come from a background in luxury hotels, it’s unsurprising that Silures so effectively conjures a high-end experience. Its moody lighting, wood-panelled walls, rich colour palette, and a beauty of a bar, make it a place which would look just as comfortable in Mayfair as in Roath.
Silures’ all-day dining menu is billed as “Modern European” with dishes including Orkney XL King Scallop with champagne beurre blanc (£18), half lobster thermidor (£35), miso-glazed aubergine (£24), and Cote de boeuf for two (£85). This pricing clearly positions it at Cardiff’s pricier end of the spectrum. But, if you’re looking for a more budget friendly visit then their three course set lunch will set you back £30 and their Sunday lunch menu is £35 too.
We were visiting Silures with friends who are regulars and had a voucher for 50% off the bill as part of a Christmas promotion. But, on certain days of the week throughout January, February and March, Silures are offering 30% off their a la carte menu for tables booked through The Fork.
On the booze front, a bottle of Montgomery sparking Seyval Blanc (£65) was a light and very gluggable bottle of Welsh fizz. It’s great to see the Welsh wine industry going from strength to strength. A delicious bottle of Greywacke New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (£56) was packed with crunchy green peppers.
Snacks took the form of grilled sourdough (£4), which had a good char and was pre-drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. However, with the range of amazing butters on offer at similar level restaurants in the city, Silures’ bread offering felt like a bit of a missed opportunity.
To start, a big bowl of thick, sweet and earthy Jerusalem artichoke soup (£10) was well-seasoned with the umami hit of black garlic.
A pair of super tender and fat-rich boneless lamb ribs (£14) had a great intensity of flavour. I really enjoyed their sticky, gelatinous skin but some might prefer a crisper finish. Accompaniments all served to balance the meat’s richness; the tang of sorrel fragranced yoghurt, briny cured anchovies, and pearls of cleansing pomegranate were all bob on.
Onto mains, and a wild mushroom risotto (£26) had a good loose texture and just the right amount of bite on each grain of rice. The funk of fungus, a savoury twang of Spenwood cheese, and crispy sage leaves all contributed to a very good risotto, but I think the flavour intensity could have been dialled up another notch. Surprisingly, generous shavings of Welsh black truffle were slightly muted and didn’t add a huge amount of flavour to the dish.
Creedy Carver duck breast (£30) hit the bullseye in its cooking. Blushing pink and tender, with well-rendered fat, it was just a slight shame that it was noticeably cooler than the other excellent elements on the plate. Fall apart tender confit duck leg with a sweet and savoury soy glaze, precisely cooked leaves of cavolo nero, a dollop of squash puree with crispy cavolo nero, and an intense, glossy and sticky bordelaise sauce all combined to make a delicious plate of food.
Bowlfuls of first-rate macaroni cheese (£5) had an indulgently thick cheese sauce with a big hit of sharp and savoury cheese and a crust of melted stuff on top for good measure. I’d have been happy with it as it was, but our friends insisted on pimping it up with sweet and meaty chunks of lobster and crayfish (£6 extra) and a flurry of funky truffle (£4 extra).
Thick-cut chips (£5) had a lovely golden hue, rustly crunch, and soft fluffy interiors.
For dessert, a dome of soft and light crumbed sticky toffee pudding (£8) was well-drenched in a creamy caramel sauce which didn’t go too big on the toasty dark sugar notes. In case my blood sugar levels needed topping up further, an extra jug of the sauce was left on the side. Dense and silky clotted cream ice cream and buttery shortbread crumbs were lovely accompaniments.
A saucepan of thick and smooth white chocolate crème brûlée (£8) was well-judged in its use of white chocolate; it deftly avoided being too sweet whilst adding an extra flavour dimension. Meanwhile, the fine crunchy caramel top was bolstered by the presence of additional nuggets of toasty honeycomb.
We rounded off our meal with a pair of cracking cocktails, a White Russian (£10) and a margarita (£10.50). Having previously visited Silures for cocktails, it’s fair to say that they really know their way around a drinks cabinet.
Overall, we had an excellent evening at Silures. With their high-end comfort food, attentive service and classy setting, Silures brings a bit of lux to Roath. Whilst it’s clearly possible to splurge a load of money on a visit, their current 30% off deal and set lunch menus mean there are some very good offers to be had too.
The Details:
Address - Silures, 55 Wellfield Rd, Cardiff CF24 3PA
Telephone - 029 2280 6369
No comments:
Post a Comment