The Shed, Swansea Marina restaurant review

I can't tell you the last time I was this excited about a new restaurant opening in Wales.

It's because Jonathan Woolway, the former chef director of St John, one of the UK's most iconic restaurants, has just opened his own gaff in Swansea.

Repeat, this is not a drill - the former chef director of St John, the Michelin-starred restaurant which pioneered ‘nose to tail’ cooking and was a favourite of Anthony Bourdain, has opened a restaurant just an hour down the road from my house.

Woolway, who originally hails from Gorseinon had worked at St John since 2008, becoming their head chef in 2014 and chef director in 2021.

Now, he’s returned home to Swansea and opened The Shed in Swansea's Marina.

Located in a former grain warehouse that dates back to the 19th century, The Shed’s large industrial space impressively manages to retain an intimate feel. On one side of the dining room there’s an open kitchen where Jonathan oversees the pass and on the other side a bar area with a chalkboard offering negronis as well as local Beer Riff beers.

The menu is straight out of the St John playbook, focusing on first class produce, prepared with precision technique, yet at the same time appearing entirely unfussy.

It's no understatement to say I wanted to order everything and that's before I even got onto the specials board, which included a sharing beef pie for two, steamed marmalade pudding with custard, and giant chocolate and honey choux bun.

Whilst there’s a good selection of sparkling wines by the glass, rather weirdly there's only one white, red and rose on offer. Fortunately, I enjoyed the deliciously fruity and smashable Patagonian Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay (£6.95) whilst Mrs G tucked away a couple of glasses of Tatty G champagne (£13).

Cockle croquettes (£8) summed up the whole experience. A hyper crisp crumb gave way to a light yet decadent bechamel studded with salty and meaty cockles. But it was a drizzle of malt vinegar that gave it a distinctly British twang, transforming the snack into high end chip shop filth.

A salad of earthy beetroot (£11), creamy and tangy goats cheese, crunchy walnuts, peppery watercress, and a dressing of well-judged acidity, was an example of the simple executed with exactness.

A quenelle of whipped chicken livers (£12.50) was quite simply the finest chicken liver pate I've ever eaten. Silky, light and creamy, the rich pate had a good meatiness and iron rich finish without an off-putting dominating offaliness. Lightly charred sourdough toasts and a sweet and delicately acidic pear and ginger chutney were the ideal accompaniments.

Mrs G's braised rabbit main course (£24) was so good that she described it as Watership Up. Stupidly tender fall of the bone bunny, coarse and creamy celeriac mash with a soft accent of aniseed, silky yet potent aioli, and meaty cooking juices, were all excellent. It wasn’t a looker but every component combined to form a Megazord of deliciousness.

Mackerel (£24) is one of my favourite fish in the world. But, getting it off the bone can be a right faff. Impressively, the Shed's whopping butterflied version didn't have a single bone in it. Lightly charred and smoky skin gave way to beautifully oily flesh that was delicious accompanied by a potently salty and savoury anchovy cream and soft rainbow chard with an almost meaty twang.

Welsh rarebit (£8) was a klaxon of savouriness. The crisp toast, topped with an ooze of poky cheese, warming mustard, and beer, was dialled up in intensity even further by the addition of a few blobs of Worcestershire Sauce.

For dessert, Mrs G took on The Shed's equivalent of St John's eccles cake and Lancashire cheese. Warm bara brith (£9), with a light fruit bread vibe, was topped with a slick of melting salty butter and accompanied by the funky savouriness of Teifi cheese. It was a belter of a sweet-savoury combination.

My pavlova (£9.50) was very good too. The light and crisp meringue (I must admit I did hope for a slightly chewy centre) was topped with shocking pink sweet, tart and fragrant rhubarb and vanilla scented whipped cream.

We had an outstanding meal at the Shed and I could go back every week for their brilliantly accomplished yet understated cooking.

I’m rather jealous that they’re located in Swansea rather than Cardiff. But, most importantly, I’m happy that Wales has a chef of Jonathan Woolway’s calibre cooking in his home country.

The Details:

Address - The Shed, Unit 1-2, J Shed Arcade, Kings Rd, Swansea SA1 8PL

Web - https://theshedsa1.com/

Telephone - 01792 712120