If you’ve been dozing off at the number of North East restaurant reviews I’ve written over the last few months, then I’d like to reassure you that I’m not gradually becoming a Newcastle-based food blogger.
However, if I ever did, then Terry Laybourne’s Newcastle-based 21 Hospitality Group would be top of the list of places I’d be banging the drum about on a regular basis.
Their gastropub, The Broad Chare, serves exemplary takes on pub classics as well as an interesting selection of craft beer.
Whilst neighbouring St Vincent serves a corking selection of wine by the glass as well as a captivating menu which draws influences from across France and Italy.
Located just around the corner on Newcastle's Quayside is 21, the family's flagship restaurant. Oxymoronically, it bills itself as a “classic, modern bistro”. It’s certainly got the swankiest feel of the 21 Group restaurants we’ve visited, with its crisp linen tablecloths and more formal approach to service.
In keeping with its siblings, 21’s cooking is big on flavour and technique whilst at the same being free from fuss. On the a la carte, dishes include Provencal fish soup (£13.50), cheddar cheese and spinach soufflé (£14.50), and tournedos Rossini (£44.50). There’s also a £70 seasonal five course tasting menu on offer.
But, always on the look out for a bargain, we visited 21 for their £36 three course set menu, which is available lunch and dinner Tuesday to Thursday as well as lunch and early evening on a Saturday.
Pre-dinner drinks in the bar were accompanied by short and intensely cheesy dinky biscuits, which made for a compelling little snack.
Whilst 21’s wine by the glass selection isn’t quite as exciting as St Vincent’s, we both really enjoyed glasses of Akemi Rioja Blanco (£12.75) and Weinhaus Ress Riesling (£12.50).
A basket of complimentary first class crusty baguette was served with golden salty butter. Don't get me wrong, I love sourdough as much as the next hipster, but it does seem to be ubiquitous on restaurant menus.
Plump tempura oysters (£13.50 for three) were coated in the lightest and airiest of batters. They were sat on blobs of ozone twanged oyster mayo, which dialled up the shellfish intensity.
Onto starters, and a meaty tartare of fresh and smoked salmon had just the right hint of smoke. Topped with a dollop of crème fraîche, its richness was balanced by the clarity of an apple and cucumber dressing.
A quartet of golden cube-shaped croquettes were filled with tender shredded pork. Flecked with capers and accompanied by pickled shallots they both provided pops of acidity against the rich pork and fragrant wild garlic mayo.
For mains, a hunk of confit duck was a lovely marriage of crisp skin and tender flesh. Accompanied by sweet baby onions, salty lardons, duck fat potatoes, sweet peas and a meaty jus, it was a refined take on a classic dish.
A pair of crisp-skinned seabream fillets were bathed in a compelling beurre noisette. If there was any risk of a shortage of butter on the dish, our fears were assuaged by a dollop of golden butter enriched silky mashed potato. Salty brown shrimp and samphire all brought extra seasoning to the plate.
Dessert delivered the best dish of the meal. A slice of Amalfi lemon tart was filled with the silkiest of custards with just the right hit of tart and fragrant citrus. But the impeccably crisp and thin pastry case deserves a special mention as far too often it’s soft pastry that lets the side down.
I’ve noticed that you can order a whole lemon tart from 21 to eat at home, so that’s what I’ll be doing next time I’m in Newcastle by myself.
Finally, a gorgeously creamy white chocolate panna cotta had the perfect wobble. Tart and fragrant gooseberries (I wish I saw more of one of my top three fruits on restaurant menus) bathed in elderflower syrup were great, whilst shortbread nuggets provided crunch.
An Americano was accompanied by delicious chocolates filled with squidgy salted caramel.
We had a superb lunch at 21. Much like its stablemates it offers textbook hospitality whilst at the same time bringing something unique to the party.
The Details:
Address - 21, One Trinity Gardens, Pandon, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 2HH
Telephone - (0191) 222 0755
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