“Use it or lose it”
It’s such a well-worn cliché that’s trotted out by sanctimonious bloggers like me that it’s lost most of its impact.
But, as I was stood at the bar at the Heathcock in Llandaff and told that their sister pub the Clifton in Bristol had closed the previous week, it really hammered home that nowhere is safe from the chill winds that are blowing through the hospitality industry.
The Clifton, much like its siblings the excellent Heathcock and Hare and Hounds, had received glowing reviews in the national press, and all are / were holders of Michelin Bib Gourmands, an award for excellent cooking at a reasonable price. Even still, it wasn’t enough for the Clifton.
In light of this bleak news, it was fitting that I was back at the Heathcock to spend some money after far too long an absence.
On a lovely summer’s eve, we basked in the sunshine of the Heathcock’s beautiful garden, and I knocked a very enjoyable pint of Arbor’s American pale ale on cask before moving onto a bottle of crisp Conde Valdemar white rioja (£39).
Whilst the Heathcock’s main restaurant now serves a saver menu (£30 for three courses), a set menu (£49 for three courses) and tasting menu (£50 for seven courses), their extensive bar menu offers a selection of small plates, snacks, mains and desserts that are ideal for grazing whilst you’re boozing. It was difficult to pass up lamb sweetbreads with smoked bacon (£11) or house sausage and ketchup (£5). But, there’s only so much food that a man can eat.
On the snack front, a quartet of crispy lamb belly pieces (£7) looked like meaty fish fingers. The soft and tender, fat-seamed pieces of meat were coated in a crisp golden crumb and accompanied by a pot of honkingly potent garlic aioli.
A textbook Welsh rarebit (£4) comprised of a doorstop of toasted sourdough topped with a super savoury golden concoction of pokey cheese and warming mustard.
Onto my main course, and a lovely hanger steak (£16) was served a pleasing rare. With a good flavour, light chew and scattering of sea salt, it was a lovely piece of meat. And all the better for its accompaniments, a thick, spicy and sweet romesco sauce, charred spring onion and the best version of the Heathcock’s confit potatoes that I’ve eaten – the pressed tender potato slices were deep fried to a ridiculous golden crunch.
For the purposes of completeness, I ordered a dessert. A beautifully wobbly buttermilk pudding (£9) was reminiscent of a panna cotta but with a richness balancing yoghurty tang. Toasty pieces of honeycomb and fragrant strawberries were bang on garnishes.
I had an excellent meal at the Heathcock and judging by the feedback from others sat with me, they did do. There’s no doubt this is one of, if not, Cardiff’s very best gastropub. If it’s been a while since you last visited then it’s most definitely worth a return trip soon.
The Details:
Address - The Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge St, Cardiff CF5 2EN
Web - https://heathcockcardiff.com/
Telephone - 029 2115 2290
All looks fabulous. We rarely get down to Bristol but do our best to go to our favourite local places whenever we can!
ReplyDeleteIt's definitely worth a visit! Fortunately it's just a short walk from my office so I went with work colleagues.
Delete