Ogof, Pontcanna, Cardiff restaurant and wine bar review

Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Pontcansas anymore.

Of all the restaurants to open in Cardiff in the past few years, Ogof reminds me the most of places I’ve visited in the Big Smoke like Cafe Deco and 40 Maltby Street.  

It’s understandable really, as Ogof is the debut restaurant from Alex Vines, Zanna Clarke and Siôn Iorwerth. Alex, a big talent, who’s previously run a series of delicious pop-ups in Cardiff, has stints at 40 Maltby Street and Rochelle Canteen on his CV. Siôn, meanwhile, previously owned one of Vancouver’s first natural wine bars. 

Located in the Pontcanton hinterland, Ogof is based in the former home of Patagonia, La Cuina and latterly Poca. With its chalkboard menu of produce-led seasonal cooking, shelves laden with natural wines, modern minimalist interior and hulking retro hi-fi system, it’s a venue which radiates trendiness. 

Ogof, which means Cave in Welsh, takes its inspiration from the French “cave à manger” tradition of wine and food focused businesses. At lunchtime Ogof serves a pared back menu of sandwiches, salads and bakes. Whilst in the evening, there’s more substantial cooking on offer. 

With a lunchtime to spare on Christmas Eve, Mrs G and I took the opportunity to give their lunch menu a run for its money. 

But first, the wines. If you’re into all things funky and natural then Ogof’s selection will be very much up your street. There’s a trio of house wines on tap, a few specials by the glass and a big range of bottles to choose from. 

I really enjoyed a glass of cloudy Cerreto Malvasia di Candia (£8), which had plenty of fresh citrus. We also had glasses of Bovin Gamay d’Auvergne (£6.50) and a Domaine Einhart Pinot Blanc Chardonnay blend (£6.50) that Mrs G thought were highly quaffable. I liked them, but felt they were both a touch barnyardy for my taste.

Soft drinks really impressed. A fig leaf and lime cordial (£4) had a wonderfully coconutty and zingy thing going on. Whilst an excellent L'Antidote sparkling spiced Gamay grape juice (£5) was slightly reminiscent of chilled mulled wine. 

Onto the food, and a buttermilk fried pheasant sandwich (£12) saw a deliciously crisp and light crumbed focaccia stuffed with hunks of tender boneless bird coated in golden batter. Fresh slaw provided an excellent counterpoint. This was a corker of a sarnie.

An excellent riff on a Caesar salad (£9.50) combined a tumble of crisp radicchio and sprout tops with toasty-edged roast sprouts and sweet caramelised onions coated in a potently rich and creamy Caesar dressing. A snowdrift of savoury cheese and a scattering of crisp croutons completed the interesting and delicious salad. 

Alex Vines's veg cookery always impresses and a celeriac and apple gratin (£13.50) was no exception. Soft cubes of earthy celeriac and apple pieces were baked in a rich and savoury sauce made with cider, mushroom stock and cream that was topped with caramelised breadcrumbs. Leaves of radicchio, slices of cleansing apple and nuggets of funky Trefaldwyn blue cheese provided excellent contrast. 

Impeccably crisp, salty and fluffy fried potatoes (£5) were accompanied by a pool of golden aioli which delivered just right level of garlic honk.

Finally, a quince pie (£5), which was sat in a pool of cream, delivered festive vibes on Christmas Eve. A super short pastry case was filled with soft and fragrant pear like quince, sweet sultanas and winter spice, and topped with a buttery crumb. 

It was lovely washed down with cups of Welsh Brew tea (£2.50) and Hard Lines filter coffee (£2.50). 

We had a belter of a festive lunch at Ogof and I can't wait to return to try their dinner menu. It's great to see Alex Vines's precisely executed rustic seasonal cooking find a permanent home in Cardiff and Ogof is a great addition to the city’s restaurant scene.  

The Details:

Address - Ogof, 11 Kings Rd, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9BZ
Web - https://www.ogofcardiff.co.uk/ 

Qamariyah, Adamsdown, Cardiff Yemeni restaurant review

When an old friend told me he was going to be in town to deliver a guest lecture on the history of Islam in Cardiff, we hatched a plan to go out for dinner.

Of course, there was only one type of restaurant we were going to visit – a Yemeni one.

Firstly, because Cardiff’s Yemeni population is one of the oldest Muslim communities in the UK.

Secondly, because an anecdote and a few photos from our meal would provide some additional content to pad out his lecture.

Our destination of choice was Qamariyah, a recently opened gaff that’s located on the former site of Mowlana in Adamsdown. Having enjoyed a pint at the Four Elms around the corner, we were ready to guzzle some slow cooked meat.

Named after the half-moon shaped stained-glass windows that form an important part of Yemen’s architecture, Qamariyah is a bright and modern place that mixes tables and chairs with traditional floor seating.

Whilst Qamariyah’s lamb mandi is the headliner on their menu, other dishes on offer include aqda’ah (a traditional Yemeni stew), fuul (fava beans cooked with vegetables and spices) and spiced seabass.

As Qamariyah is booze free, we both stuck to the fresh juices. Lime and mint juice (£4) was deliciously fresh and zingy whilst mango juice hit the mark too (£4).

I let my friend choose what we were going to eat for dinner and we seriously over-ordered. So much so that we were asked to move to a bigger table to accommodate all our food.

Firstly, it’s fair to say that Mowlana have handed over the mantle of Cardiff’s biggest sharing bread to Qamariyah. A ginormous mulawah bread (£2.50) took up half the table. Crisp, flaky, soft, and elastic, it reminded me of a cross between a paratha and a naan. It was seriously good.

Lamb mandi (£12.99), a dish which needs no introduction, saw pieces of yieldingly tender slow-cooked and spiced lamb sat on a bed compellingly fragrant and fluffy rice. Whilst crispy onions appeared to be bought in (unlike the homemade ones at Hadramowt), they provided welcome crunchy contrast. It was another fine example of this addictively comforting dish.

Chicken mandi (£8.99) was also excellent, the meat commendably juicy and fragrant. But, I think the lamb edged it for me.

Key to the success of both of these dishes were little bowls of fragrant salsa that delivered a richness balancing hit of fresh tomato and a little kick of chilli.

The two other dishes we tried were both excellent. In fact, we both agreed the liver (£8) was the standout of the meal.

A sizzling skillet of finely sliced pieces of earthy offal were nicely crisp around the edges whilst remaining soft and tender. They were coated in a compellingly savoury spice mix and flecked with crisp pieces of green and red peppers.

Fahsa (£11), a traditional Yemeni stew, was more meat than sauce… I’m not complaining. A flavour-packed lamb broth was loaded with tender shreds of slow-cooked lamb. A green herb sauce brought fragrance and freshness to the rich dish.

Stuffed, I had plenty of food leftover to bag up for lunch the next day. So, I was grateful for my learned colleague’s overordering.  

With its comforting cooking and good value pricing, Qamariyah is another Cardiff Yemeni restaurant that’s definitely worth visiting. My friend was mightily impressed too and I hope that he managed to find Qamariyah a few new customers by giving them a shout out in his lecture.  

The Details:

Address - Qamariyah, 2 Four Elms Road, Cardiff CF24 1LE
Web - https://qamariyah.com/
Telephone -  029 2297 0249