Sticky Walnut, Chester restaurant review

There's no denying that eating out has got a lot more expensive over the last decade or so.

With increases in energy costs, inflation in the price of ingredients, rises in wages, and changes to business rates, there’s a very good reason why a portion of Pasture’s short rib croquettes now cost £8 instead of £5 (like they did in 2020) or why afternoon tea at the Angel Hotel in Abergavenny will set you back £52 instead of £30 (like it did in 2017).

After all, something’s got to give for restaurants to try and remain viable.

So, when Mrs G and I were on a nostalgia-packed trip to Chester a few weeks ago, I did a double take when I saw that Sticky Walnut was offering a three course early doors bistro menu for £23. Available from Monday to Friday at lunchtimes and before 6.30pm, the compact menu of two starters, mains, and desserts, is one hell of a deal.

Located in the Chester suburb of Hoole, Sticky Walnut is the OG of Gary Usher's Elite Bistros restaurant group, which also includes Hispi, Wreck and the White Horse. With its setting amongst a terraced row of shops, it’s a cosy little spot that matches exactly how I’d picture a prototypical neighbourhood bistro.

As well as their ridiculously good value set menu, Sticky Walnut offers a main menu that’s much more in line with high-end bistro pricing. Starters like crispy lamb tongue with sauce vierge range from £10 to £14 whilst mains such as lemon sole with brown butter cost between £25 and £38. As expected, I plumped for the set menu, whilst Mrs G went a la carte.

Throughout our meal, we had superb service from Beth. It’s engaging front of house like this which creates loyal customers.

Glasses of wine included a citrusy and slightly funky biodynamic Vitikultur Gruner Veltliner (£9) whilst a plonky Bacalhoa Tinto Portuguese red (£5.50) worked fine with my main course.

To start, warm house sourdough (£4) was pleasant, but its crust would have benefited from a bit of crunch and accompanying whipped butter would have welcomed a scattering of salt.

My first course was a simple yet delicious combination of toasted sourdough, creamy ricotta, sweet charred edged leeks and a jammy-yolked eggs.

Across the table, a dinky slice of toast was topped with a light textured and creamy mushroom parfait (£10) with a good hit of fungus that was lifted by the fragrance and zip of pickled rhubarb and the crunch of nut. It was very tasty but as the second mushroom parfait we’d eaten in one week, it didn't quite hit the same level as Tom Simmons' epic version.

Both our mains were very good if a little dinky.

A caramelised edged puck of tender shredded pork shoulder was sat on a bed of stock rich lentils and topped with a quenelle of salsa verde with a good hit of green herb and acidity. Rustic yet refined, it was just the kind of dish that suits a set menu.

Mrs G’s main was a crisp skinned meaty red mullet (£29.50) served on top of iron rich cavolo nero and a stonker of a creamy bisque with a good hit of shellfish. At £6 more than my entire three course menu, however, the contrast in price was stark.

On the side, al dente tenderstem broccoli (£6) was bathed in a whopping flavoured dressing of tarragon and mustard.

I was expecting my set menu dessert to be just a bonne bouche, but my chocolate pot turned out to be a chocolate trough. Rich, thick and silky chocolate ganache was topped with a dollop of tangy crème fraiche and the clever crunch of crushed salted almonds. It was a frigging superb dessert that I'd have gladly paid over a tenner for.

Mrs G opted for a well-priced plate of buttery Ashcombe cheese (£7) accompanied by very good homemade rye crackers and fig jelly.

As Mrs G and I were celebrating an anniversary, we were very kindly presented with a couple of bits of beautifully squidgy earl grey and whisky fudge. This was another big tick in the column for Sticky Walnut’s warm hospitality.

With its delicious cooking and superb service, Sticky Walnut is the kind of Neighbourhood bistro which I’d be delighted to live nearby. Whilst their main menu’s pricing makes it a special treat kind of thing, that stonkingly good value set menu would have me going back time and time again. 

The Details:

Address - Sticky Walnut, 11 Charles St, Chester CH2 3AZ

Web - https://stickywalnut-bistro.co.uk/

Telephone - 01244 400400

Covino, Chester wine bar and restaurant review

I'm not sure if I've ever visited a restaurant that feels more geared up for couples than Covino in Chester. 

With counter seating dominating the compact dining room, a handful of tables for two, and a menu of small plates, it’s a restaurant that feels tailormade for twosomes. 

On the night we visited, one couple were browsing holiday destinations on their phone; another pair were getting acquainted over a rump of lamb; whilst one duo had brought along their very well-behaved dog for a quiet night. And Mrs G and I were clearly being very nosy. 

Covino’s compact menu of eclectically influenced small plates reads exceptionally well, with dishes ranging in price between £11 and £29.

With a cellar of over 130 different wines, everything we drank by the glass was very enjoyable - a saline Monte pio Raxeira Albarino (£9.50) and a briochey Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Saumur Brut (£10.50) were the highlights. A slightly whiffy Cuvée Kéké Beaujolais (£13.50) and a punchy Sobrero Nebiolo (£15) were tasty but not quite as good.

Food was an absolute rip roarer from the first mouthful. Impressively it was all knocked up by a single chef and kitchen porter. As a result, and understandably, the same dish was sent out simultaneously to different tables to make things more manageable for the kitchen. 

Light and crusty warm sourdough (£6) was generous in portion and served with a smear of butter with a light honey sweetness and funk of truffle. 

A confit duck special (£16) was the next dish to arrive. Crisp skinned and tender of flesh it was served in a bowl of borlotti beans bathed in a creamy sauce with a compelling hit of orange that cut through the richness of the meat. I think this might be the first time I’ve had duck a l'orange and I can see what all the fuss is about.

Halfway through guzzling our duck, a snack of cheese gougères (£10) showed up. Piping hot, the light choux buns were topped with a flurry of nutty comté cheese. They were one heck of a bar snack, and I’d have preferred them to have been served that way, rather than having to masquerade as a side dish for the duck.

Next up, golden edged meaty scallop pieces (£14) were sat in their shell and drenched with a huge-flavoured peppercorn sauce with a good throat tingling heat. I've seen quite a few places serving fish with peppercorn sauces lately and I can totally see why – in fact, everything should be served with it.

A whopping disc of crisp-edged earthy boudin noir (£11.50), which Covino import from France, was served with a trio of belting accompaniments - a glossy meaty sauce, sweet petit pois and the crunch of caramelised walnuts.

Last but no means least, a bowl of cavatelli pasta (£16.50), which had the dense yet tender texture of a pasta-gnocchi hybrid, were bathed in a super savoury and meaty pork ragu with layers and layers of flavour. 

If we'd left it there it would have been a nigh on perfect meal. But, as I can never say no to dessert, I plumped for a brioche tiramisu (£8.50).

All I can say is there's a reason why brioche isn't normally used for tiramisu. The bread had soaked up all the dessert’s moisture making it dense, watery and claggy. Layers of mascarpone cream and cocoa powder were lovely, but they couldn’t compensate for that brioche. 

Ignoring dessert, we had an excellent meal of interesting and well-priced food at Covino. The front of house team were really friendly and engaging too. Despite being tailored for couples, Covino is so much fun that I’m sure you’d have a whale of a time if you came along as a solo diner or larger group. 

The Details:

Address - Covino, 118 Northgate Street, Chester CH1 2HT
Web - https://www.covino.co.uk/