Sonder, Pontcanna, Cardiff Sunday roast review

One hospitality trend that I’m most definitely on board with is it becoming less formal.

In the early noughties, I remember donning my black trousers, loafers and Firetrap shirt for a big night out at Baja Beach Club on Newcastle’s Quayside. I looked and felt like an absolute plonker. But they were the rules if you wanted to go anywhere nice for the evening.

Twenty years on and dressing up like you’re going for a job interview is no longer a necessity in most places if you're going out for the night.

That includes high-end restaurants too, where the rise of the "luxury bistro" has seen starched white tablecloths, rigid dress codes, dainty portions and formal service ditched in favour of accessible yet technically accomplished cooking that's served in bustling settings where you can feel just at home in jeans and a t-shirt as a jacket and shirt.

In London, the Michelin-starred Dorian, which serves blackened-crusted sharing steaks, loaded tostadas and caviar topped rostis, is the poster-child for the movement. So much so, that it was named "the most influential restaurant in the UK of the last decade" in a recent column in Vittles magazine. 

In Cardiff, Sonder, is arguably the closest thing we have to the archetype. Since opening in April 2025, Jake Lewis’s luxury bistro has become Cardiff’s hottest ticket… and like Dorian he also sometimes serves sharing steaks, tostadas and topped rostis.

On the Sunday lunchtime that we visited at the start of October 2026 there wasn’t a spare seat to be found, with the place packed out with couples, families, and large group celebrations.

Normally, Sundays are more manageable for restaurant kitchens due to a reduced menu of roast dinners made with common components across all dishes. It’s certainly not the case at Sonder where they’ve taken the logistical challenge up a notch by serving both their hefty a la carte menu as well as roast dinners. That is once they’ve finished brunch service.

We kick off our meal with cocktails. A humorously named Pontcante (£12) is a ferociously spicy and zingy mix of guindilla tequila, agave and lime. It’s too much kick for Mrs G but I’m very glad to take it off her hands. A much lighter and subtler El Ritmo (£13) marries ginger infused rum with a fragrant gunpowder tea syrup. We move on to glasses of Ruinart champagne (£14.50) and spice twanged Marques de Caceres Excellens Rioja (£10.50).

From the bamboozling array of 14 snacks and starters, I struggle to choose. We settle on tuna tacos (£9), an appropriately Munchkin-sized snack before a plateful of meat. Three dainty crisp taco shells are loaded with freshly dressed meaty tuna tartare topped with a sliver of green chilli heat.

I’m all in favour of seeing burgers served as a starter. In fact, I’m all in favour of seeing them served as dessert too. Mini beef sliders (£9) combine pairs of pink and juicy, well-crusted patties squished between light toast alongside an ooze of American cheese and the freshness of green herb. They’re lovely little mouthfuls.

But my favourite of the trio is a mix of funky wild mushrooms (£11) bathed in a creamy, earthy and umami-packed chestnut and mushroom velouté. Salty cured egg yolk, iron rich spinach and the crunch of focaccia croutes provide plenty of contrast.

We all order Sunday roasts. Partially because I’m in the mood for a roast dinner and partly because it makes choosing from the stacked menu of 23 main courses less daunting.

Mrs G goes for the 40-day dry aged roast beef (£31). A quartet of dark crusted, gorgeously pink, beautifully tender and well-flavoured slices of meat are joined by sweet roast carrots, perky peas and greens, a light and soft Yorkshire pudding, silky celeriac puree and a fudgy boulder of roast beetroot.

I opt for the enjoyably named “trifecta” (£33), which combines a pair of those excellent beef slices with commendably juicy pork loin and shreds of intensely flavoured lamb shoulder. They’re all excellent but the beef is the star of the show – its cap of fat so tender that I don’t let it go to waste.

Roast potatoes are the standout of the included sides. Shatteringly crisp and fluffy centred, they’ve got a ridiculous beefiness from being cooked in dripping.

Celeriac and cauliflower cheese is excellent too. The soft and charred edged brassica and root vegetable with a bit more bite are coated in a thick cheese sauce that doesn’t hold back in its pokiness. However, the portion is a bit on the meagre side for a group of four and they kindly bring us a top up when we ask for more.

Gravy is a little underpowered and a touch thin, but we don’t go short as there’s an extra jug for the table.

Our meal continues on an upward trajectory all the way to dessert.

A plate of profiteroles (£10) is one of the best versions of one of my favourite desserts that I’ve ever eaten. Everything is on point from the light and crisp edged choux buns to their stuffing of silky smooth and soft textured milk ice cream. But what brings it altogether is a jug of hot dark chocolate sauce with a lovely bitterness and twang of salted caramel. The balance of textures and temperatures is off the charts.

In fact, it’s so good that a friend who wasn’t planning on eating dessert, immediately orders a portion for himself after tasting a spoonful mine.

Burnt basque cheesecake (£8.50) – with its requisite dark crust and silky smooth and tangy centre – sat in a pool of light Pedro Ximenez sauce is excellent too.

As if I hadn’t already indulged enough with dessert, a chocolate orange espresso martini (£12) delivers the right balance of roasty coffee, sweet chocolate and fragrant citrus.

We had a cracker of a Sunday lunch at Sonder and I can see why it’s so popular. Aspirational yet accessible with warm and friendly front of house, they serve the kind of cooking which rewards multiple visits.

The Details:

Address - Sonder, 72 Llandaff Road, Pontcanna, Cardiff
Web - https://sonder.restaurant/

Shree Krishna Vada Pav, Cardiff city centre, Indian street food review

Despite the money spent on regenerating Cardiff’s “Canal Quarter”, it’s still one of the dreariest parts of the city centre.

I’m sure that the canal’s passing resemblance to an open sewer instead of a picturesque watercourse might be something to do with it.

At the same time, over the last decade the city’s focal point has increasingly migrated towards the Hayes, leaving the Capital Centre and its surrounding area as a bit of a ghost town.

So, the arrival of the Shree Krishna Vadha Pav (SKVP), a colourful Indian street food chain with over 20 outlets across the UK, has certainly brightened up the area.

Even more exciting than SKVP’s colourful exterior is the fact that its Harrow branch was named in the usually reliable Infatuation’s top 21 Indian restaurants in London. And the always reliable Andy Hayler enjoyed his visit to the Hounslow branch.

SKVP’s interior matches its exterior - it’s bold, bright and colourful with a fun Indian street food vibe.

Shortly after they opened in May 2026, we visited for a takeaway vada pav and only recently managed to visit for a sit-in meal. 

SKVP has a colossal menu of over 90 vegan and vegetarian dishes that includes pavs, frankie rolls, curries, Indo-Chinese dishes, dosas and chaats, with the focus on dishes from the Maharashtra region of India where Mumbai is located. There are some good value weekday deals and multibuys on offer too, including a meal deal that offers any vada pav, a chaat and a drink for £8.95.

Ordering is done at the till and there’s then a reassuring wait for your meal to be prepared. Except for the vada pav, which come out lightning fast. At £2.95, they’re cracking value and really well worth naming a restaurant after.

A super soft and squidgy white roll is home to a chonky soft spiced potato pattice that’s smeared with tangy tamarind chutney, creamy coconut chutney and the crunch of crispy batter bits. If you want a fiery kick of chilli, then there are accompanying deep fried green chillies to nibble on. I’d happily eat two of these for £6 as a well sized lunch.

On the drinks front, a mango lassi is ice cold with plenty of fragrant tropical fruit and a creamy tang of yoghurt. Masala chai has a lovely hit of warming spice combined with a sweet creaminess. They’re both very good examples of their type.

 The other star of the meal is an excellent mutter paneer curry (£8.95), which is billed on the menu as an “all-time favourite dish”. Golden crusted triangles of creamy paneer and sweet tender peas are bathed in a thick tomato-based curry sauce that thrums with spice and the richness of butter. On the side are two whopping soft parathas.

We ordered a couple of chats to share too. Both are good but we agree that Pooja’s versions are better.

Samosa chat (£7.75) combines a crisp crusted samosa filled with soft spuds and sweet peas sat in a thick, well-spiced yellow pea curry topped with tangy tamarind chutney, diced red onion, and the crunch of spiced peanuts. It’s a very tasty bit of comfort food.

Dahi puri (£7.25) are little flavour bombs – the crisp puri shells are filled to the brim with soft potatoes, creamy yoghurt and topped with crunchy sev, spiced peanuts and tamarind chutney.

We both really enjoyed the well-priced vegetarian street food at Sree Krishna Vadha Pav, and their namesake dish is a particular highlight. If you’re looking to try one of “London’s top 20 Indian restaurants” then head down to Cardiff’s Canal Quarter and save yourself a train ticket to the Big Smoke. 

The Details:

Address - Shree Krishna Vada Pav, 111 Queen Street, Cardiff CF10 2BH

Web - https://skvp.co.uk/

Telephone - 07459 938454

Bosco, Cardiff city centre Italian restaurant review

FOMOOF is a very specific type of fear of missing out that I suffer from. It's food, of course.

Whenever someone posts about a delicious looking sandwich / burger / curry / anything edible (delete as appropriate) from somewhere in Cardiff that I haven't tried before, I invariably develop the urge to eat the same thing as soon as possible.

But, I suffer from FOMOOF the most when Mrs G goes out for a meal without me. So, when Mrs G planned an Italian meal at Villaggio with a friend, I decided to take myself out for dinner at Bosco to calm my FOMOOF.

Located on the High Street, Bosco opened in Cardiff city centre at the end of 2025 and is part of a small independent chain of five pizzerias and trattorias spread across the southwest of England and Wales.

The first thing that’s worth saying about Bosco is just how stunning their dining room is. In fact, I can’t think of many nicer spaces in Cardiff. With its dark wood panelling, sweeping bar, atmospheric lighting, and banquette seating, it oozes mid-century Italian style.

Their extensive menu comprises pizza and pasta as well as small and large plates. But between 12pm and 6pm on a weekday, they offer an excellent value three courses for £22. Available is a selection of three starters, mains and dessert, including arancini, ribollita and Swoon gelato.

On the drinks front, a goblet of smooth and chunky Sicilian Il Barroccio Rosso (£6.50) was a lovely house wine. I’d have gladly seen off a couple of glasses.

To start, a naughty take on courgette fritti saw thick batons of the tender squash coated in a light and grease free batter. Whilst they were a little low on seasoning themselves, plenty of flavour came from a drizzle of sticky hot honey and a flurry of savoury grano padano cheese.

Onto my main, and a very generously proportioned margherita pizza was well topped with fruity tomato sauce, fragrant basil and creamy mozzarella. 

Whilst this Neapolitan style pizza had the expected leopard spotted crust and very good aeration, it also had a nice crispness that I think resulted from a dusting of semolina flour.

Finally, a proper slab of tiramisu combined light mascarpone cream, soft sponge fingers that were well soaked with coffee and the boozy nuttiness of amaretto, and dusted with cocoa. It was an excellent example of one of my all-time favourite desserts.

I had a delicious and cracking value early dinner at Bosco and it makes me all the more keen to go back to try their main menu. Most importantly, it assuaged any FOMOOF that I had from Mrs G eating out without me.

The details:

Address - Bosco, 14 High Street, Cardiff CF10 1AX

Web - https://www.boscopizzeria.co.uk/pages/restaurants/cardiff

Telephone - 02921 111 345

Zylia, London Greek Cypriot restaurant review

Greek and Cypriot food seems to be having a bit of a moment. 

Well, that’s at least according to the trend reports I’ve read in work and judging by the number of Greek and Cypriot restaurants that we’ve been to in London lately. During two previous trips we had meals at Oma and Agora and on our most recent visit we tried out Zylia. 

Located on the edge of the newly opened Arcade Food Hall in Covent Garden, Zylia bills itself as a “Greek Cypriot taverna” and is one of the city’s hottest new openings in the last few months. 

It’s owned by Athenian-born chef Nick Molyviatis, the co-owner of Singburi and former head chef of Kiln, Agora and Oma, alongside Cypriot restaurateur Barry Karacostas. 

Zylia’s dining room is pure sunshine vibes with its knick-knack adorned picture rail, woven lampshades, wafts of smoke from the charcoal grill and myriad beers cooling on ice. 

Their menu comprises of a mix of mezze, salads and grilled meat and fish. At the bottom end of the grilled meat scale, chicken souvlaki weighs in at £13.50 whilst a sharing beef chop with Corfu sofrito sauce will set you back £68. 

A gargantuan bottle of ice cold Keo lager immediately put me in a holiday mood. At £7 for a 630ml bottle, it was belting value for central London too. Mrs G kept things classy with a glass of crisp Three Bowls Assyrtiko (£9.50). 

There was a little bit of a wait for starters as the till system had gone down. So, we were brought complimentary olives (£5) – an excellent mix of preserved lemon charged green olives and grown-up savoury black olives.

Next followed a couple of dips, the standout of which was creamy and salty taramosalata (£7) topped with the crunch of carob rusks. 

A chunky charred aubergine and pepper dip (£7.50) was a bit subtle on the smoke but it was packed with fresh green herbs.

They were accompanied with a generous basket of very good mixed breads (£6) - pita, flatbread and a sesame loaf, all with a compelling kiss of char.

A Greek salad (£14.50), which included sweet tomatoes and crunchy cucumber and a nuggets of salty and tangy feta cheese, let the quality of the produce do the talking,

Sheftalia (£14), caul fat wrapped pork sausages, were plump and juicy things. The coarsely minced squat sausages sang with green herbs and spices. 

Finally, (£15) beautifully tender sweetbread saganaki were sat in an emulsified citrus spiked sauce. Unfortunately, it was a race against time to eat them before the sauce made their crisp crumb soggy.

We were impressed by the summery cooking at Zylia and the rise in popularity of Greek and Cypriot food is a trend that I can most definitely get on board with. 

The Details:

Address - Zylia, 6 Bedford Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E 9HZ
Web - https://zyliataverna.com/
Telephone - 020 3837 5719

Akara, Borough Market, London West African and Brazilian restaurant review

I've not eaten much West African or Brazilian cooking before, so I can’t exactly tell you the difference between a Nigerian akara osu and a Brazilian acaraje.

So, my assessment of the reimagined akara on offer at the eponymous restaurant in Borough Market is going to be about as nuanced as a seagull assessing the relative merits of French fries compared to triple cooked chips.

All I can say is that these deep-fried black bean fritters are bloody tasty and so too is the rest of Akara’s West African and Brazilian cooking. Thankfully, their menu also includes a helpful glossary to provide a primer of dish components like kokoro yaji and noir yassa.

Owned by restaurateur Aji Akokomi, Akara holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand whilst its sibling restaurant Akoko holds a Michelin star. Located in a cavernous, converted railway arch with huge bifold doors, Akara is a cool and airy space to spend a summer’s evening.

We were catching up with a group of friends and so ordered a load of dishes to share. We focused on Akara’s snacks and small plates, but eye-catching larger plate include grilled pork feijoada (£24) and cod fillet moqueqa (£24). Whilst I was lost in conversation, Akara’s spice and texture packed cooking couldn’t help but draw my attention back with each mouthful.

On the booze front, we kicked off with a pair of excellent cocktails - a fruity and boozy Akojo (£13) made with Planteray coconut and pineapple rums and a citrus packed Caiprinha (£13). We followed it up with a bottle of super fruity Jumi-Juma Moldovan Chardonnay-Riesling (£45) and schooners of Lost and Grounded Keller Pils (£6).

Bowls of crisps were both great – green plantain lengths (£5) with an aubergine sauce and spiced cassava chips (£6) with kelewele spice topped cashew sauce.

My favourite of the picky bits, however, were a quartet of soft and airy sinasir rice pancakes (£5) which were accompanied by nutty black bean hummus with a deceptive chilli kick.

Akara, the restaurant’s headline dish, were most definitely worth naming the restaurant after. Golden, crisp and fluffy crumbed, the savoury black-eyed bean fritters were stuffed with a variety of fillings, including sweet barbecue prawn (£12) and shreds of slow cooked beef short rib (£12). They were excellent dipped in a savoury Senegalese hot sauce.

It’s saying something when the rice is the standout dish of a meal. But Akara’s efike rice (£8) was so good that it could also appropriately be named epic rice. Served in a striking cauldron with an equally impressive wooden spoon, the fluffy fried grains were turbocharged with the decadent umami-intensity of coconut, shellfish and chicken broth.

Smoky chicken alata skewers (£20 for two) with a sticky, sweet and fiery scotch bonnet glaze were superb. And so too was garnish of crisp seeds and crushed chicken skin.

Nuggets of yielding, slow-cooked lamb dibi (£14) were accompanied by a tangy mustard onion sauce.

Tender barbecued aubergine (£14), meanwhile, was crowned with crispy kale and paired with a slightly sweet carrot sauce and a vibrant Senegalese green herb and chilli rof paste.

Blushing pink and char-kissed flat iron steak (£14) was good but arguably the weakest link in the meal as I did find a few bits a little too chewy. Accompanied by kulikuli yaji, a spicy Nigerian peanut powder, it certainly wasn’t short of flavour.

For dessert, a squidgy warm plantain cake (£9) was accompanied by milk ice cream and smoked butter sauce. Combining toasty caramel and sweet fruit notes, it was an excellent sticky toffee pudding and banana bread hybrid.

With its reasonably priced spiced-laden cooking, cool setting and friendly service, Akara is exactly my kind of restaurant. It’s another big win for Borough Market’s excellent restaurant scene and it’s certainly given me the taste to try more West African and Brazilian cooking.

The Details:

Address - Akara, Arch 208, 18 Stoney Street, Borough Market, London SE1 9AD

Web - https://www.akaralondon.co.uk/

Telephone - 0203 8615190