Vicino, Pontcanna, tapas and cocktail bar review

All hail the picky bits.

I’m a big fan of Spanish and Italian bar culture where you can enjoy a couple of drinks accompanied by some tapas or cicchetti.

It’s a very civilised way of getting sozzled and a fine way to enjoy lots of little different things to eat as you meander between bars.

Which brings me to Vicino, the new Mediterranean tapas, wine and cocktail bar from the team behind Sonder. Meaning ‘neighbour’ in Italian, it’s unsurprisingly located across the road from its vibey Pontcanton mothership, a restaurant which has taken the city by storm since opening twelve months ago.

Billed as “somewhere small bites turn into big nights”, the cosy venue was already buzzing in the middle of the afternoon of their first Saturday in business.

Vicino offers a big selection of cocktails and wines by the glass as well as a few beers and ciders. Mrs G got stuck straight into the Veuve Cliquot champagne (£13) whilst I tried a couple of their long drinks. A grown up yet refreshing Garibaldi (£12) was the standout, combining Campari, blood orange and basil. A slightly less complex Levriero (£12), made with grappa, white port and grapefruit, was still lovely.

Vicino’s food menu is a collection of mostly cold nibbles, charcuterie and sandwiches. It’s a lot less involved than the food on offer at Sonder and most definitely the kind of thing you can pick at over a few drinks.

The first thing to turn up was a slice of tortilla (£5) and it was the first dish that had caught my eye on the menu too.

The combination of golden eggs, caramelised onion sweetness, a dusting of salty cheese and poky aioli was very good. But, I thought there was a bit too much bite in the spuds so that it didn’t quite cohere into a soft textured whole. Mrs G of course disagreed and enjoyed the texture contrast.

Tuna tartare crostini (£7.50) were my favourite of the dishes we ate. Crisp and fatty golden toasts were topped with a meaty dice of raw tuna and avocado that were seasoned with the zing of lime and fresh coriander. I could have smashed a dozen of them.

Home fried earthy crisps (£5) were delicious dredged through a light and creamy dip with a good funk of salty and smoky blue cheese. A salsa of tomato, olives, peppers and onion brought freshness to the plate.

A sweet and flavoursome salad of heritage tomatoes (£5) were well dressed with good quality olive oil and vinegar.

From the sandwich and toastie section of the menu, we ordered a couple to share.

A pressed grilled cheese and leek sandwich (£7) was laden with oozy dairy and soft, sweet allium. It didn’t necessarily need the pot of sweet and umami burn onion ketchup on the side, but I gladly forked it straight into my gob.

Even better was a light and airy focaccia sandwich (£9) that was stacked with creamy stracciatella, salty cured prosciutto and grassy olive oil.

 

Vicino is another vibrant addition to Pontcanton’s hospitality scene and the team behind Sonder have hit the mark once again with their follow-up. We had a lovely time grazing and boozing over lunch but it’s most certainly the kind of place you don’t need to go for a meal. You could just as easily pop in for a drink and a snack, then see where the rest of the evening takes you, which might happen to be across the road to Sonder.

The Details:

Address - Vicino, 72a Llandaff Rd, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9NL

Web - https://www.instagram.com/vicino.cardiff/

Thomas the Brasserie, Pontcanna, Cardiff restaurant review 2026

I’ve always been a big fan of Tom Simmons’ refined cooking that combines precision technique with familiar and comforting flavours.

But, Thomas by Tom Simmons, his eponymous restaurant in Pontcanna, always felt like a special occasion kind of place rather than somewhere you’d pop into on a regular basis. That is unless you’re an international rugby player or a member of the cast of Casualty. 

What with the ongoing cost of living crisis putting a strain on people’s wallets and nearby competitors offering more accessible pricing in relaxed settings, I wonder if it’s been the catalyst for the relaunch of the restaurant as Thomas the Brasserie. 

Alongside a lick of paint, crucially there’s been a reworking of the menu. Whilst many of Tom’s signature dishes thankfully remain, there’s now more of a focus on crowd pleasing dishes like roast chicken and chips, charcoal grilled steaks and pork chops, and short rib suet pudding. 

Most interestingly, there’s a rotating selection of well-priced daily specials with dishes including Welsh beef wellington (£20) on Wednesdays and steak frites (£20) on Mondays. So, it's a much more tantalising prospect for regular repeat visits. 

On the Saturday night we visited as a group of 8, both the upstairs and downstairs dining rooms were already buzzing when we arrived at 6.30pm, and it didn’t let up until we left at 9.30pm after a well-paced leisurely meal. 

On the booze front, we kicked off with a round of cracking cocktails – a clarified rum punch (£12) with a big hit of passion fruit and pineapple and a lovely creaminess was just the ticket on the sunniest day of the year so far. Mrs G was equally impressed with a hermosa (£13) that had major margarita vibes. We followed it up with a pleasingly crisp Villa Cosmiana Trebbiano (£47) and a Stone Castle Kosovan red (£40), which whilst very gluggable didn’t really have much complexity. 

To start, Mrs G ordered the tuna carpaccio (£15) from the raw section of the menu. Super fresh and meaty slices of tuna and ripe avocado were bathed in an absolute whopper of a marinade that combined citrusy ponzu, truffle, sesame and basil oil. Whilst it sounds like there was the potential for some flavour clashes, the sauce was very well-balanced and had us reaching for a spoon to scrape up every last drop. 

Having heard rave reviews about Tom’s mushroom parfait (£14) for a few years, I thought it was time to finally give it a go. 

A dome of super silky and creamy umami-rich mushroom pate was accompanied by dinky zingy pickled shimeji mushrooms and golden buttered toast. It’s no exaggeration to say this was every bit as good as the best chicken liver parfait I’ve eaten.

Thankfully Tom’s fried chicken (£8) is still a mainstay of the snack section of the menu so we ordered a portion for the table. Ridiculously crisp crumbed and juicy chicken pieces were topped with the zip of lime mayo and leaves of fresh coriander. 

Onto mains and Mrs G ordered the fillet of beef (£35) served rare as I’d poo-poohed her suggestion of the very well-priced chateaubriand special for two (£35pp including sides). Deep in flavour with a bang-on tenderness and dark crust, it was accompanied by a pot vivid green sauce with a good hit of herb (tarragon, I think). 

Another of Tom’s signature dishes that I’d still somehow never tried was his fish and chips (£26). A hunk of meaty and flaky pan-fried cod was accompanied by a bevy of tasty things – crisp batter scraps with a warming hint of curry, crushed sweet peas and a warm tartare sauce that was a essentially a beurre blanc flecked with salty pearls of fish roe and the balancing acidity of pickles and capers. 

On the side, a portion of Tom’s chips, were addictive little bricks of crisp and tender golden confit potato. 

A friend ordered the Brasserie Burger (£18), which was topped with melted Monterey jack cheese and Lyonnaise onions. He declared it to be a triumph that reminded him very much of a posh Big Mac. 

We ordered a couple of sides to share, and creamed spinach (£7) was as decadent as I'd hoped with a lovely richness of dairy and a hint of garlic and nutmeg.

A cauldron of creamy and well-caramelised Dauphinoise potatoes (£7) was a gargantuan portion. I thought it could have done with a twist of salt but Mrs G disagreed. 

Onto dessert, and a beauty of cheese selection (£14) was a cut above the usual predictable varieties. A lot of thought had gone into the accompaniments too – truffle honey, fig chutney, membrillo and an interesting array of crackers. 

I was laser focused on the salted caramel custard tart (£10) and it was absolute belter. A super fine and crisp pastry crust was laden with warm, thick and wobbly set custard that was heady with notes of toasty salted caramel.

We had an excellent meal at Thomas the Brasserie. With its more accessible pricing and menu of crowd-pleasing dishes, its relaunch can be chalked up as an unmitigated success. 

Tom’s comfort food is the type that you can enjoy without having to think too much about. But, if you do, then you can really appreciate the amount of thought and effort that goes into each dish. 

The Details:

Address - Thomas the Brasserie, 3 & 5 Pontcanna Street, Cardiff CF11 9HQ
Web - https://www.thomas-pontcanna.co.uk/
Telephone - 02921 167 800

Ogof, Pontcanna, Cardiff restaurant and wine bar review

Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Pontcansas anymore.

Of all the restaurants to open in Cardiff in the past few years, Ogof reminds me the most of places I’ve visited in the Big Smoke like Cafe Deco and 40 Maltby Street.  

It’s understandable really, as Ogof is the debut restaurant from Alex Vines, Zanna Clarke and Siôn Iorwerth. Alex, a big talent, who’s previously run a series of delicious pop-ups in Cardiff, has stints at 40 Maltby Street and Rochelle Canteen on his CV. Siôn, meanwhile, previously owned one of Vancouver’s first natural wine bars. 

Located in the Pontcanton hinterland, Ogof is based in the former home of Patagonia, La Cuina and latterly Poca. With its chalkboard menu of produce-led seasonal cooking, shelves laden with natural wines, modern minimalist interior and hulking retro hi-fi system, it’s a venue which radiates trendiness. 

Ogof, which means Cave in Welsh, takes its inspiration from the French “cave à manger” tradition of wine and food focused businesses. At lunchtime Ogof serves a pared back menu of sandwiches, salads and bakes. Whilst in the evening, there’s more substantial cooking on offer. 

With a lunchtime to spare on Christmas Eve, Mrs G and I took the opportunity to give their lunch menu a run for its money. 

But first, the wines. If you’re into all things funky and natural then Ogof’s selection will be very much up your street. There’s a trio of house wines on tap, a few specials by the glass and a big range of bottles to choose from. 

I really enjoyed a glass of cloudy Cerreto Malvasia di Candia (£8), which had plenty of fresh citrus. We also had glasses of Bovin Gamay d’Auvergne (£6.50) and a Domaine Einhart Pinot Blanc Chardonnay blend (£6.50) that Mrs G thought were highly quaffable. I liked them, but felt they were both a touch barnyardy for my taste.

Soft drinks really impressed. A fig leaf and lime cordial (£4) had a wonderfully coconutty and zingy thing going on. Whilst an excellent L'Antidote sparkling spiced Gamay grape juice (£5) was slightly reminiscent of chilled mulled wine. 

Onto the food, and a buttermilk fried pheasant sandwich (£12) saw a deliciously crisp and light crumbed focaccia stuffed with hunks of tender boneless bird coated in golden batter. Fresh slaw provided an excellent counterpoint. This was a corker of a sarnie.

An excellent riff on a Caesar salad (£9.50) combined a tumble of crisp radicchio and sprout tops with toasty-edged roast sprouts and sweet caramelised onions coated in a potently rich and creamy Caesar dressing. A snowdrift of savoury cheese and a scattering of crisp croutons completed the interesting and delicious salad. 

Alex Vines's veg cookery always impresses and a celeriac and apple gratin (£13.50) was no exception. Soft cubes of earthy celeriac and apple pieces were baked in a rich and savoury sauce made with cider, mushroom stock and cream that was topped with caramelised breadcrumbs. Leaves of radicchio, slices of cleansing apple and nuggets of funky Trefaldwyn blue cheese provided excellent contrast. 

Impeccably crisp, salty and fluffy fried potatoes (£5) were accompanied by a pool of golden aioli which delivered just right level of garlic honk.

Finally, a quince pie (£5), which was sat in a pool of cream, delivered festive vibes on Christmas Eve. A super short pastry case was filled with soft and fragrant pear like quince, sweet sultanas and winter spice, and topped with a buttery crumb. 

It was lovely washed down with cups of Welsh Brew tea (£2.50) and Hard Lines filter coffee (£2.50). 

We had a belter of a festive lunch at Ogof and I can't wait to return to try their dinner menu. It's great to see Alex Vines's precisely executed rustic seasonal cooking find a permanent home in Cardiff and Ogof is a great addition to the city’s restaurant scene.  

Update - 22/06/2026

When it came to deciding where to go for my birthday lunch this year, Ogof was the clear winner.  

After all, I can’t think of many more exciting menus in Cardiff at the moment and, since our last visit Ogof has deservedly been named one of Conde Nast Traveller’s Top New Restaurants of 2026. They've also just been added to the Michelin Guide. 

On a Saturday lunchtime, Ogof serves their full a la carte menu. So we were able to eat some more elaborate dishes than on our previous visit. 

Perched at the bar and supping a few ice-cold Kernel Table Beers, we kicked off our lunch with fresh out the oven focaccia (£3.50) with a seam of umami-rich laverbread. 

It was ace slathered with earthy beetroot borani (£5.50).

Golden cheddar fritters (£7.50), which sat in a pool of decadent fermented sweetcorn mayonnaise, were scattered with lightly pickled red chillies, grated cheddar and fresh corn salsa. I'll be ordering this every time I see it on the menu at Ogof. 

Charred and tender asparagus (£19), creamy manteca beans and wilted green garlic leaves were enrobed in a vibrantly herby green goddess sauce.

Herb-scattered and blushing-pink pork collar (£23) was served with braised baby broad beans and charred bok choi. The smoky grilled meat and stewed bean combo had major Greek taverna vibes.

For dessert, an old skool ricotta cheesecake (£9) with an amaretti biscuit base and toasted almonds was accompanied by harmonising fragrant and fresh poached rhubarb.

This was one hell of a birthday lunch. If you haven’t managed to visit Ogof yet then I’d highly recommend it. Alex Vines is a wizard when it comes to vegetable cookery - the local and seasonal produce he sources and the layers of flavour he adds, inevitably makes for a compelling meal.

The Details:

Address - Ogof, 11 Kings Rd, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9BZ
Web - https://www.ogofcardiff.co.uk/ 

Oriel's Modern Meat Shop, Pontcanna sandwich shop review

A good sandwich is one of life’s greatest pleasures. 

The interplay of contrasting textures, flavours, and temperatures all stuffed inside top-drawer bread make it the perfect handheld meal. 

However, just because a sandwich looks the business doesn’t mean it tastes the business. 

So many 'Grammable sandwiches cram in far too much filling, throwing the ratio of bread to filling out whack. And don’t get me started on buns and loaves that haven’t been engineered properly to contain their filling. 

Oriel’s Modern Meat in Pontcanna, a sandwich shop, pie purveyor, roast dinner rustler and meatmonger, certainly know what they’re doing when it comes to making a tasty sandwich. 

Owned by the same team as the excellent Oriel Jones butcher in Canton and run by the friendly Helen, they opened their doors on the former site of Cegin Oriel earlier this year. 

Mainstays on their menu include breakfast buns, carvery subs, ginormous sausage rolls, and a selection of cook at home meat and condiments. 

Out of the four sandwiches I’ve tried, Oriel’s Marry Me chicken focaccia, which is based is based on the viral TikTok dish of the same name, came out on top. When it was taken off the menu briefly during the summer there was a public outcry, and it was the first dish to sell out at their recent Sticky Fingers kitchen takeover. I can see why - it’s an addictive melange of naughtiness. 

Crisp crumbed chicken pieces were bathed in a proposal-inducing combination of cream, garlic, chilli, sun blush tomato and parmesan. Topped with even more parmesan and a few leaves of spinach, it was all crammed into a soft and squidgy focaccia. On the side was a well-sized pile of impeccably crisp and well salted fries. For a tenner you get a hell of a lot of bang for your buck.

A hella good breakfast bun (£8.50, served until 12pm) was a close second in the rankings. A sturdy yet soft crumbed challah roll was filled with a slab of 24 hour bacon, which was essentially ridiculously tender slow-cooked pork belly, a runny-yolked fried egg and an ooze of American cheese. A good squeeze of brown sauce provided vital cut through. 

The final filling, a golden wedge of hash brown, was impeccably crisp with a soft textured interior. I removed it from the bun as otherwise there's no way I would have been able to get the sandwich into my gob. 

Oriel’s sausage rolls (£5) are always a banker too. A monster of chorizo sausage roll was all meat killer and no breadcrumb filler. Encased in golden, flaky pastry, at the bottom of the well-seasoned sausage meat sat nuggets of paprika-spiced chorizo.

A spicy BBQ chicken melt (£8.50) was a corker of a special over the summer. A soft toasted sub was overflowing with tender chicken in a sweet and savoury BBQ sauce and topped with molten spicy cheddar. Once again, a handful of Spinach leaves gave the merest illusion of healthiness.

I also enjoyed guzzling their steak sandwich (£10), another menu mainstay, in the sunshine of Pontcanna Fields. 

More of that house-made soft crumbed focaccia was stuffed with well-flavoured steak slices and crisp salty fries dressed with creamy peppercorn sauce. A few of the steak slices were a touch chewy in places and so perhaps would have benefited from being cut slightly smaller and I would have loved some more of that peppercorn sauce to dunk my chips in. 

Oriel’s Modern Meat Shop serves just the kind of comfort food that I crave on a weekly basis. Fortunately, it’s a ten-minute walk from my work so I’m going to work my way through everything on their menu… or I might just order their Marry Me chicken sandwich on repeat. 

The details:

Address - Oriel's Modern Meat 221 Cathedral Road, Pontcanna, Cardiff CF11 9PP

Web - https://www.instagram.com/orielsmodernmeat