Saturday 13 August 2022

A few great places to eat an drink in Malaga, 2022


Malaga is one my happy places.

Located on the Andalucian coast in the south of Spain, it’s got everything I look for in a holiday destination. There’s amazing food, cracking wine and beer, sunny weather, wild flamingos, regular flights from Bristol, stunning architecture and well-priced city centre hotels with swimming pools.


We last visited Malaga around eight years ago and ate well but this time we were armed with some great recommendations from Paul Bobo, Bar 44's Owen Morgan and Edible Reading, meaning our food and booze experience moved up a few notches.

Over seven days we worked are way around a bunch of restaurants and bars; although it took a lot of restraint to not keep on going back to our favourite places time and time again. Here's where I recommend, ordered loosely by how much we enjoyed them.


Meson Iberico

Calle San Lorenzo, 27, 29001 Málaga

Situated on a side street a little bit away from the crowds, this traditional restaurant and tapas bar still seems to be permanently busy with locals and tourists. On one visit we perched at a windowsill and on another occasion we sat at a dinky table next to the kitchen.

We worked our way through a good range of their dishes with highlights including a lovely riff on an ensalada rusa, a mayonnaise-y potato salad flecked with pieces of plump sweet prawn. By the end of the holiday there was a risk that we were going to turn into an ensalada rusa.


Oxtail croquetas were loaded with intensely beefy bechamel.


Whole fried boquerones were crisp, grease free and gorgeously fresh.


A plate of crisp-edged sauteed mushrooms with a big oomph of garlic were an example of beautifully executed simplicity.


Ruby red slices of jamon iberico de ballota melted in the mouth and had a lovely intensity of flavour.


Stupidly tender lamb skewers were bathed in an a moreish Moorish marinade.


La Cosmopolita

Calle José Denis Belgrano, 3, 29015 Málaga

This restaurant just screams class – Dani Carnero’s high end Spanish cooking combines traditional flavour combinations with modern technique yet manages to steer clear of any gimmicky bells and whistles. In addition, their service is immense and we enjoyed excellent Marquis de Riscal white wines by the glass served from the magnum.

A toasted sandwich combined the lightest of crystal bread stuffed with vibrant red fatty tuna belly, fresh salad and a gently warming spiced mayonnaise.


Crab omelette saw this humble dish elevated to the greatest heights - oozy top quality eggs were topped with a whopping amount of earthy brown crab meat flecked with soft sweet onions.


Iberian pork tenderloin was one of the best bits of pig I've ever eaten. Crimson of flesh, crisp of crust and exceptionally tender, it was accompanied by a deeply savoury sauce made with miso and oyster sauce and dotted with earthy shiitake mushrooms.


For dessert, the brilliantly named tocino de cielo (aka sky bacon) more than lived up to its billing. This silky caramelised confection was truly heavenly and an accompanying dollop of zesty lime cream was the perfect companion.


Taberna Uvedoble

Calle Alcazabilla, 1, 29015 Málaga

Despite looking like a characterless chain café, this tapas bar serves some of the most interesting and flavour-packed cooking we enjoyed on our trip.

Squid ink vermicelli had a lovely fish stock intensity and was flecked with baby squid and accompanied by potent allioli. It was a cracking meal in itself.


Bronze-crusted buttery sweetbreads were bathed in a glossy meat sauce and served with a roasted pumpkin puree fragranced with honey and anise.


 A ludicrously indulgent éclair was stuffed with shreds of pork and topped with meaty mayonnaise.


A belter of a meatball fell apart into shreds of yielding oxtail and was accompanied by bonus chips to mop up all those meat juices.


La Cosmo

Calle Císter, 11, 29015 Málaga

The younger sibling of La Cosmopolita, La Cosma has a more modern vibe but is still grounded in big flavoured Andalucian cooking without any gimmicks. We enjoyed a cracking lunch sat at the bar looking into the open kitchen.


A riff on a gilda, the iconic pintxo inspired by actress Rita Hayworth, added sweet roast tomatoes and fatty tuna belly into the mix alongside a warming guindilla pepper and salty anchovy.


An ensalada was probably the best of the entire trip; zhushed up through the use of soft mashed potato and meaty flakes of hake, it was an excellent riff on a classic.


Steak-like slices of blushing red tuna belly were draped over crisp fries, piquant fried peppers and a citrusy and piquant green pepper emulsion.


An excellent sirloin of steak was cooked beautifully and coated in crisp golden crumbs. I'm not sure it was an improvement on a simply grilled steak but it was damn fine.


A slab of chocolate mousse tart, inspired by Paris' 3 Michelin star L'Ambrosie, was commendably light textured with notes of dark fruits and a thin pastry case.


But a light and creamy corn flan was uniquely delicious – each mouthful reminded me of both popcorn and corn tortillas whilst a corn crumb added extra crunch.


El Cortijo de Pepe

Plaza de la Merced, 2, 29012 Málaga

The logo of a man chasing a pig at this old skool tapas bar feels rather fitting. Sat in the bar we enjoyed excellent chorizo cooked over charcoal as well as tender skewers of pinchitos morunos with a lovely warmth of cumin.


El Carpintero

Calle Beatas, 32, 29008 Málaga

With pictures of Jesus covering the walls, you certainly feel like you’re being watched whilst you enjoy the food and booze at this excellent and great value traditional back street tapas bar.

We worked our way through hulking pieces of chorizo, light textured salt cod fritters, excellent earthy mushroom croquetas and citrus-twanged pork belly shavings.
 

Casa Mira

Calle Marqués de Larios, 5, 29015 Málaga, Spain

There are massive queues in the evening at this first glass ice cream parlour but it seems to be a lot quieter in the daytime. Take a ticket from the dispenser and wait for your number to be called.


We particularly enjoyed a boozy Malaga flavour made with the province’s sweet dessert wine and dotted with soft raisins.


La Guacamole

Calle Cárcer, 1, 29008 Málaga

The margaritas served at this Mexican bar are worth the visit alone - served with a chilli salt rim and poured at the table into a glassful crushed ice, they're just the ticket on a balmy night.


A trio of tacos were pretty good too - standouts were a puebla, combining chicken in a deep-spiced mole sauce, and al pastor with marinated pork and balancing pineapple.


Casa Aranda

Calle Herrería del Rey, 2, 29005 Málaga

If you’re looking for churros then this traditional café is the place to head. Served piping hot from the fryer with a mug of thick hot chocolate, they’re a real treat. But for me they’re a one off treat rather than and everyday breakfast.


We also regularly visited the nearby Café Framil for breakfast where we enjoyed cracking value jamon and tomato and tortilla sandwiches washed down with iced coffees.

Central Beers

Calle Cárcer, 6, 29008 Málaga

This craft beer bar really captures an American vibe but there are plenty of great Spanish craft beers on tap from breweries like Basqueland and Peninsula.


Their burgers kick ass too. An American combined a sturdy soft-crumbed bun with a seriously juicy and well-flavoured pink patty, crispy bacon, oozy cheese and barbecue sauce.


Birras Deluxe is another craft beer bar worth checking out. There we enjoyed beers from Basqueland and Arpus.


Chiringuito El Cachalote

Paseo Marítimo Pablo Ruiz Picasso, 29016, Málaga

Dotted along the seafront of the city, chiringuitos specialise in fish cooked over charcoal and are lovely spot to dine al fresco. We visited El Cachalote as it was one of the closest to our hotel.


A massive salad of tomatoes alinado was judiciously seasoned with garlic.


It was all that was needed to go alongside a generous skewer of blistered sardines that were simply seasoned with lemon and salt.


Los Patios de Beatas

Calle Beatas, 43, 29006 Málaga, Spain

We enjoyed some excellent wines by the glass at this wine-focused bar and restaurant, including a particularly memorable stone fruit-packed La Ola del Melillero made with a blend of Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel.

Modern tapas was mostly very tasty. Meaty pulpo a la brasa was accompanied by smooth mashed potato and a pokey paprika spiked mayonnaise.


"Lasagne" saw a crisp deep fried pastry shell sandwiching a deeply savoury tuna stew and a drizzle of buttermilk like dressing.


Marisqueria Cerveceria La Peregrina

Calle Villanueva de Tapia, 2, 29004 Málaga

We had a meal of two halves at this bright and modern fish restaurant. A plate of fine and crisp tortillitas de camarones were studded with baby shrimp whilst sizzling hot gambas pil pil were seasoned with buckets of chilli and garlic.


Perhaps we caught the deep fat frier before it was fully up to temperature but both calamari and octopus pieces were overcooked and disappointingly rubbery.

La Tranca

Calle Carretería, 92, 29008 Málaga

This dive bar oozes charm with its retro record sleeve-adorned walls and singalong playlist. Excellent empanadas were stuffed with a pokey concoction of four cheeses and fiery gildas were constructed from pickled peppers, anchovy and olives.


We weren’t so successful on the booze front. A copa of vermut blanco turned out to be Cinzano (next time I’ll ensure I order what they’re serving from the barrel) whilst a glass of white wine was just about drinkable.


Vertical

Calle Juan de Padilla, 13, 29008 Málaga

Spanish natural wines are the focus at this contemporary bar and we enjoyed some delicious varieties by the glass including an apple-packed La Vie y Sone viognier from Barranco Oscuro, Andalucia's oldest Natural wine maker. But, service was painfully slow.


Sobrasada, honey and cheese on toast was delicious even though it reminded me a bit of a Pizza Express Sloppy Giuseppe.

2 comments:

  1. You really can't go wrong in Malaga, food-wise. I'm there 3 or 4 times a year. From cheap and cheerful through to really fine, high-end dining, I've never had a bad meal.

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