In fact, it’s the finest looker of the Mint & Mustard family - more spacious and sophisticated than both the Whitchurch Road branch and Chai Street on Cowbridge Road East.
The focus of the menu is still the refined take on Southern Indian food which Mint & Mustard brought to Wales back in 2006. At the stove is a chef of some pedigree - Yousufuddin Mohammed, a former head chef at two of London’s most highly regarded Indian restaurants, Dishoom and Bombay Brasserie.
The menu reads well. Very well in fact. I’d have gladly ordered any dish going.
Crisp poppadom shards (£3) were served with a trio of homemade chutneys - a punchy lemon variety, a sprightly mint number and a sweet and an earthy beetroot type which would have benefited from a touch of spicing.
Pata Chaat (£4.95), one of the chef’s signature dishes, was absolutely stonking. Crisp, lightly battered leaves of baby spinach were topped with creamy yoghurt, tangy tamarind chutney and cleansing jewels of pomegranate.
Kasundi paneer tikka (£5.50) saw three soft pieces of smoke-licked cheese marinated in a well-balanced combination of mustard and yoghurt.
Onto mains, and the standard was just as high.
Banjara lamb (£11.95) comprised of yielding, slow-cooked pieces of meat bathed in a deep deep flavoured, tomato-based sauce fragranced with curry leaf.
M&M pan fried sea bass (£13.95) was a stunner in looks and flavour. A pair of golden fish fillets, perched atop a pile of curry leaf-infused mashed potato, were surrounded by a deceptively spicy creamy sauce made with raw mango, ginger and coconut.
Thoran (£4.50) was a light and crisp contrast to the main dishes. Finely sliced, al dente green beans, shredded cabbage and grated carrot were tempered with coconut and mustard.
Coconut rice (£3.75) was fluffy as can be.
A fig and coriander naan (£2.75) was pretty frigging special - light, crisp and buttery it was studded with soft fig pieces. Whilst peshwari naans can be cloyingly sweet this avoided dessert territory.
For pudding, a pair of piping hot gulab jamun (£4.95) were soaked in fragrant syrup.
I went full glutton and ordered the dessert platter (£7.50). The standout was smokey tandoori roasted pineapple marinated in honey and saffron. A super-creamy mango creme brûlée and a warm, gooey, yet fairly run of the mill chocolate fudge cake completed the trio.
Dinner at Mint & Mustard Penarth was superb. Alongside Bar 44 & Restaurant James Sommerin, Penarth’s restaurant scene is in excellent health.
Disclosure - I was invited to Mint & Mustard, all food and drink was complimentary.
Address - Mint & Mustard Penarth, 33-34 Windsor Terrace, Penarth CF64 1AB
Telephone - 02920 700500