I think it’s pretty telling that with all the restaurant options in London, our friends keep on going back to Primeur time and time again.
Sure, it’s in their neck of the woods in north London. But it’s more than the fact it’s just local.
I think it’s got something to do with its charming setting in an old garage where the concertina doors pull back to bring the outside in.
And I think has something to do with their daily changing blackboard menu of unfussy seasonal sharing plates which prioritise big flavours over prissy presentation.
It’s also probably got something to do with their interesting selection of wines by the glass. On our visit, we knocked back two types of fizz, Cremant D’Alsace and a Xarel Lo blend, before sinking some Austrian Riesling and a Valencian orange Macabeo.
It’s not just my mates who are fans either, it’s currently one of only 39 Michelin Bib Gourmands (which recognise good value and good quality cooking) in London. As I’ve grown increasingly weary of fine dining, it’s an accolade which I look for more closely than a Michelin star.
As a group of four we ordered a bunch of plates to share. Some were more successfully divisible than others…
Dark crusted sourdough was served with golden tangy butter.
Curried cauliflower (£10.50) was Coronation cauliflower operating under an alias. Nuggets of lightly pickled cauliflower were joined by a creamy yoghurt dressing, curry spices, crunchy almonds and sweet raisins. You can coronate almost anything as far as I'm concerned, and it’ll taste all the better for it.
A beautifully dressed salad (£10) of bitter leaves and tomatoes was zhuzhed up by the addition of anise twanged tarragon. Crunchy fried breadcrumbs meanwhile brought a bit of filth to proceedings.
Oily, tender and blistered skinned mackerel (£26.50) was a beautiful specimen. Served with salty sea vegetables, radishes and a creamy potato salad with plenty of dill, it was the standout dish of the night.
Warming spiced whopping lamb chops (£27.50) were accompanied by chickpeas, fresh mint and a smoke-licked aubergine puree. However, the excellent flavour combination was let down by the pieces of meat which were inconsistent in their tenderness.
Stock rich borlotti beans (£10.50), rainbow chard, a well-crusted cube of polenta and a flurry of salted ricotta was exactly my type of compelling vegetarian cooking.
The kitchen had run out of cherry clafoutis so they’d knocked up a chocolate torte (£9) instead. And what a torte it was; as dreamily light and indulgently rich as you could hope for.
A crisp and chewy meringue (£9.50) was accented with passionfruit, berry coulis and a good dollop of cream.
We had a delicious meal at Primeur and I can see why it’s a place which warrants repeat visits. I’d certainly be back if it was around the corner from my house.
However, if you’re looking for this style of unfussy and flavour-packed seasonal cooking in Cardiff then I’d say a trip to Vines by Alex Vines is essential.
The Details:
Address - Primeur, Barnes Motors, 116 Petherton Rd, London N5 2RT
Telephone - 020 7226 5271
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