Polentina, Bow, London Italian restaurant review

It says a lot about both me and London that this my second review of a restaurant in a functioning clothes factory.

Firstly, that I’m clearly a sucker for trying something a bit different and vibey. So, when a good friend said he’d heard excellent things about Polentina in Bow, I was quick to put my hand up for lunch.

Secondly, that the financial burden of opening a hospitality business in London inevitably means that people are going to get creative when it comes to location… and that’s to led to more than one person landing on a clothes factory. 

Whilst Walthamstow’s SlowBurn takes over a denim factory by night, Polentina serves as both an Italian restaurant and a canteen for the workers at ApparelTasker, a sustainable clothing factory.

So, as you tuck into a plate of wild duck with white bean stew and gaze through a vast window into the busy sewing room, members of staff pop in for a bowl of something hearty for lunch.

Whilst you might expect an Italian restaurant on an East London industrial estate to serve a crowd-pleasing menu of panini and spag bol, Polentina’s menu is in fact remarkably uncompromising.

On offer are a mix of dishes that I’ve never heard of like Insalata di Tardivo e Borlotti and Minestra di Farro e Castagne as well as an interesting selection of natural wines.

 

It's also exemplified by both the starter that me and my mate ordered - deep fried calves’ brains on toast (£8). It tasted a lot less scary than it sounds. Pieces of soft bread and creamy, fatty brain, whose richness reminded me of sweetbreads, were coated in a light batter. It could have been a bit one note if it wasn't for the presence of pickled chanterelles and a grating of bergamot zest, which brought acidity and fragrance to the dish.

 

My main proved a long-held belief that lasagne (£21) is best rested rather than served piping hot from the oven. Firstly, because it manages to retain some structural integrity rather than slipping and slopping all over the place. And secondly because it doesn't scorch your mouth meaning you can guzzle it down with enthusiasm. Polentina's lasagne verdi was exemplary, with perfectly distinct layers of green pasta, a meaty well-seasoned ragu, a rich and creamy bechamel and a crisp crusty cheesy topping.

My mate was also impressed with his simple yet luxurious hazelnut flecked taglioni (£25) topped with shavings of fragrant Autumn truffle.

I wasn't going to get dessert as I had another three courses to eat in less than four hours. But then they had blu di capra (£12), a blue goats cheese, on the menu. Assertively salty, funky and creamy, and very much in the gorgonzola grain, two giant slabs were served alongside juicy and fragrant pieces of soft-baked persimmon.

I was super-impressed by Polentina’s uncompromising seasonal Italian cooking. In fact, the next time I come across another London restaurant that’s located in a clothes factory, I’ll be the first to book a table.

The Details:

Address - Polentina, 1 Bowood House, Empson St, London E3 3LT
Web - https://www.polentina.com/
Telephone - 07481 602750