Tuesday, 24 July 2018

The Little Chartroom, Edinburgh restaurant review

Semolina, corned beef, sardines, oxtail, tongue, smoked eel, turnip, black pudding and blancmange.

I have a soft spot for many of the old fashioned, unfashionable dishes that turn the stomachs of many people. I take after my dad in this respect; I’m an indiscriminate glutton.

This brings me to the Little Chartroom on Edinburgh’s Leith Walk which opened last month. Owned by a wife and husband team who are the former head chef and restaurant manager at Dominic Jack and Tom Kitchin’s Castle Terrace, this cosy and stylish neighbourhood bistro serves a lunchtime menu of interesting small and larger modern Scottish dishes. In the evening there’s a more traditional starter, main and dessert format. 

Complimentary sourdough from Twelve Triangles bakery, located around the corner from the restaurant, was first rate. Crisp, chewy and tangy it was delicious with a good smear of salted butter. 

A haggis sausage roll (£4) looked and tasted the part - the well-spiced delicately offaly mince was enrobed in golden pastry. An accompanying blob of turnip ketchup was more of a smooth mash but it had an acidic note which nicely balanced the richness of the plate. 

Ox tongue (£8) is one of my favourite things and I wish it was on the menu in more places. A generous thinly sliced plate of the buttery meat was served atop a creamy yet richness balancing celeriac Waldorf salad punctuated by cleansing grape and the crunch of walnut. A slab of toasted sourdough provided heft to the dish. 

Onto dessert and a silky smooth dark chocolate ganache in a thin chocolate pastry case (£7.50) was adorned with pretty raspberries. Raspberry sorbet was pleasingly slightly tart and super smooth. 

Lunch at the Little Chartroom was delicious and served by a super-friendly team. With new restaurant openings of this calibre, the Edinburgh dining scene must be in rude health.

The Details: 

Address - The Little Chartroom, 30-31 Albert Place, Edinburgh, United Kingdom EH7 5HN
Telephone - 0131 556 6600

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