Sunday, 8 July 2018

A weekend break in Bordeaux

How can I sum up Bordeaux?

Well, we didn’t have a bad glass of wine during our weekend break in this beautiful city on the banks of the Garonne river. From red to white and rose, nothing disappointed. 

Other than the booze, the architecture is stunning.

The giant gothic cathedral, the iconic Place de la Bourse, and the hulking gatehouses of the Porte Cailhau and Grosse Cloche are all absolute beauts.

We also moseyed around the Cité du Vin, a museum of wine which resembles a giant decanter. We didn’t bother with the €20 exhibition as we’d heard mixed reports. 

The Marché des Capucins was buzzing on the Saturday we visited with the biggest crowds reserved for the groaning platters of oysters and fruit de mer served by Chez Jean-Mi. 

Anyway, you're probably here for the nosh so here’s where we ate and stayed during our trip: 

Belle Campagne
15 Rue des Bahutiers, 33000 Bordeaux, France

I love the locavore ethos at Belle Campagne. 

All of their seasonal produce is sourced from within 250km of the city and the vast majority from within 100km. Their eclectic decor, interesting wines by the glass, friendly serving team and tasty small plates are all great. 

An enjoyably rare piece of rump steak (€11) was served with a textbook bearnaise. 

A lovely bit of hake (€9) was perched in a huge pool of intense crab bisque alongside tender lentils which cleverly added bulk to the dish. 

Golden duck fat chips (€4,50) were served with a seriously rich aioli packed with garlic. 

Seasonal vegetables (€6) included sweet baby onions, carrots, spinach and caramelised new potatoes coated in a generous drench of butter. I’d happily eat vegetables this good on their own as a meal. 

Dessert saw sweet and fragrant strawberries (€7) covered with cubes of cleansing cucumber and a good dollop of thyme flecked whipped cream. The combination of sweet and savoury was lovely.

Le Flacon Saint Michel
9 Place du Maucaillou, 33800 Bordeaux, France

Le Flacon is an uber-cool wine bar that wouldn’t look out of place in Hackney. We had a bunch of lush wines by the glass and a selection of small plates to share. 

Bitesize bits of croque monsieur (€7) were fragranced with the indulgent funk of truffle. Tuna rillettes (€6,50) was brightened up by the freshness of lime and ponzu. It was lush slathered over crisp baguette.

Soft and creamy butter beans (€6) were lifted by the zest of preserved lemon and drizzled with top notch olive oil. 

Chicken terrine en croute (€6) saw tender flesh seasoned with warming mustard. The pastry case lacked a little crispness but it was still a highly effective booze sponge. 

Finally, a killer tonka bean panna cotta (€5,50) was ridiculously creamy and fragrant with an epic wobble. 

Bouchon Bordelais
2 Rue Courbin, 33000 Bordeaux, France

Our meal at Bouchon Bordelais (€39 for 3 courses) was a bit of a mixed bag. Whilst most dishes were lovely, a couple really disappointed.

A deep flavoured snail and bacon ragout was loaded onto mushrooms and wrapped in more bacon for good measure. 

However, a chilled green soup (made I think with pea and asparagus) lacked any oomph or seasoning. 

Mains were both a success. A crisp crusted fillet of beef was brilliantly rare and marinated in a seriously savoury soy-based sauce. Garden peas, green tomatoes and buttery caramelised new potatoes were lovely accompaniments. 

Across the table, a veal chop was joined by a flavour-packed artichoke and sage croquette, grilled asparagus and a light aubergine and tomato ragout. 

My dessert was a showcase of Valrhona chocolate - a super smooth and not too sweet cremeux, light mousse and thin tuille sat atop a short biscuit base. The pud’s richness was balanced by a slightly sharp berry coulis. 

But, a “famous” cheesecake was woeful. Far too set and devoid of flavour, it remained uneaten. 

62 Rue Abbé de l'Épée, 33000 Bordeaux, France

I’ve already wittered on about Garopapilles but our €35 Michelin-starred lunch at this wine shop and restaurant was the standout meal of our trip to Bordeaux. 

I would seriously recommend booking a table. 

La Maison des Vignes
27 Rue des Vignes, 33800 Bordeaux, France

We stayed in a gorgeous little bed and breakfast (£91 a night) called Maison des Vignes, located just a few minutes’ walk from the Marché des Capucins. 

An architectural curiosity, the building is made from two separate houses which were previously separated by a narrow alley. 

Stylishly decorated and owned by a really friendly couple, we loved our breakfasts of fresh fruit salad and bread served with homemade fruit compotes, yoghurts and granola. 

Bordeaux is a cracker of a city. If you're looking for a weekend away featuring great wine, food and architecture then I highly recommend it.

The Details:

We flew direct from Bristol to Bordeaux via easyjet. 

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