Thursday, 21 January 2021

The Heathcock, Cardiff, pie takeaway review

Pi is a constant. It is transcendental and never ending in its brilliance.

Sorry, I got that wrong.

Pie is a constant. It is transcendental and never ending in its brilliance.

Whether it's apple, steak and ale, rhubarb, mince, corned beef, feta and spinach, short crust, suet, filo or puff, pie is the answer to many a problem.

Thankfully, the Heathcock pub in Llandaff has just the pies we need for these times.

Available for collection on Fridays and Saturdays, they offer bake at home pies for one (£12) or two (£22) with sides included. You can pre-order easily online and collection takes place via a clever little homemade hatch at the front door of the pub. 

The week I ordered there were two varieties of pie available: steak and ale and chicken, bacon and leek. Enamoured by the idea of sharing one massive pie, Mrs G steered our decision towards the chicken and bacon.

Nine inches in diameter with a suet crust lid spilling over the top, the pie took just over 30 minutes to bake in the oven. It was a torturous wait but more than worth it. 

Filled with tender shreds of chicken, salty nuggets of bacon and sweet leeks brought together in a white sauce heady with tarragon, its golden lid was crisp and light with a soft interior. The extra crisp edges overhanging the case were inhaled as luxury finger food.

Before you interject and say that it can’t be a pie as it didn't have a base I’d like to pre-empt you with a) yawn, it tasted lush b) it avoids any risk of a soggy bottom c) if Fergus Henderson says it's a pie then all other arguments are moot.

Braised red cabbage studded, the perfect foil to all that richness, was sweet and savoury with a delicate balancing acidity. Its hit of thyme and glug of red wine brought extra complexity and decadence.

Thick buttery mash soaked up all of those sauces a treat. 

The Heathcock makes truly epic pies. If you’re craving a hearty dinner of the highest order then get involved.

The Details:

Address - The Heathcock, 58-60 Bridge St, Cardiff CF5 2EN

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