With its distinctly Noble Rot-esque logo and an Italian-focused menu with shades of Brawn, Bristol’s Marmo takes influences from two of the UK’s best wine-focused restaurants. So it was always odds-on that it would be right up my street.
Located in Bristol city centre, Marmo’s high-ceilinged dining space oozes cool with its eclectic posters, colourful shelves of wine bottles and open plan kitchen. But, the friendly serving team who looked after us for the night gave the place a warm and down to earth atmosphere.
Marmo’s wine list focuses on the natural and there’s a good selection available by the glass if you’re looking to dip your toes. A glass of Domaine Bohn L'Indigène 2019 orange wine had heaps of citrus, a lovely dryness and a little funk whilst my friend knocked back a pear-twanged Domaine La Luminaille Luminaris 2018.
Quality house sourdough (£2.50) with thick golden cultured butter was an essential order to accompany smoked cods’ roe (£5.50). Savoury, smoky, salty and creamy with a good drizzle of olive oil, there's something so addictive about the stuff and it’s a must order whenever I see it.
Gnocco fritto (£7.50), crisp and slightly flaky deep-fried dough parcels, were delicious draped with garlicky and peppery salame rosa which had the gloriously soft texture of a mortadella.
Tender asparagus (£9) was dressed in a classy savoury silky tonnato sauce. It was a clever change to the classic veal version of the dish and one which I’d be keen to repeat at home.
Well-flavoured and seasoned ruby red beef tartar (£9.50) bathed in a confit egg yolk. It was given an additional savoury hit from the use of anchovy colatura (aged Italian fish sauce).
First class agnolotti (£14.50) were stuffed with velvety pink fir mashed potato and topped with a meaty wild boar sauce drenched in parmesan. Leaves of mint dotted throughout provided a clever lift to this top notch piece of comfort food.
A ricotta fritter (£7) was basically a high end cannoli and I was 100% down with it. A super crisp and thin pastry shell was loaded with sweetened creamy ricotta and strawberries macerated with elderflower.
A good dollop of rich and thick chocolate mousse (£7) was paired with a toasty molasses-esque salted caramel, a quenelle of clotted cream and crisp feuilletine flakes. It was a rich treat.
Marmo is the kind of restaurant I could come back to time and time again. Its technically accomplished cooking, hip setting, friendly service and ace natural wines by the glass all hit the mark.
The Details:
Address - Marmo, 31 Baldwin St, Bristol BS1 1RG
Telephone - 0117 316 4987
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