Over the years, I’ve become increasingly assured about the types of restaurant which I know I like.
It's the places which serve top notch seasonal produce, that don't mess around with it too much, where the portions are decent, the atmosphere is relaxed and there's an interesting selection of booze.
It's not too much to ask for really but it's surprising how few restaurants really nail it.
Upstairs at Landrace in Bath is a restaurant which most definitely fits the bill.
Located upstairs from a craft bakery that sells superb cardamom buns, tarts and sourdough bread amongst other things, their compact chalkboard menu is strewn with the sort of dishes I want to eat.
We worked are way through glasses of bruised apple-like Ajola orange wine (£8.50), a citrusy and zesty Gruner Veltliner blend (£5.50) from Kamptal Kollectiv and a strawberry juice-esque pinot noir blend (£5.50) from the same Austrian winemaker.
Complimentary slices of sourdough were crisp of crust, soft and tangy of crumb and served with a dollop of golden butter. It was delicious, as you’d expect from a bakery which specialises in sourdough.
Parmesan fritters (£6) were epic, and that's me being restrained in my praise. Light and thin battered nuggets were filled with a silky, deeply cheesy and salty sauce and topped with a flurry of even more cheese. Woof.
A simple yet corking salad (£9) combined lightly bitter radicchio, creamy and funky Edmund Tew cheese, earthy beets and crunchy pine nuts.
Charred, smoky, tender and sweet calçots (£7) were paired with a coarse romesco with a lovely hit of nuts and roasted red peppers. It’s the first time I’ve ever tried this close relative of the spring onion and I’ll most certainly be seeking them out next time they’re on the menu at Bar 44 in Cardiff.
Onto mains and a generous ray wing (£25) was bathed in nut brown butter cut through with the acidity of caper and cleansing slices of blood orange. Soft and sweet anise-twanged fennel pieces and buttered agretti greens completed the cracking plate.
A first rate blushing pink, bronze crusted pork collar chop (£25) with melting fat was bathed in a luxurious sauce with plenty of mustard, cream and meaty goodness. Coarsely mashed buttery and peppery swede and greens rounded off the belting dish.
Puds didn't disappoint either.
A dark chocolate tart (£8) with a light and delicately bitter filling and thin biscuity pastry was lovely dipped in a pot of tangy creme fraiche.
A dark chocolate tart (£8) with a light and delicately bitter filling and thin biscuity pastry was lovely dipped in a pot of tangy creme fraiche.
A trifle (£8) was layered with delights - fragrant rhubarb, soft soaked sponge, silky egg rich custard, vanilla fragranced cream and crunchy pistachios.
We had an absolutely top notch meal at Upstairs at Landrace and it’s the kind of restaurant which ticks all of my boxes.
The Details:
Address - 61A Walcot St, Bath BA1 5BN
Telephone - 01225 424722
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