Casa, Bristol Italian restaurant review

It's indicative of the way hospitality is going that Bristol's Michelin-starred Casamia transformed earlier this year into Casa, a more casual Italian restaurant.

In are a lot more covers, a bright and minimal dining space, and a menu of technically accomplished yet less tweezery food.

Out is the £180 a head no choice tasting menu and a concept, which despite its acclaim, had become unviable due to increased costs. 

It's a challenging time for hospitality and re-inventing to survive is clearly the way forward.

And even I have to admit that I've grown a bit weary of worshiping at the alter of fayne dayning where the last dish of a 20 course tasting menu is served on the stroke of midnight. 

Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, the brains behind Casa, has most certainly got form when it comes to high-end takes on continental cuisine. His tapas bar, Paco, is located just next door and is a Michelin-starred corker of a restaurant. 

Casa's expansive menu is divided into antipasti, cured meats, cheese, pasta, fish and meat dishes. It's the kind of place it would be possible to visit regularly and order something different every time. 

Having asked for advice on the must order dishes, our fabulous server enthusiastically and knowledgeably talked us through a bunch of recommendations. We followed every tip except for one and the result was superb. 

A glass of skin contact Slovenian Vipava Roza Pinot Gris (£13) was very grown-up with some sherry-like oxidative qualities. A 'Barbabianca' Garganega blend (£11) was complex yet very gluggable; its acidity and bit of funk reminding me of the wild beers which I love so much. 

Focaccia (£6.60) was beautifully soft crumbed and rich with olive oil - it took a lot of restraint to save it for use as a mop for all the sauces yet to come. 

The standout of the entire meal was a high-end take on a Smiths Cheese Moment (£4 each) - super crisp and fine semolina shells were filled with a light and silky cream which delivered an intense wallop of funky and salty Parmesan cheese. I'd love to see what this kitchen can do with their own take on a Bacon or Scampi Fry.

Another great beer snack were olives all'ascolana (£8). Served straight from the fryer, vibrant green olives were stuffed with chicken mince with a good hum of chilli and coated in a light batter. These were a recent special on the menu at McDonald's in Italy and I'd fully endorse them being added to the menu in the UK.

Mortadella (£10) was the only dish that wasn't explicitly recommended - whilst it was a very enjoyable example of my favourite luncheon meat, it was no better than other shop bought versions I've had and certainly wasn't a patch on the stuff from London's Manteca. 

Double agnolotti (£19) was a masterclass in pasta making technique. Paired pockets contained sweet and smooth pumpkin and walnut puree on one side and ricotta twanged with the funk of gorgonzola on the other. Dressed with a mix of brown butter and parmesan, I was a big of its savoury-sweetness but Mrs G felt it was a bit too saccharine. 

Penne-like garganelli (£18) were topped with coarse fennel sausage meat, crisp breadcrumbs and another rich and buttery sauce - if there was a trend starting to emerge in the meal it was one of decadence. 

A fillet of gurnard (£20) was bang on point - meaty, juicy and flaky of flesh with perfectly crisp skin, it was dressed with a zingy green herb sauce. 

Braised beef cheek (£26.50) reminded me more of the kind thing I'd have expected to see on the menu at Hang Fire rather than an Italian restaurant. In fact, a bowl of bread and butter pickles on the side would arguably have provided some welcome acidity. The spoonably-tender low and slow cooked piece of meat was bathed in a thick meaty sauce with a good thrum of chilli. 

'Not quite chicken Milanese' (£28) was the kind of dish which makes me see why people bother with chicken breast when there's always thigh. A gloriously juicy brined breast had been cut in two and the top half turned into a light garlicky mousse which was scattered with a flurry of crisp golden breadcrumbs.

A side of wilted spinach (£8.50) was as rich as vegetable dishes come; it was probably equal parts fat and greenery. A big hit of seasoning was delivered by a pesto with plenty of parmesan funk and throat-tickling garlic. 

Desserts were riffs on two classics.

The thinnest and crispiest of cannoli shells (£6.50) was filled with a smooth mix of ricotta, mascarpone and rhubarb puree. The tart and fragrant fruit cut through the richness of the cream cheese beautifully. 

Tiramisu (£9.50) was as light as it comes but also delivered a seriously boozy kick of marsala wine. 

We had a fabulous meal at Casa and their indulgent, skilful yet unfussy Italian cooking is the kind of food which I could eat time and time again. However, with a bill for two coming in just shy of £250, it's a restaurant which is still very much in special treat territory.

The Details:

Address - Casa, The General, Lower Guinea St, Redcliffe, Bristol BS1 6FU
Web - https://www.casabristol.co.uk/
Telephone - 0117 959 2884