How many times should you visit a restaurant before reviewing it?
At least three times whilst wearing a disguise and booking under a pseudonym like former New York Times critic Ruth Reichl?
Or maybe just once, like most national restaurant critics in the UK?
I understand the argument for multiple visits, as it allows you to judge a restaurant’s kitchen and service on its consistency.
But at the same time, this blog is a hobby and I’ve got a lot of restaurants that I plan to visit before my arteries clog up.
It’s in this context that I found myself back at Sopra 73 in Whitchurch, a French-Italian-Welsh restaurant which I gave a glowing review to after one visit in its early days last year whilst working at WalesOnline. Mrs G has subsequently been back for two further excellent meals without me.
This time we visited on a Saturday night for a friend’s birthday and we got off to a shaky start after being sat for ten minutes without any offer of a drink or a menu.
When Mrs G finally retrieved some for herself (menus not drinks), I was pleased to see it was packed with the kind of gutsy cooking you’d expect from head chef Padrig Jones, who previously led the kitchen at the legendary Le Gallois in Pontcanna and also worked under Marco Pierre White and Stephen Terry. Gorgonzola souffle, Italian fish soup, pigs cheek cacciatore and a refined take on a cassoulet were just some of the rib-sticking dishes available.
Sopra 73’s wine list steers away from the pedestrian and an excellent bottle of biodynamic Ruiz Jimenez white rioja 2018 (£29) had plenty of citrus and a little bit of nuttiness.
Service picked up after our initial hiccup and starters arrived fairly promptly. A bowl of steaming mussels (£9) was bathed in a sauce of big flavours – savoury shellfish liquor, honking garlic and white wine. But the mussels themselves had lost their plumpness and a few were on the gritty side.
Rosemary-twanged focaccia was a little bit tight and dryly crumbed and a disc of Netherend butter was fridge-cold.
A whole burrata (£9) took some encouragement to give up its creamy inner. Accompanying rocket, caponata, pomegranate seeds and chocolate oil were all excellent accompaniments, but Mrs G wanted more of each.
Things got back on track in a big way with our mains and it’s an early contender for the coveted title of “Best Lamb Dish of 2023”.
A colossal Le Creuset pan cocooned a beauty of a Forch Farm lamb shoulder for two (£45). Slow-cooked for 8 hours, its tender and flavoursome flesh nudged off the bone with ease.
Glossy gravy, rustic pieces of soft and sweet root vegetable, buttery mash and a clever mint sauce twanged with the earthy spiciness of cumin were dream accompaniments for this rustic yet refined dish. Pleasingly, it was such a generous portion that I had enough to take home for my dinner the next day too.
A side dish of vibrant cavolo nero (£4) was topped with a thick tomato sauce with a massive hit of anchovy and whiff of chilli. It was a great accompaniment to the lamb.
Desserts were more of a mixed bag.
A superb silky, sweet and sharp lemon posset (£7) was topped with nuggets of crisp almond brittle, light meringue pieces and passionfruit pearls.
A bargainous sticky toffee (£5) promised so much with its toasty dark sugar-twanged sauce and dollop of creamy ice cream. But the sponge itself sadly leaned towards the dry side.
So, what can I say about Sopra 73?
After two meals of differing success, I’m still willing to stand by my original verdict that it’s a great addition to Cardiff’s restaurant scene. But, perhaps I need a third, fourth or fifth visit…?
The details:
The lamb pic just grabs you I’m booking today
ReplyDeleteWe also pretty much felt the same way as you Ed when we visited last month for a mid-week dinner although like you my husband had the mussels and they were definitely plump and juicy on that occasion and he loved the dish. It was a perfectly ‘nice’ meal but not a place I would rush back to or recommend to friends as a ‘must visit’. As you said, maybe we need to give it another go to really reach a final conclusion.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteHas this now closed down?
ReplyDelete