An unassuming student pub in the middle of Cathays isn’t perhaps the first place you’d expect to find one of the best roast dinners in Cardiff.
But, it’s a lot less surprising when you consider that the kitchen is run by the former head chef of Heaney’s, one of Cardiff’s most acclaimed restaurants.
Steve Bennett has been head chef at the Flora for over a year now and we were very impressed by his internationally influenced street food menu when we finally checked it out in February.
Arguably, it’s his Sunday roast at the Flora which has generated the biggest buzz and it’s highly advisable to book a table through DM on Instagram a good week or so in advance.
The Flora’s booze selection is a bit less exhilarating than the food on offer. A glass of Sauvignon Blanc was the kind of thing which Mrs G drank at The Square when she was 18 years old whilst Beavertown’s Neck Oil is as exciting as the beer selection gets.
The Sunday lunch menu offers a choice of two starters, four roast dinners, and one dessert. With starters and desserts costing around a fiver and the roasts around £18, it’s very good value. Even more so when you consider the quality of the produce which is used.
To start, plump and sweet, lightly battered tempura prawns (£6) were served alongside a fiery sriracha mayo that was balanced by the light zing of pickled cucumbers and onions. It was the ideal light plate before a hefty portion of meat and carbs.
There’s no hiding when it comes to the quality of heritage tomatoes (£6). These were beautifully ripe and flavoursome and served at the correct temperature rather than fridge cold. Accompanied by a creamy as you like dollop of burrata, a vivid green and peppery rocket pesto, and the crunch of seeds, it was a great combination of flavours.
Onto the main event where the was a choice of beef, lamb, a bit of both, or a nut roast. You can probably guess what I ordered…
Mrs G had the roast rump of ex dairy cow (£18) and it was unquestionably the star of the show. Sourced from the brilliant Meat Matters and cooked to a beautiful ruby red, it was an excellent bit of meat with an intensely beefy flavour and light chew. Mrs G thought the seasoning was a touch too high, but I thought it was fine.
The accompaniments on the plate were also spot on - a beautifully sweet and fudgy carrot with a lovely spicing, wafer thin slices of curried courgette, a dollop of silky and buttery mashed potato, and crisp and fluffy roasties (which could perhaps have been even more shatteringly crunchy).
The standout side was a crisp and soft Yorkshire pudding that was stuffed with shreds of tender and glossy brisket. Serve a couple of these alongside a jug of gravy and it would be an instant street food sensation.
I had the best of both (£20) and I don’t need to bang on any more about that beef. Pretty pink slices of lamb leg were very tasty and impressively tender but they were quite delicate in flavour compared to the beef and once again the seasoning was fairly high too. The lamb was complemented incredibly well by a super fragrant fresh mint puree and a naughty crisp fritter of much stronger flavoured shredded lamb shoulder.
Alongside the roasts were generous jugs of thick and meaty gravy. I hate it when all you get is a stingy single pour.
A sharing bowl of cauliflower cheese was both slightly too al dente and watery at the bottom. And the cheese sauce lacked a big honk of cheese and kick of mustard.
We ordered two porky extras, which were totally unnecessary. But, I’m never going to say no to extra meat.
A pair of XL pigs in blanket (£3) were clearly made with very good quality sausages and streaky bacon.
A cuboid of sage fragranced stuffing (£2.50) was the pick of the two. It was a lovely slab of sausage.
Absolutely stuffed, we ordered one dessert to share.
Dainty dollops of super thick and rich chocolate mousse (£5) and a soft and toasty chocolate brownie were balanced by fragrant and juicy charred pineapple pieces. A scattering of sea salt added extra complexity. It was a dessert which looked and tasted like the kind of thing you’d expect from a fine dining restaurant, yet it only cost a fiver.
We had an excellent Sunday lunch at the Flora with just a few minor quibbles. Despite its location in Cardiff’s student heartland, in terms of bang for your buck their roast dinner is up there among the best in the city.
Address - The Flora, 136 Cathays Terrace, Cardiff CF24 4HY
Telephone - 029 2009 0525
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