Having a huge appetite is a heavy burden to carry. And I’m not just talking about those additional pounds of blubber around my waist.
Whenever we’re out for dinner, I’m often the last to admit defeat if there’s spare food on the table. In fact, people know me so well that they regularly offer me the leftovers from their plate.
What can I say, I hate food waste, and I’m determined to do my bit for the planet one mouthful at a time.
This brings me to the Baring pub in Islington, the most recent scene of my valiant guzzling prowess.
Co-owned by Rob Tecwyn, former head chef of Dabbous, and Adam Symonds, former manager of the Bull & Last, the Baring was named the highest new entry in the Top 50 Gastropubs list when it opened its doors in 2023. It currently sits at 17.
On a busy Friday night, the intimately lit venue had more of a restaurant than a boozer vibe. Throughout our meal, a procession of people looking for a walk-ins were turned away; perching at the end of the bar with a pint and a pickled egg certainly didn’t seem like an option.
But, the Baring’s beer selection is certainly befitting of a top drawer pub. On offer are draught beers from the likes of Lost & Grounded, Five Points and Siren as well as sharing bottles from Tilquin and Burning Sky.
A pint of Lost and Grounded’s Wanna Go to the Sun pale ale set me back a well-priced for London £6.50. Mrs G meanwhile knocked back a glass Ham Street Wines Pet Nat (£11) from Kent.
I’m always in the market for a devilled dish and the Baring’s mussels on toast (£12) were no exception. A slice of toasted sourdough topped with plump meaty bivalves and dill had soaked up a buttery, mirepoix-studded sauce with a warming kick.
Charred purple sprouting broccoli and sprouts (£13) were joined by pine nut praline, creamy labneh and sweet juicy soaked sultanas. With a ton of interesting flavours and textures this was a lot more exciting that your typical salad.
For main, I ordered Iberico pork slices (£31), which were served an excellent medium-rare and had a great depth of flavour and tenderness. But the exterior might have benefited from a lick of char, especially as it was billed as barbecued.
The slices of pork sat on top of a sweet and warming spiced mound of pulled pork, which was a lovely foil for crisp slices of lightly pickled celeriac and slightly bitter cime di rapa. A condiment of anchovy cream delivered a barrage of umami and salt - it was very good in tiny dabs but too much when eaten by itself.
Super well-crusted and tender with mouth-melting fat and a good aged beefiness, it was an excellent bit of beef. A side of salsa verde provided a big wallop of citrus and acidity. Much like the sauce accompanying the pork it was good in tiny doses, but with a steak this good I don't think it was really necessary.
A giant bowl of outstandingly crisp and fluffy double or triple-cooked chips were paired with a honking garlic mayonnaise.
Finally, hyper-charred and crisp-edged yet soft hispi cabbage was bathed in a rich AF butter sauce. This was as good and as rich a hispi cabbage dish as I’ve ever come across.
Having eaten my own main course and half of Mrs G’s, I was of course full. But, I was looking forward to the sticky beer cake (£9) more than any other dish of the meal.
It was worth finding room for. Light and squidgy slightly bitter beer sponge was soaked in a fruity caramel sauce and served with a pot of cold vanilla custard on the side. Impressively, nothing was too sweet, yet it delivered all the satisfaction of a sticky toffee pudding.
Following my feat of heroics, I needed a very long lie down. We had a belter of a meal at The Baring and I loved its laid back yet intimate vibe. If you’re in the market for a posh pub feed in the Big Smoke, then I can highly recommend it.
The Details:
Address - The Baring, 55 Baring Street, London N1 3DS
Telephone - 020 7916 5861
