Back in 2021, when I wrote a review of Whitchurch Road’s Vivo Amigo, an enjoyable yet eyebrow raising Indo-Mexican fusion restaurant, I asserted that some culinary crossovers make a lot more sense than others.
Whilst Indo-Mexican food was just about understandable, I declared that Indo-Italian cooking was a step too far.
Fast forward to 2025, and the people behind Vivo Amigo have only gone and launched Stella Italia…an Indo-Italian restaurant.
Whilst my scepticism for Italian-Indian cuisine was only slightly diminished, my curiosity got the better of me and I of course had to check it out.
Located next door and interconnected to Vivo Amigo, Stella Italia’s name, signage and interior don’t give much away in terms of the fusion cuisine on offer. With its red-checked tablecloths and paintings of Venice, this could be any other Italian restaurant. Perhaps a name like Just like Naana used to make or The Gateway of Italy would provide a more obvious indication.
Stella Italia’s menu doesn’t go all in when it comes to fusion cooking either. Their starters and desserts are solely Italian, with familiar options including calamari fritti, sundried tomato arancini and tiramisu. When it comes to the drinks selection, however, draught Cobra and mango lassi provide a nod towards India.
It’s only with Stella Italia’s main dishes where the Indo-Italian fusion cooking is really unleashed. Whilst there’s a selection of classic pizza and pasta, Indo-Italian options include spaghetti mutter keema, penne butter chicken, and butter chicken curry calzone, which also comes filled with biryani.
To start, a trio of coarsely ground and loosely packed beef polpette (£6.50) were tender, honked nicely of garlic and were sat in a thick and fruity tomato sauce with a good grating of savoury parmesan. On the side, soft crumbed pieces of sourdough garlic bread were a lovely mop for all that sauce. This was a very tasty starter albeit the kind of thing you’d find in many Italian restaurants.
Onto the mains and I can only apologise that I that I didn’t order saag paneer spaghetti. That’s one step too far even for my usually adventurous palate.
However, Stella Italia’s Neapolitan style pizzas really are very good indeed. Made with slow-proofed sourdough, they have a thin base and a soft and airy crust. They’re certainly better than some from places I’ve visited who profess to serve authentic Italian pizzas.
A chilli paneer pizza (£12.95) was also very tasty but similar in flavour with its use of sriracha mayo, coriander and curry leaf. Arguably, it was less successful because of the cheese-on-cheese action, which meant it was richer yet less complex in flavour. Whilst the cubes of lightly spiced and sweet paneer were very tasty, I think they could have taken a bigger hit of spice. However, they did work very well with crisp mixed peppers and red onion slices that added to the chilli paneer vibe.
Gnoccho fritto (£4.95) were the most interesting sounding of the desserts on offer. However, the mound of dense miniature doughnuts were rather unlike the light and airy examples that I've eaten elsewhere. Still, at least they were crisp and grease free and lightly dusted with cinnamon sugar, drizzled with sweet chocolate sauce and accompanied by a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
A cup of frothy, sweet, creamy and well-spiced masala chai (£2.95), however, was excellent. It’s worth popping in just for a cuppa if ever you fancy a brew.
I really enjoyed Stella Italia’s pizzas and their front of house team are excellent. Whilst Indo-Italian cuisine will still be eyebrow raising to many (including myself), I think perhaps Stella Italia has missed a trick by not leaning in even further into their fusion cooking. Why not throw the kitchen sink at it and serve starters like biryani arancini or masala spiced panelle with chutneys as well as desserts like chai spiced tiramisu or cardamom panna cotta? After all, I'd imagine a lot visitors are there because they're curious to try Indo-Italian food.
The Details:
Address - Stella Italia, 136 Whitchurch Road, Cardiff CF14 3LZ
Telephone - 029 2297 2017
No comments:
Post a Comment