I'm not sure if I've ever visited a restaurant that feels more geared up for couples than Covino in Chester.
With counter seating dominating the compact dining room, a handful of tables for two, and a menu of small plates, it’s a restaurant that feels tailormade for twosomes.
On the night we visited, one couple were browsing holiday destinations on their phone; another pair were getting acquainted over a rump of lamb; whilst one duo had brought along their very well-behaved dog for a quiet night. And Mrs G and I were clearly being very nosy.
Covino’s compact menu of eclectically influenced small plates reads exceptionally well, with dishes ranging in price between £11 and £29.
With a cellar of over 130 different wines, everything we drank by the glass was very enjoyable - a saline Monte pio Raxeira Albarino (£9.50) and a briochey Domaine du Vieux Pressoir Saumur Brut (£10.50) were the highlights. A slightly whiffy Cuvée Kéké Beaujolais (£13.50) and a punchy Sobrero Nebiolo (£15) were tasty but not quite as good.
Food was an absolute rip roarer from the first mouthful. Impressively it was all knocked up by a single chef and kitchen porter. As a result, and understandably, the same dish was sent out simultaneously to different tables to make things more manageable for the kitchen.
Light and crusty warm sourdough (£6) was generous in portion and served with a smear of butter with a light honey sweetness and funk of truffle.
A confit duck special (£16) was the next dish to arrive. Crisp skinned and tender of flesh it was served in a bowl of borlotti beans bathed in a creamy sauce with a compelling hit of orange that cut through the richness of the meat. I think this might be the first time I’ve had duck a l'orange and I can see what all the fuss is about.
Halfway through guzzling our duck, a snack of cheese gougères (£10) showed up. Piping hot, the light choux buns were topped with a flurry of nutty comté cheese. They were one heck of a bar snack, and I’d have preferred them to have been served that way, rather than having to masquerade as a side dish for the duck.
Next up, golden edged meaty scallop pieces (£14) were sat in their shell and drenched with a huge-flavoured peppercorn sauce with a good throat tingling heat. I've seen quite a few places serving fish with peppercorn sauces lately and I can totally see why – in fact, everything should be served with it.
A whopping disc of crisp-edged earthy boudin noir (£11.50), which Covino import from France, was served with a trio of belting accompaniments - a glossy meaty sauce, sweet petit pois and the crunch of caramelised walnuts.
Last but no means least, a bowl of cavatelli pasta (£16.50), which had the dense yet tender texture of a pasta-gnocchi hybrid, were bathed in a super savoury and meaty pork ragu with layers and layers of flavour.
If we'd left it there it would have been a nigh on perfect meal. But, as I can never say no to dessert, I plumped for a brioche tiramisu (£8.50).
All I can say is there's a reason why brioche isn't normally used for tiramisu. The bread had soaked up all the dessert’s moisture making it dense, watery and claggy. Layers of mascarpone cream and cocoa powder were lovely, but they couldn’t compensate for that brioche.
Ignoring dessert, we had an excellent meal of interesting and well-priced food at Covino. The front of house team were really friendly and engaging too. Despite being tailored for couples, Covino is so much fun that I’m sure you’d have a whale of a time if you came along as a solo diner or larger group.
The Details:
Address - Covino, 118 Northgate Street, Chester CH1 2HT
Web - https://www.covino.co.uk/
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