Saturday, 17 September 2022

One O'Clock Gate, Dinas Powys restaurant review


The business model for One O’Clock Gate in Dinas Powys seems like such a good idea that I’m surprised it’s not more common in villages, towns and cities across the UK.

Take a rarely used function room in a golf / rugby / lawn bowls / cricket / snooker club and let it out to a fledgling food business, thus providing an additional revenue stream and improved food and drink offering for the venue whilst helping a new venture get off the ground when overheads are so high.

Located in Dinas Powys Golf Club, One O’Clock Gate (named after a well-known landmark on the golf course) started as a pop-up takeaway during the pandemic. On the back of its success, it transformed into a sit-in venue in April this year. I don’t know what the space looked like before but they’ve done a lovely job of creating a modern lounge-restaurant-bar space which is as suited for daytime brunching as it is for evening dinner and cocktails.


Whilst there’s smashed avocado and toast available in the mornings from Wednesday to Sunday, really it’s all about their daytime and evening menu of Asian-inspired burgers and small plates. Influences are drawn from Korea, China, Vietnam and Japan with miso caramel fried chicken, Hoisin BBQ beef burgers, edamame beans with togarashi salt, and banh mi all featuring.

The booze selection is a cut above the pedestrian, with local craft beers on offer from Crafty Devil and Tiny Rebel, whilst a creative selection of cocktails included a mango margarita (£8) with plenty of tropical fruit and citrus.


On the Saturday night we visited, the large dining space was packed meaning that it took a fair amount of time for our food to arrive. We didn’t mind as we were catching up with a group of mates but it’s worth bearing in mind if you’re planning on visiting during peak hours.

However, everything we ate was worth the wait.

A handsome Korean-style fried chicken burger (£11.95) was the clear winner of the two burgers. A sturdy yet soft toasted challah roll was filled with a hyper-crisp crumbed and exceptionally tender chicken thigh coated in a sweet, sticky and slightly spicy gochujang glaze. Toppings added layers of flavour from a fresh Asian slaw, to micro coriander and pink pickled onions.


A Teriyaki beef burger (£12.95) wasn’t short of flavour either. A thick and deeply meaty dry-aged beef patty had an excellent crust from its dalliance with a ferocious heat and it was dressed with a savoury and sweet Teriyaki glaze. Whilst the patty was served a still juicy well done, it would have been even better with a bit of pinkness. Tangy cheddar, slaw, pickles and Kewpie mayo completed the lovely burger.


An overflowing bowl of crisp fries (£2.95) were dusted with chilli salt with a good poke of spice.


Apple sesame slaw (£6.95) had heaps going on from its crisp batons of Fuji apple, red and white cabbage, carrot, beansprouts and coriander to a toasted sesame and lime dressing with plenty of zip and zing.


Honey sriracha cauliflower (£6.95) was another of the standouts of the meal. The meaty brassica pieces were coated in an impeccably crisp panko crumb and drenched with a sweet, sticky and spicy chilli glaze.


Onto dessert and sadly they’d sold out of an ube (Filipino purple yam) ice cream cookie sandwich. So, I had to make do with a chocolate brownie (£5.95) from Cardiff’s Cup & Cake Bakery. With a crusty exterior, gooey centre, and good hit of chocolate, it was accompanied by miso twanged caramel and thankfully not too sweet white chocolate ice cream.


An affogato (£4.50), made with decaff coffee on request, was also lovely served with that smooth-textured white chocolate ice cream.


One O’Clock Gate’s spice-packed street food, good selection of booze and friendly atmosphere makes it a great place to spend an evening. I hope some more sports clubs in and around Cardiff take a leaf out of their book and let exciting food businesses* take over their unused spaces.
 
*Since writing this blog post, Kapow Ribs have announced they're opening a restaurant in the clubhouse at Pencoed Rugby Club.

The Details:

Address - Dinas Powys Golf Club, Highwalls Rd, Dinas Powys CF64 4AJ
Telephone - 029 2051 4128

1 comment:

  1. Lovely ambiance and food was awesome. I was down from Hertfordshire for the weekend and we have quiet a few independent burger and chicken places - the food was right up there and will definitely go back next time I’m down

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