Saturday 24 June 2023

Brother Thai, Cardiff restaurant review


Whenever we’ve walk past Brother Thai after a session on the craft beers at Pop ‘n’ Hops, it’s always been packed to the rafters. And on the couple of times we’ve tried to get a walk-in table, it’s been a fruitless endeavour.

But, on a sunny Friday night, and with Brother Thai’s compact back garden open for business, we were in luck.

One of the OGs of south Wales’s street food scene, Brother Thai’s non-traditional Thai cooking has built up a legion of fans over the last decade. It’s clear they’ve been just as popular since they made the transition to bricks and mortar in 2021.


Understandably, Brother Thai’s restaurant menu is more expansive than their festival offering. As well as their signature filled rotis, on offer there are rice bowls, a clutch of small plates and even a couple of desserts.

A pair of cocktails were both summery gluggers – a Rum Aroi (£9.50) combined spiced rum, sweet amaretto and a zip of citrus, whilst a Watermelon Wat (£4.60) saw ginger ale spiked with watermelon and lemon.


First to arrive was excellent Thai fried chicken (£8.50). With a super crisp yet thin spiced crumb and impressively juicy flesh, the pair of deboned thighs were liberally drizzled with spicy sriracha and balancing sriracha mayo.


Brother Thai’s sticky beef roti (£9) was always an essential order at street food festivals and here it was as compelling as ever. The crisp, flaky and buttery folded paratha was packed to the edges with tender pieces of big-flavoured beef coated in a rich, sticky and savoury spiced sauce which was reminiscent of rendang. Delicately pickled cucumber and red onion provided acidity and coriander leaves delivered an extra pop of fragrance.


A pad krapao rice bowl (£12) was Mrs G’s favourite dish of the night. The deeply savoury stir fry of tender chicken, green beans and chilli was heady with the aroma of holy basil. Jasmine rice and a frilly edged fried egg were excellent accompaniments.


Last up was a plate of deep-fried mushrooms (£8.50) masquerading as a laab salad. Heaps of fragrant coriander and mint, a good kick of chilli and a citrusy zing, made this a lovely vegan take on the classic meat salad.


It’s easy to see why we’ve found walk-ins so hard to come by at Brother Thai because their huge flavoured Thai street food is a real crowd pleaser. Next time we need to visit on a Sunday when they serve a rather delicious looking khao soi special.

The details:
Address - Brother Thai, 35 Whitchurch Rd, Cardiff CF14 3JN
Telephone - 029 2063 4834

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