There are a few iconic, longstanding London restaurants that have been on my hit list for a very long time.
However, as they've all been there for decades or even centuries, it never feels like I'm in any kind of great rush to pay them a visit.
Over the years, I've ticked off Rules, St John, the Quality Chop House, Quo Vadis and the French House. But places like Simpsons, Sweetings, the Ritz and Scott’s all remain firmly on my agenda.
So, when a friend who we were meeting for Sunday lunch mentioned that he was going to be at a flower market in Shoreditch's Arnold Circus, Rochelle Canteen was the first and only destination that sprang to mind.
Whilst Margot Henderson's shrine to seasonal cooking has been open since 2004, we've only ever visited its short-lived outpost at the ICA and her Three Horseshoes Pub in Somerset. Both were excellent.
The OG Rochelle Canteen is hidden on the edge of a picturesque square in the heart of busy Shoreditch. Press the buzzer and a Secret Garden-esque door opens to reveal green courtyard, behind which sits Rochelle Canteen’s vine draped dining room. It's an oasis within an oasis that's a dreamy spot for a sunny Autumnal lunch.
Whilst Margot Henderson's shrine to seasonal cooking has been open since 2004, we've only ever visited its short-lived outpost at the ICA and her Three Horseshoes Pub in Somerset. Both were excellent.
The OG Rochelle Canteen is hidden on the edge of a picturesque square in the heart of busy Shoreditch. Press the buzzer and a Secret Garden-esque door opens to reveal green courtyard, behind which sits Rochelle Canteen’s vine draped dining room. It's an oasis within an oasis that's a dreamy spot for a sunny Autumnal lunch.
The menu reads like any of the Henderson stable with a focus on unembellished seasonal produce, classic flavour combinations and a smattering of offal.
Whilst we wait for our starters to be prepped, a plate of intensely cheesy and short parmesan biscuits (£5) and a bottle of St John Cremant (£50) keep the wolf from the door.
To start, I order one of Rochelle Canteen's signature dishes. A good dollop of light and creamy smoked cod's roe (£10) is paired with peppery radishes and charred sourdough that's ideal for dipping and dredging.
Silky smooth, booze-twanged chicken and rabbit liver parfait (£14) is served by the slab. It's a delight paired with fruity crab apple jelly and more of that lovely sourdough.
Onto mains, and Mrs G keeps it Autumnal with a hearty bowlful of sweet delica squash pieces (£19) that are sat in a bowl of plump brothy chickpeas, robust kale and creamy goats curd.
I've had partridge a few times before and have often found it a little dense and dry. Rochelle Canteen's version (£28) is the best I've eaten - plump, juicy and highly seasoned with a lick of char on its skin. It's served alongside intense roasting juices and bittersweet roast tardivo, a vegetable that I'd like to encounter a lot more often.
Thick and creamy mace spiced bread sauce is giving major dessert vibes. Especially so because it's served in a large bowl and I inevitably start spooning it straight into my gob.
Mrs G always leans towards cheese rather than dessert and on this occasion, a couple of slabs of Westcombe cheddar (£9.50) turn her eye. Earthy and umami, it's delicious paired with homemade oatcakes and a sweet and sour fruit and vegetable chutney.
My slice of tart (£11) has a crisp base and so everything is right with the world. It's filled with nutty frangipane and fragrant plums and served with a good dollop of clotted cream.
It's taken me far too long but I'm very glad to have finally visited Rochelle Canteen. With its technically precise yet hearty cooking served in lush green surrounds, it's a very civilised place to spend a Sunday afternoon.
The Details:
Address - Rochelle Canteen, 16 Playground Gardens, London E2 7FA
Telephone - 020 7729 5667
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