Saturday, 18 November 2023

Chan's Noodle Bar, Cardiff Bay independent restaurant review


Whenever I’m asked to recommend an independent restaurant in Cardiff Bay, it’s always a bit of a head scratcher.

Whilst we’ve visited a few good places over the years, including Zaika, the Duchess of Deli and Yakitori #1 alongside more recent openings such as the Yorkshire Wrap at the Norwegian Church and Tiger Yard’s line-up of street food vendors, it’s still a part of Cardiff which is dominated by the blandest of chains.

So, Chan’s Noodle Bar in the heart of Mermaid Quay is a place which piqued my interest whilst walking past it on one of our regular bird spotting strolls around the Bay.


With its bright and functional dining space, their menu features Chinese takeaway classics, noodle soups, build your own noodle boxes, tray meals and Cantonese roast meats (sadly unavailable during our visit). On the weekday lunchtime we visited the place was full with office workers making the most of their lunch breaks.

There’s a cheap meal to be had as Chan’s meal boxes offer a choice of dishes, boiled rice and broccoli for £8.95 and their noodle boxes weigh in at a similar price point. But, it was their pricier Chan’s specials which sounded the most interesting, with dishes including salted egg yolk king prawn (£12.65), beef brisket and preserved bean curd stew (£12.65), and special pork chops with honey chilli sauce (£10.95).


We ordered a couple of smaller dishes and a pair of Chan’s specials to share and it was a heck of a big lunch.

I was told that crispy duck buns were unavailable after I’d ordered and paid for them and so chose chicken satay buns as an alternative. Strangely enough, the duck buns turned up at our table. A pair of soft and squidgy bao (£7.35) cosseted a classic combination of crisp and tender aromatic duck, cleansing cucumber and spring onion, and sweet and sticky hoi sin sauce. They were very tasty, if a little light on filling.


A quintet of thin-skinned dumplings (£7.35) were filled with tightly packed minced beef. They were pretty good, but slightly one note in their savoury seasoning, and so were elevated by a lovely dipping sauce with a nice balance of chilli, sweet and savoury.


Beef ho fun (£10.95) was the standout of the meal. The colossal portion of thick rice noodles, which were flecked with plentiful pieces of tender beef and crisp beansprouts, had an excellent smoky savouriness from the wok.


King prawn fried rice with XO sauce (£11.95) was just as generously proportioned but less successful on the flavour front. Whilst seven whopping sweet and tender king prawns were delicious they were let down by the fried rice, which was rather bland and almost totally lacking the compelling savoury hit of XO. It’s fortunate we had some chilli sauce leftover to pep the dish up a bit.


Overall, we had a good lunch at Chan’s Noodle Bar that wasn’t without its faults. I’d certainly go back for another bowl of their beef ho fun and would be interested to try some of their more keenly priced meal box options.

The Details:

Address - Chan's Noodle Bar, Unit 20, Mermaid Quay, Cardiff Bay, CF10 5BZ
Web - https://chansnoodle.com/
Telephone - 02920482688

Saturday, 2 September 2023

Queen of Cups, Glastonbury, Middle Eastern restaurant review


With incense wafting from seemingly every other doorway, a disproportionate number of people wearing tie die t-shirts and harem pants, and the local pub playing an early evening trance music set in its back garden, Glastonbury is unlike any other place I’ve visited in the UK.

And it's also fair to say the Queen of Cups is unlike any other restaurant I've visited in the UK. Set in a historic pub and fittingly named after a tarot card, they serve modern Middle Eastern food with a good selection of real ale and Somerset cider to go alongside it.


Co-owned by Ayesha Kalaji, she's a chef who's worked in some top gaffs including London's Bubala and Palomar as well as Anglesey’s Michelin-starred Sosban and The Old Butchers.

I’m here on a tip-off from West Country native Soliciting Flavours, after a semi-successful day of twitching at RSPB Ham Wall. 

A bottle of Pilton sharing cider was both easy drinking and complex, with an almost smoky finish. And at £13 a bottle it was a cheaper alternative to drinking wine.


On the night we visited, specials included kubeb pepper venison cutlets (£22.50) and roasted wild grouse (£30) with mushroom and barberry jus. However, we opted for the Queens feast for two (£32.50 per person) as it took the decision making out of our hands and I assumed it would include some of the restaurant's greatest hits.

Crisp cubes of blushing pink, lightly pickled turnip were a moreish start to the meal.


Frena bread, cooked to order, was absolutely immense. Ethereally soft and light with a delicately crisp and charred exterior, it knocks the socks of most of the trendy loaded flatbreads I've eaten elsewhere recently.


It was the vehicle for a pair of excellent dips - silky and herby hummus spiked with smoked paprika and red shatta (chilli paste), and topped with soft, sweet confit garlic.


Creamy labneh was piled with cleansing cucumber and watermelon to balance its richness as well as a big flavoured three pepper blend.


Hyper crisp grilled Nabulsi cheese was like halloumi on steroids, and its accompaniments were genius - honey studded with a fine dice of Persian lime and a scattering of fresh oregano, both of which brought a wonderful fragrance to the dish.


I wouldn't be surprised if Lebanese spiced potatoes were triple cooked, such was the impressiveness of their shattering crunch. And the seasoning too, a delicate thrum of chilli, a lift of coriander and hit of garlic was indicative of all the cooking at the Queen of Cups with its layers and layers of flavour.


Earthy hibachi grilled merguez sausages were paired with creamy tahini and a good squeeze of lemon juice.


Another standout of the meal was a whopper of a light textured, burnished pine nut kibbeh with a soft fig nestled at its core. It sat on top of a mound of yielding spiced braised beef, a sweet and salty beetroot and feta cream and a vibrant herb salad.


For dessert, a vegan take on muhalibiya delivered luxury in spades. The light and creamy rice flour and coconut milk pudding, with a comforting texture like retro semolina, was scented with tonka bean and orange blossom, and paired with diced fragrant strawberries and peaches as well as a silky smooth blood peach sorbet.


We had a superb meal of flavour-packed Middle Eastern cooking at the Queen of Cups accompanied by excellent cider and first rate friendly service. If I had a tarot reading then I’m sure it would predict another visit in my not too distant future.

The Details:

Address - Queen of Cups, 10-12 Northload Street, Glastonbury, BA6 9JJ
Telephone - 01458 831 255