Saturday, 25 April 2015

Wright's Food Emporium, Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire review

Wright’s Food Emporium, in Llanarthne near the National Botanic Garden of Wales, is the brainchild of restaurateur, broadcaster and writer Simon Wright.

Much like its owner, the café-cum-restaurant-cum-delicatessen is a jack-of-all-trades and master of all.

Service is friendly & slick; the menu is packed with crowd pleasers that take in global influences from Italy to the USA; the décor is trendy yet not contrived; and the produce on offer is a showcase of Wales’ and Britain’s finest – Charcutier Ltd, Coaltown Coffee, Seren Brewing Co and Trealy Farm all appear.

We visited on a sunny Saturday lunchtime, the peak time for Wright’s. Despite arriving at midday to ensure we got a table (groups smaller than 6 can’t reserve at lunch), no one was turned away during our visit. 

With the prospect of an anniversary meal in the evening, we’d planned a light lunch. It didn’t work out that way…

Drinks comprised of a filter coffee and a root beer.

Seemingly every other order processing out of the kitchen was a pork belly cubano (£7.50); perhaps it’s the Chef effect or perhaps it’s because this sandwich's reputation has travelled far and wide.

A soft yet crusty home-baked ciabatta roll was stuffed with golden pork belly, thick cut ham, grated cheese, warming sriracha mayo and richness busting jalapenos and gherkins. Frigging lush. 

The other American-inspired sandwich was a Reuben (£8.50). Toasted white bread was crammed with tender salt beef, sharp sauerkraut, creamy Russian dressing and melted cheese. This was another great sandwich but it would have benefited from being grilled in a little bit less butter to dial the richness down a notch.

For dessert, poached pears and plums (£4.50) were pleasingly spiced and served with whipped cream and a meringue of perfectly poised crunch and chew. 

Meanwhile, a slab of baked sultana cheesecake (£4) was fluffy and well flavoured with nutmeg.

This was a lush lunch and I’d love to work my way through the rest of the menu at Wright’s. It’s just a shame it’s an hour and quarter’s drive from Cardiff.

The Details:

Address - Wright's Food Emporium, Golden Grove Arms, Llanarthne, SA32 8JU
Telephone - 01558 668929

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