Steak of the Art, Cardiff restaurant review

When Pigs Fly – a pork restaurant located in a giant pig-shaped zeppelin.

Devil’s Advocaat – an occult themed bar serving exclusively egg-based cocktails.

I Think Therefore I Spam – if you’re looking for processed meat and philosophical discussion then you've come to the right place.

I could spend all day coming up with ideas for high-concept, pun-based restaurants. But, that’s not why you’re here - you want to know about Steak of the Art, Cardiff’s only steakhouse and art gallery.

 
First to the art - alongside the pictures for sale, Steak of the Art’s interior is a work of art in itself. Colourful, creative and a little bit cheesy, an assortment of themed booths (Doctor Who, rugby and Alice in Wonderland to name a few) make it a very fun place to eat.

Secondly, to the steak - named suppliers, including West Country-based Warson’s farm and Warren’s butchers, show that some thought has been taken in finding decent meat.

A pint of Korev (£4.50) was seriously easy drinking and a strong selection of craft ales from the Bristol Beer Factory were also available.

To start, a whopping meat board (£7) looked the part and generally tasted good, but it was let down by some mediocre elements. Smooth chicken liver parfait was served with onion chutney, a smoked sausage was slightly generic, and olives and capers were excellent. 

Venison & pork salami and potted beef, both of which were mentioned on the menu, were substituted by a couple of generous slices of tender brisket and a disappointing slider comprised solely of a bun and an overdone patty. 

Mrs G’s salad was equally well proportioned (£4)– the rocket, baby tomatoes, red onions, toasted almonds and tangy goats cheese, however, were all let down by a drenching of oily dressing which nullified any freshness. 

Other friends enjoyed their fish boards (£8). Highlights included crisp fish goujons with aioli and a generous mound of smoked mackerel pate, alongside calamari, marinated sardines on toast and whitebait.

For main, I ordered the 200g rib eye (£17). Cooked an accurate medium-rare it had a good depth of flavour and was very tender. Accompanying hand-cut chips were crisp and fluffy whilst a pot of béarnaise (£2) was over-set and lacked a big whack of tarragon. 

Mrs G’s 200g fillet (£20) was also cooked as ordered and enjoyed but it didn’t have the same depth of flavour as the rib eye. Excellent sweet potato fries (£1 supplement) were generous in portion whilst a pot of gremolata (£2) provided a herby hit. 

A few of our friends ordered the Sunday roast option (£10.95). All were highly rated.

A huge short rib of beef was tender and full of flavour.

A slab of pork belly was yielding with a thin layer of crisp crackling. 

Both were accompanied by meaty gravy, al dente green beans and carrot and swede mash. The only let downs were serviceable Yorkshire puddings and roast potatoes which could have both been crisper. 

Desserts were a mixed bag.

Mine was excellent – a light chocolate mousse, paired with a crisp, peanut biscuit base and crumbs, and creamy vanilla ice cream (£5). 

Mrs G’s sweet and sharp lemon posset (£5) could have been delicious if it was properly set. Instead, it was a lemon soup accompanied by a fragrant passion fruit coulis. 

A good Eton mess parfait (£5) comprised of meringue shards, a frozen vanilla parfait, strawberry slices and strawberry coulis. 

Finally, a generously proportioned selection of West country cheeses (£8) was let down by a lack of interest – run of the mill blue, goats, brie, smoked cheddar and crackers. 

With its reasonable prices, huge portion sizes, fun dining space and friendly service, Steak of the Art is a solid addition to Cardiff city centre. I’d certainly go back for a rib eye or Sunday roast.

The Details:

Address - Steak of the Art, Ground Floor, Helmont House, Churchill Way, Cardiff CF10 2HE

Web - http://www.steakoftheart.co.uk/

Telephone - 029 2039 7284