The Marram Grass, Anglesey restaurant review

Located in a former rabbit breeding shed on a rural caravan park in Anglesey, the Marram Grass isn't exactly where you’d expect to find one of Wales’s most acclaimed restaurants.

Chef Owner Ellis Barrie is currently representing the North West in the Great British Menu where he’s been one of this year’s standout contestants due to both his cooking ability and jokey personality.

By coincidence (we booked last September), we visited on the night of Ellis’s end of week judging episode. Apparently the TV was on in the kitchen so I’m sure the team would have been in a celebratory mood as Ellis successfully progressed to finals week.

The funky homespun vibe of the dining room is complimented nicely by a young and friendly serving team and a menu of well-priced dishes with interesting twists.

An amuse bouche of light and airy roasted red pepper espuma was both sweet and savoury. Cubes of rice wine vinegar jelly counterbalanced the sweetness.

A pair of oysters rockefeller (£3 each) saw plump molluscs topped with sourdough breadcrumbs and butter with a massive hit of garlic, parsley and lemon.

Rounds of tangy and creamy goats cheese mousse (£7.50) were coated in a herb crumb and joined by wild garlic puree, a super addictive pistachio puree, pine nuts, mixed seeds, sweet honey and tender asparagus. There was a lot going on in the dish but everything balanced very well. The only minor quibble was that the mousse was a touch on the heavy side.

A whopping bowl of potted crab was of an excellent dollopable consistency. It was packed with brown crab meat and seasoned well with shallot and herbs. A sweet crab claw was a delightful extra treat. Soft bread and a tasty yet somewhat unnecessary block of olive butter completed the dish.

Crisp-skinned and flaky salt cod (£17.50) was served with golden shallots, fresh kale, lightly pickled mussels and a gorgeously buttery sauce fragranced with dill. A clutch of fresh mussels on the side were nice and plump but a bit gritty.

My main was a cornucopia of porky delights (£17.50). Some of the best flavoured, tenderest, crisp-skinned pork I’ve ever had was served with an ace meat sauce, quaver-like crackling, wilted greens and a heroically good walnut puree. An additional bonus of pressed pork shoulder was flavoursome but a touch dry. It was topped with lovely shavings of tart rhubarb and soft butter beans.

A first-rate lemon tart (£7.50) that was crisp of pastry, golden of top and sharp of filling was joined by light Italian meringue, a perfectly smooth lemon sorbet and potent lemon gel.

My dessert was an absolute knockout (£7.50). Sweet and slightly tart confit rhubarb was accompanied by creamy yet tangy yoghurt panna cotta, sweet rhubarb puree and pate de fruit and crunchy honeycomb ice cream and pieces.

The Marram Grass is a restaurant of interesting flavour combinations, skilful technique, generous portions and a relaxed atmosphere. I very highly recommend it.

The Details:

Address - The Marram Grass,White Lodge, Newborough, Anglesey LL61 6RS
Web - https://www.themarramgrass.com/
Telephone - 01248 440 077