Saturday, 25 August 2018

Trullo, London Italian restaurant review

Hoards of people queue for the epic pasta at Borough Market’s Padella on a daily basis.

I’ve even done it myself.

However, from now on I’ll just book a table at Trullo in Highbury instead.

They serve the same glorious pasta from the same team and I was able to bag a reservation on a Saturday lunch just a couple of days in advance.

Alongside their more compact selection of brilliant pasta dishes, Trullo has an extensive menu of antipasti, primi, secondi and desserts. Everything sounds reassuringly simple - there are no spherified chefs’ egos, dirty protest-like smears or scattergun pea shoot garnishes.

We made extensive use of the wines by the glass. Aperol spritz (£8), Barraco Catarratto skin contact white (£10) with a saline citrusiness, seriously neckable Tormaresca Calafuria rose (£6.50) and a soft and fruity Valpantena Torre del Falasco white (£4) were all delicious. 

Complimentary bread was uber-crisp, bronze of crust and served with a bowl of almost sweet olive oil. 

A light antipasti of charred Cornish sardines (£8) were scattered with a fine dice of lemon zest and parsley. This was summery food for a very summery day. 

Trullo’s beef shin ragu (£9) is legendary for a reason. Al dente, slippery egg rich pappardelle were enrobed in a deeply meaty sauce and a generous blanket of savoury parmesan. I’d come back to Trullo time and time again just for this plate. 

Fettuccine (£10) were coated in a barely visible sauce that was packed with the earthy funk of summer girolles and hum of savoury cheese. 

There’s no doubt these two dishes were the highlight of the meal. But, the mains which followed didn’t let the side down. 

A remarkably creamy burrata (£17) had spilt its luxury innards across the plate. It was accompanied by stock rich al dente chickpeas, olive oil and garlic twanged baby courgettes, and a cool pepper salsa which brought an acidic chilli lift to the whole plate. 

A beast of a Tamworth pork chop (£22) contained as much fat as meat. Thankfully, the flub was just as tender and flavoursome as the the flesh itself. The whole thing had a good lick of smoke from the charcoal grill. Accompaniments comprised of a pool of creamy baked borlotti beans and a seriously punchy salsa verde heady with parsley, anchovy and garlic which balanced the richness of the dish beautifully. 

A couple of scoops of salted caramel ice cream (£4) were toasty, salty and creamy in equal measure. This was the good stuff. 

Almond tart (£7.50) comprised of an unfeasibly buttery and warm frangipane and a ludicrously short pastry case. A side of fragrant strawberries and cream brought a summery freshness to the plate. 

It takes a ridiculous amount of confidence and skill to pull off such simple yet flavour packed food. That and first rate ingredients. I highly recommend a visit.

The Details:

Address - Trullo, 300 - 302, St Paul's Road, London, N1 2LH
Telephone - 020 7226 2733

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