Route, Newcastle Quayside restaurant review

*Route is now closed* 

Route on Newcastle’s Quayside is one hell of a good restaurant.

In fact, it’s one of the best meals I ate in 2018.

 
All the signs were there that it was going to be good - from their Michelin Bib Gourmand and the Noble Rot posters adorning the wall to the creative list of wines by the glass and menu of well-priced seasonal small plates.

We gave the wine list a good workout. Highlights included stone fruit laden Sepp Gruner Veltliner, apple twanged Mád Dry Furmint and a cider-like skin contact orange wine. 

 
Everything we ate was delicious, different and exciting.

First rate savoury monegasque anchovies (£4) were drizzled with sherry vinegar. 

Dark crusted and soft crumbed black treacle bread (£2) was smeared with cleverly complex nutty brown butter. 

Salty, smoky whipped cod's roe (£5) sat on top of cubes of cleansing cucumber and was accompanied by a nice selection of crackers. 

 
A snack of brussels sprout fritters (£4.75) could have converted even the most vicious brassica basher. The nutty, slightly bitter sprouts were coated in golden batter and served with a beguiling spicy and smoky harissa mayo. 

A boulder of creamy buratta (£8.50) was paired with the crunch of spiced hazelnuts and seriously intense radicchio leaves poached in red wine. Everything was delicious in combination but the leaves were too potent on their own. 

Spreadably soft and savoury boudin noir (£8.50) was topped with melted cheddar and accompanied by sweet caramelised onions and the richness penetrating fiery hit of 'nduja. It would have been even better with some croutons or toast to provide textural contrast. 

A huge tranche of ray wing (£13.50) was soft and sweet of flesh. It was served with beurre noisette, meaty shrimp, briny capers, sweet raisins and wilted spinach. 

Crisp skinned pieces of meaty bream (£9) and slices of tender salsify were served in a duck liver veloute sauce of such brilliant lightness, savouriness and creaminess that it will live long in the memory. 

A gorgeously plump and caramelised hand dived scallop (£13) was accompanied by fatty smoked eel, sweet and acidic apple sauce, sweet baked onions, and soft and crisp pieces of jerusalem artichoke.

Desserts maintained the exceptionally high standard.

A selection of pristine Neal's Yard Dairy cheeses (£10) included Cropwell Bishop blue stilton, soft Winslade and nutty Lincolnshire Poacher. 

 
A dainty white chocolate panna cotta (£6.50) was uber creamy and wobbly. Cleansing poached pear, a thin layer of pear jelly and the lift of mint were cracking accompaniments. 

Creamy rice pudding (£6.50) was topped with spiced ginger biscuit crumb and a sweet and slightly tart plum compote. 

We had a superb meal at Route. If you like first class wine and food in an informal setting then I seriously recommend a visit.

The Details:

Address - Route, 35 Side, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 3JE
Web - https://routenewcastle.co.uk/
Telephone - 0191 222 0973

Quo Vadis, Soho, London restaurant review

The signature dish.

It draws in the crowds but I wonder if it gets a bit boring hammering out the same plate time and time again?

Take for example the soufflé Suissesse at Le Gavroche, the bone marrow and parsley salad at St John or the beef shin papardelle at Trullo.

Quo Vadis is the home to another of the UK’s most iconic signature dishes - the smoked eel sandwich.

Quo Vadis is a private members club and restaurant in Soho. Headed up by the charismatic Jeremy Lee, the place oozes class. The menu comprises of seasonal British dishes like braised pork cheeks with prunes and red wine (£19.50) or wild duck with damson and elderberry (£10).

Fresh bread was served with thick creamy butter. It was nice and moist but it could have been a touch more robust of crust

To start, I ordered the aforementioned smoked eel sandwich (£9.50). It more than lived up to its reputation. Two dainty slices of buttery toast were stuffed with warm smokey eel pieces, bracing horseradish cream and piquant dijon mustard. Alongside the horseradish and mustard, the punch of pickled onions balanced beautifully the richness of the fish.

Mrs G started with a fragrant salad (£12.50) of tender squid pieces, bitter leaves of puntarelle, citrusy bergamot and briny capers. It received a big thumbs up.

The most apt word to describe my main course is handsome. A bronzed edifice of suet crust (£17.50) was filled with tender shreds of chicken and rabbit, al dente carrots and salty bacon bathed in a well-seasoned gravy.

A minor quibble but it would have been nice if the sauce was a bit thicker to provide a more suitable dip for the bowl of buttery mash and any stray nuggets of pastry.

Anyone with a penchant for haute Nandos should head to Quo Vadis and order their baked marinated coquelet (£18.50). A gorgeously golden bird with tender flesh and crisp skin was coated in a punchy herb marinade.

It was accompanied by a dollop of breath-threateningly good aioli and rustling bronze chips.

Desserts kept up the high standard.

A lovely selection of British cheese (£9.50) saw nutty and savoury Montgomery cheddar and mild and creamy Sparkenhoe Blue joined by quince jelly, fresh grapes and oatcakes.

Exemplary profiteroles (£9) saw a trio of crisp and light choux buns stuffed with smooth ice cream and liberally drenched in rich chocolate sauce.

We had a delicious meal at Quo Vadis. If you’re looking for refined comfort food in the middle of London then I’d recommend it.

The Details:

Address - Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean St, Soho, London W1D 3LL
Web - https://www.quovadissoho.co.uk/
Telephone - 020 7437 9585