Our last visit to the Black Bear in Usk in March 2019 feels like it was a different lifetime ago.
Back then, this Monmouthshire country pub had only recently opened. Owned by a young couple with plenty of experience in top Bristol restaurants like Bar Buvette and Poco, we were very impressed by a concise menu of refined seasonal cooking and a wine list focusing on the natural and biodynamic. I was keen for a revisit ever since.
In June 2021, the Black Bear is buzzing on a sunny Friday evening and it’s almost as if everything is back to normal except for the extra safety measures.
Mrs G spent the night working her way through a trio of lovely wines by the glass (Cava, Verdejo and rosé) whilst I returned to my traditional role of designated driver and enjoyed a glass of zesty homemade lime cordial and soda.
House sourdough had a good chew and was lovely slathered with whipped butter.
We eschewed starters in favour of a quartet of snacks. It was a very wise move.
Top notch Welsh rarebit (£3.75) was topped with a thick ooze of cheese tinged with mustard and beer.
A quartet of golden croquettes (£3.75) exploded with intense cheddar and leeky goodness.
The star of the meal were uber crisp and nutty deep-fried potato skins (£5) which were the perfect shovel for smoked cods roe that was the ideal balance of fish, smoke, cream and salt.
We both had Anton Ego moments during our first mouthfuls; Mrs G reminisced about childhood visits to TGI Fridays and the loaded potato skin starter whilst I recalled packets of Smith’s Jacket crisps from the leisure centre vending machine.
Juicy chicken wings (£4) would have benefited from crisper skin but they were coated in a compelling sticky drizzle of honey.
Things veered a bit off course with our mains.
I ordered the confit pork belly (£18.50), a replacement for a braised beef dish which was being rubbed off the chalkboard when we arrived. I’m not sure whether its last minute substitute role was the cause of its disappointment but a soft skinned piece of pork belly was dominated by flabby fat with just a few mouthfuls of tender flesh.
It’s a shame because its accompaniments were first rate - a golden stack of confit potato made from thinly sliced buttery layers of spud, sweet and soft charred onion segments, a properly meaty sauce and a good dollop of potent mustard. When I explained the issue to our waiter, he was extremely apologetic and graciously deducted my dessert from the bill.
Mrs G’s main was better. Precisely cooked steamed hake (£18.50) was accompanied by more of those excellent confit potatoes and sat in a vegetal watercress puree. But, the billed tarragon was very subtle and the dish would have benefited from a lift of acidity, perhaps a squeeze of citrus.
A side of buttered greens brought lightness to both dishes (£3.75).
Desserts restored order; they were both excellent.
A steamed rhubarb sponge (£6.50) was everything I want in a pud. A soft and light yet pleasingly sturdy sponge with a golden crusted base was topped with fragrant rhubarb compote and bathed in cold vanilla-fragranced custard.
A steamed rhubarb sponge (£6.50) was everything I want in a pud. A soft and light yet pleasingly sturdy sponge with a golden crusted base was topped with fragrant rhubarb compote and bathed in cold vanilla-fragranced custard.
A cracking cheese selection (£9.50) comprised of grassy Hafod, creamy and socky Brefu Bach and savoury-salty Brunswick Blue, accompanied by super-crisp sourdough crackers and spiced sultana chutney.
Despite the main course hiccups, we had a lovely evening at the Black Bear. It’s the kind of place which I’d love to have as my local pub.
The Details:
Address - The Black Bear Inn, Bettws Newydd, Usk NP15 1JN
Telephone - 01873 880701
